Steviewevie

ok, for cars up to April 2000 the a/c wiring schematic is here. For May 2000 to June 2001 it's this one. Sorry, no idea what's changed. If you check your seat belts though, there will be a tag showing when the seat belts were made. Which will give a pretty good idea as to when the car was made.

I've got the TRD front and rear lips taking up space in my lounge, and I really need to get them fitted on my car. After Lexus's ridiculous quotes I decided to check out a couple of local body shops and get prices for painting only (not fitting). First quote was £220 plus VAT, which I thought was not too bad. The second quote though was for £120 plus VAT, think I've found who will be doing the job ! :D

What reason are they giving you for putting up your premium Dan ? Doesn't make a lot of sense. Is that going up now or when you next renew ?

What year is your car Davros ? I can give you links to the relevant wiring diagrams.

Oh are there different types? So except for the current GT-R, has the skyline always just been a model in the range (like the IS for example) with different variations in spec and power? Yeah the Skyline was basically a boring old JDM saloon car. The GT-R came out properly in 1989 (ok yes, if you're a GT-R anorak then I know there was one briefly in Japan in the 70s) with the R32 model, with the twin turbos and 4WD. So yes, there are different variants with different engines/capacities, and normally aspirated/turbo/twin turbo. The R33 and R34 had GT-R variants too. But the R35 onwards are back to less glamorous saloons again, no GT-R. Instead now the GT-R is a separate model, not a Skyline at all, i.e. this one :

Looking great ! :D

Well done, glad to hear you got a successful resolution :D

Welcome, sounds like a great low-mileage example you've got there ! Get some pics posted up so we can admire your new Lex.

I think it'll be between 1993 and 1998, and be RWD. The GT-R is the one with 4WD.

Ah yes of course ! Though you don't necessarily need to take off the Sport Grille or TTE bumper, it depends on how big your hands/arms are and whether you can get down the crash bar without the removal.

Very cool. I do like Skylines How is the clutch for normal driving ?

Sorry, I'm probably missing something but - why ? Is the TTE mesh thicker meaning it's harder to see them ? Or something else ?

Yeah that's Jason's car. How was the show ?

It might be worth a try. As I mentioned before, WIM will do a good job on this. Also, if you haven't had it done already, it would be well worth getting a full geometry setup at WIM, which should stop any premature tyre wear issues (which are very common on the IS200 due to the factory geometry settings being rubbish) and improve handling too. More details on their website here. As part of the geometry setup, WIM's Hunter Hawkeye machine will be able to spot if your suspension is damaged in any way, which could perhaps also produce problems like the one you're describing.

989,425

Sound like you just have to turn up early on the day and sign on, given the info here.

There are a couple on eBay at the moment. You can also buy them from Lexus/Toyota though they're quite expensive.

That looks really good, great work ! Is that a Clarke workbench from MachineMart ? I've got one of those ! :D

Excellent, well done ! :D

As has been said, if it's got vents underneath (like most laptops) then do *not* leave it on a soft surface like a bed, if it's going to be left for any time then leave it on a hard, flat surface so that the vents can work !

Great pics guys ! :D

Could be a sticky caliper. Is there noticeably more brake dust on one side as opposed to the other ? Do you get vibrating or pulling to one side under braking ? Another possibility is the dust cover behind the brake disc catching on it.

Was the auto transmission oil changed regularly (every 20K miles/30K km) ? And using the proper Toyota auto transmission fluid ?

It's very easy to move though, probably quicker than painting !

Yeah the top-loaders can get it too. But with the top-loaders, it's a *lot* easier to take the unit apart and get to the CDs, where you can free them up, which might well solve the problem, at least for the short-term. The bottom-loaders are a nightmare to take apart (and put back together again).