Steviewevie

No, I don't think so, unless the overall tyre diameter changed signficantly enough to change the ride height of the car (it shouldn't do because it would put your speedo way out).

The axle stands that I bought (but hadn't used) a while back have a pretty wide "head". Pic below. In trying these out on the IS200, at the jacking points, the head seems to be too wide, in that the bits supporting the car would be outside where the scissor jack would go, and I doubt the point they're touching would be strong enough not to be damaged. I've seen suggestions (via Google) to use a bit of wood on top of the axle stand, and I guess a small piece of wood with a slot in it could provide a smaller contact area that fits in. However I don't really like the sound of this, since the top of the axle stand isn't that big and I can see that easily slipping. What do others do about this, do you use axle stands with a smaller head that does fit ? Do you use something on top of the axle stand to fit the shape of the lip that the scissor jack fits around ?

Following your recent comment on Sam's thread, Stav, have you got a wideband AFR sensor/gauge ? Or are you planning one ?

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A code starting "P1" will be manufacturer-specific. I can't find what this one means though, sorry :(

Nice work Rob. Good to have an alternative fascia adapter, but that link looks like the regular Autoleads one ?

The units that flash under braking are easy to get from the US. There was a Group Buy a while back for ones that only flash under hard braking, and they're a lot harder to get holder of (I've no idea where you can get them) - however some people have said the problem with these is that the can sometimes flash when going round corners and not braking, due to the fact that they work on accelerometers. The regular flashing ones are here (scroll down about 1/3 of the way).

You don't have uprated ARBs, do you ? Those would make a significant difference, I think. If your geo is out because your car is "too low", then that could make a big difference of course, as you say. Might be worth thinking about some ARBs ?

How do you know it is the bushes that are the problem though ? Genuine question by the way, I'm not saying that you're wrong and it's not the bushes. But over time shock absorbers wear out, tyres lose their grip, geometry settings can drift out and/or be knocked out through incidents, etc.

Thanks Martin ! :D

Re-reading your posting, and checking this versus my own geometry settings, unsuprisingly these are the OEM settings that your garage is using. The WIM settings for front camber would require even *more* adjustment. However, I've got TTE springs (i.e. Eibach) and my front camber is at -0°23' on one side, to give you an example. Before lowering it was at -0°12' ! Although I'm severely lacking in knowledge on this, it still sounds to me like your car is much too low for some reason and that's why it can't be adjusted back into range. The OEM adjusters will only go so far. If you lower the car too much then it'll be impossible to adjust the geometry back into range without the aid of some sort of aftermarket adjusters.

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If you're got a rad problem then you definitely want to get that fixed, you don't want to end up needing a new engine because it overheated ! Perhaps something to do with your front-end damage that wasn't repaired properly ? For the doors, which part exactly, for which door ? You will be able to get a new part from Toyota/Lexus, or of course a breaker's. If the TRC OFF light flashes then that indicates a problem with the TRC system. Given that it's had some front end damage, it might be one of the ABS speed sensors for the front wheels, which can be quite easily damaged. They are located as shown here.

Great news ! :D

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You could try asking at your local motor factors to see if they do aftermarket ones. I had a look on the site for Japarts but they only seem to have the original Lexus part.

Are all the parts in the right-hand table (not the diagram) the same ? If so then it's a pretty good bet that parts are the same. I don't know anything about the Harrier/RX300, but an example from a similar timefame the Altezza/IS200 share a lot of the same parts, including the exhaust system when the engine is the same.

I don't know which engine you've got, so I can't check myself but if you go here and put in the details of your car then you'll be able to access all the parts diagrams. The full part numbers are the ones in the table on the right, not the short codes on the diagram itself.

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How would you do that if you have stainless brake lines ? Just curious, I haven't fitted mine yet but really must get that organised !

Good stuff Marcus, fingers crossed she'll be running soon ! :D

That grinding noise doesn't sound good, I suspect that the flywheel might have been damaged too when your clutch went. An OEM flywheel is very expensive, you'd be better off getting either a used one from a breaker's or a new lightweight aftermarket one. You could get a garage to have a look at it to see if it really is damaged (something that you'd have thought the people changing your clutch would have spotted). Does it only happen when changing gear ? Where does it sound like it's coming from ? The noise when reversing might just be the dust plate on the back of the brake disc catching on the disc. It's a metal plate which you can try bending backwards slightly to see if it helps. Where was the coolant dripping out of the car from, could you tell ? You say the radiator is on its way out, is it from there ? You really don't want a problem where you're running out of coolant, you could soon end up with a damaged engine if it overheats. When you say there was no coolant left at all, where did you look, in the expansion tank or the radiator itself ? Which traction control light is it that's flashing ? Is it the TRC OFF light or the light with the car skidding ? Do you have any other lights, e.g. the engine check light (the one that looks like an engine) ?

Opie Oils sell 5L of 5W30 synthetic Fuchs oil for £20.79 (before club discount !). I got some at an even better price with their Japfest special of £13 ! :D

I don't think it's just screws, no.

If Kwik-fit were trying to con you, why didn't they just say you needed a new exhaust system which they could fit themselves, instead of referring you to your dealer ? I agree that Kwik-fit have a bad reputation for conning people, but I can't see how they were this time. Sure, they made a mistake, but that doesn't even seem like a totally unreasonable mistake in this instance.