ianhu

I assume your ton of time hacking it was spent with it out of the car powered up on a bench? I know multiple changes and reloads of the file in situ would have been a right ballache.

Did you just hack your own file or did you use the one I sent?

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How did it go?

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I think I need the 'lock the Car because the remote isn't near and hasn't been for sometime' feature. Why? Well, I had a lexus is 220d and that had a small pressable button on the door handle and I religiously pressed it when leaving the car. The same can't be said for my actions now. I rarely remember to press the 'so called' button on the door handle of the is300h. This is for one main reason, which I personally think is a design flaw in terms of security. The button on the is300h does not detent and provide feedback when pressed. Sure it may sound the latching of the locks actuating but on a road with heavy constant traffic you'd be lucky to hear it. But there is something about getting positive feedback from a button that depresses. I don't rate the touch here and no feedback (other than the indicators or sound of lock).

 

I think it's like muscle memory, no positive feedback, no remembering to press it.

 

I often go to my car and only then realise I didn't lock the thing. Sometimes all night.

 

I would love lexus to go back to the old style. Personally. But we all know they wont.

 

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You might need someone with techstream to reset the immobiliser code and recode the keys to the ecu.

 

I have techstream but you probably don't live nearby in Yorkshire.

 

Ian

 

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Sorry I should have paid more attention and seen your lines indicating trim.



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The paint code should be in the plate on the door column.

Regards.

Ian

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Thanks Matt.

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To be honest I've given them enough time in the past and can't be giving up the car again for perhaps the same outcome.

I'll be doing the job now. Which I should have done to begin with but didn't want the hassle.

Thanks for the help.

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Hi Silkmen.

Thanks for that info. I sure they told me that they called lexus who said it was located where you said too.

My guess is they didn't look hard enough by the sound of it.

Ian

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I had the same issue with my previous car (IS300h), I removed the amp and sent it off for repair, however the amp wasn't broken. I also took my car to a local car audio specialist and he struggled to diagnose the problem. For no apparent reason it started working again and a few weeks later I sold the car.

May I ask where (exactly) your amp is situated. Mine is a is300h 2013 and the local radio /amp installer outfit couldnt find mine with the car in bit for an entire day. They claim they even called lexus and it was not located on the rear right side either.

So they did half the job of installing new speakers and an amp. They could change the amp because they couldn't find it.

Since I've had the car back I lost the will to route around myself and find it. Any pointers would be welcomed to its actual real location.

Ian.

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My 2014 shows just the indicator light for tpms. But I'm sure the newer models show the individual tyre pressures for each on the dashboard clock. Pity we can't have that upgrade

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You need the mvci driver.





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You would need to get hold of techsteam and a cable which you can obtain on eBay. I think some cable sellers supply techstream with cable but you'd have to check.



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I'm in hull and could do it for you. Where are ya?

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The deal is get the key blanked by some outfit with the capabilty to do so or reseed the key module using a defined process.


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Have you been searching based on your keys code too?

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I bought my car with only one key fob. I already had techstream and a good cable, so bought a new spare key of an eBay seller for £100. Then coded the key to the car using techstream. You probably need to ask the seller that they can confirm the key is virgin since coding an alresdy used key would mean reseeding the key unit altogether and that should be avoided if you can. 

Also your current key will have a code like BG1EW or similar. It is important to match this too when buying.

Regards. 
Ian


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I would certainly think the two clusters are not interchangeable. Hence the errors.

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Glad to hear it does work for most needs then

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TIS(techstream compatible) as it states.

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Mine does, I know because I've done it.

Well the one I had wouldn't.

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BTW the rinky dink vci xhorse clone cable for techstream WILL NOT code keys. For that you need a good proper working cable.

 

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I got mine off an eBay seller for just under £100. And yes a deleted (previously used key on other car) can be coded so long as it has been properly deleted from the vehicle it was associated with prior to you trying to code it.

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You need to buy a virgin key or a key that has been properly deleted from a vehicle.

I bought a key some time back and upon programming it with techstream the key was coded to another car. This must be recognised by the key having some part read that informs the vehicle 'it' is coded to another vehicle. This message pops up at the time of coding. So that key was useless. Unless reseed process was used and I wasn't about to go down that route.

In the end I managed to buy a virgin key and techstream coded it right away with no problems. A thing to note is there will be a code on the label on your current key like 'BC2EQ' or similar. It is important that the key you buy matches this and is of course virgin (not coded to another car) .

Regards

Ian

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The two beeps is the car telling you there is a speed camera ahead beware.

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