Steviewevie

Can you not just get your existing flywheel skimmed to fix it ? Can you ask the garage who saw it whether they remember its condition and whether they think that's feasible ?

Happy Birthday Andrew ! :D

The problem is that the OEM one is going to cost you a *lot* more than an aftermarket lightweight one, if you get it new. Don't know if you can get a Blueprint OEM-spec flywheel ? Would be worth checking and finding out. Or just get your existing flywheel fixed if that's possible.

I'm looking at a Lexus service schedule which suggests replacing the auto transmission oil every other service. Don't know what country that's from, the interval is specified in km.

His dash doesn't look as nice though, because he doesn't have stainless a/c rings or dash dials !

Opening times are on their website :winky: You would of course need to book.

Chesham in Bucks, link here.

Well, the site that I linked to is selling them. And if you Google, others are too.

See this posting from Tony explaining what he's offering. I would still strongly recommend that you go and visit WIM personally, but at the same time I realise it's a long trip for some (what a great drive back though ! :D ).

If you join as a Gold member, then you can get in touch with Tony at WIM and he will help make sure you can get your car set up to his settings, i.e. liasing with the garage if necessary. This is an extremely generous service by Tony, given that he's doing it for free !

Correction, yes I do have an M5 tap. Well, two, actually.

All you need are some decent HSS metal drill bits, a drill, plus an M5 tap. I will have a look and see if I have an M5 one in my tap set, have a feeling I don't. Though there are several on eBay.

989,394

There is an aerial amplifier built into/next to the OEM roof aerial of the IS200. This needs to be supplied with power, or it won't work and you'll get very bad radio reception. When you plug in your new head unit, you need to get it to supply power to the aerial amp when the head unit is on (no point doing so when it's off). The power feed for the aerial amp runs alongside the actual aerial lead - it'll be pretty obvious, since the aerial lead has a plug on it which you'll insert into the new head unit, and you'll see this other wire attached to it (the power one). So you need to find a lead coming out of your new head unit that can be used to supply this power. It'll probably be labelled, either on the head unit loom, and/or in the manual that comes with it, as something to control the power to an external amp. You just need to splice this wire into the aerial amp power wire, e.g. by using a scotchlock, soldering, whatever.

Supercharger Gord to the rescue again ! :D

I didn't need any kind of aerial adapter for my Pioneer unit, just needed to splice into the aerial amplifier power lead, as usual.

'99 Thanks. Just asking because the wiring diagrams are very slightly different. You really need to do some testing with the multimeter, if you haven't already, as Rabster and I have suggested. If the previous owner really did take out the warning light for this then that sounds really weird, and somewhat suspicious.

Glad to hear you got to the bottom of this Patrik, but sorry to hear it's a bad problem. Hope you manage to get hold of Markus soon, sounds like he needs to sort this out.

Looking here, it seems that those two different part numbers you mention are for the IS200 and IS300 (manual in US) respectively. So it looks like the first one, 45095, is for the IS200. It says 01-03 but I think that's just referring to the dates it was out in the US.

Surely you can't get a short-shifter for the auto ?

Sounds like the silver box is either faulty (less likely in my opinion) or somehow not installed correctly (more likely, at a guess). When you connected it, did you solder the connections ? Or use crimps/scotchlocks ? I'm sure someone else will be able to give you some more useful suggestions.

Try the procedures outlined on page 2 of this document.

Can you check the relay in-place on the board ? i.e. using a multimeter, finding no current coming out of it in the normal situation, then when you turn the fog light switch on, whether anything is coming out of it then ? What year is your car ?

Just to double-check, the fog relay that you swapped, it was the one labelled as number 7 in the passenger side junction box, shown in the diagram below, yes ?

ok, there are two different lights on the dash for that, one for the rear fogs and one for the front fogs. Seems a bit odd that you never had the dash light come on even when the front fogs are working. I know you said you replaced the relay, but are you sure the new one was the correct relay and was working ok ? Have you tried testing to see if there is current passing out of the relay when the front fogs are switched on ? The dash light for the front fogs is on the same circuit as the front fogs themselves, so the fact that it isn't coming on means either (1) the dash light isn't working or (2) nothing is coming out of the relay (for whatever reason). I don't know how you can check the stalk switch, but I would certainly check the relay too. I will see if I can find anything about the stalk switch.