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ahmed24

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Everything posted by ahmed24

  1. ahmed24
    Unscrew the end cap on the strut and put the spring with washers on each end. As pictured below
  2. ahmed24
    Thank you 🙂
  3. ahmed24
    Haha that chrome will be deleted at some point 🙂
  4. ahmed24
    Thank you 🙂 Out of action for about a week
  5. ahmed24
    It's been a while since I posted about my mods. I've since done quite a few more mods and thought i would share some pictures of some of these recent mods. It's not everything but the ones that quickly come to mind. I wil update my blog soon with all the mods and possibly have a list of mods on my blog. Right now, my instagram is the most up-to-date with my mods as that's the first place I get round to updating. This is not the end of the mods. I've got a few big ones coming up very soon hopefully by Christmas Please remember mods are all down to personal taste, so it may not appeal to all. Just thought i'd share 😃 The photos below are of the following mods: Blue hybrid power button Leather gear boot and shift knob from 3IS re-stitched in blue Hydrodipped black carbon centre console and window switches Hydrodipped blue carbon: gear knob trim, paddle shifters, steering switchpads and 2 side trims for centre console Flat bottom carbon steering wheel with blue stitching Wrapped interior grab handle gloss black Ambient EL wire blue light on front door cards LED upgrade from green to white, with a few blue ones Hydrodipped centre stack navigation unit in black carbon with custom white decals Pics attached below:
  6. ahmed24
    The sensor's current draw is very minimal. If I remember correctly from the top of my head, the ML amp is powered by 30A fuse (possibly even 2 of them, can't remember as it's been a while). The sensor's current draw is way within the tolerance of the amp. Been running this set up for quite some time and no issues.
  7. ahmed24
    From the ML amp. There is a permanent +12V and ACC +12V all available in the ML amp connectors.
  8. ahmed24
    Thanks 🙂 it's really handy when you have your hands full trying to load the boot. I didn't take too much photos of the process. So not sure if a detailed how-to is coming anytime soon lol. But it's rather straight forward. It work's as follows: The boot release button that we press on the boot-lid is a 2 wire switch. It's ground switched. When you press the button it completes the ground connection. When that switch is presed, the car deals with the logic, it checks to see if fob is present in that outside boot zone and if so then it actually sends power back to the lock actuator to unlock the boot. This is where the kick sensor comes in, the kick sensor is a universal kit, when it detects a kick motion, it completes a ground connection. So all I did was took that connection and tapped it into the ground wire of the boot release switch. So when I approach the car and if ACC is off then the kick sensor is active via the permenant +12v power. If the kick sensor detects a kick motion at this point (regardless of if the key fob is in the zone or not) it will just complete the ground circuit to the boot opening button. The car will see this as someone has pressed the boot button. At that point the car checks to see if fob is in the zone and if so proceeds with unlocking the boot. So, even if kit malfunctions, as long as key fob isn't right next to the boot then it won't unlock. The kick sensor also disables itself when ACC is on. Hope that makes sense Also just to mention, i did this earlier this year and it's been working really well 🙂
  9. ahmed24
    Thought I'd share a quick video of the kick sensor boot opening mod I did a while back. I've done quite a lot of mods since my last post. Will try and update here in the coming weeks. The system works in combination with uprated struts sold by SGS engineering and some medium strength die springs. Here is the video:
  10. ahmed24
    It's a fairly straightforward task. Probably most tricky part is removing door card. Plenty of youtube videos showing how to remove the door card. Once you remove the door card, peel back the film just in the area behind the door handle that you are trying to access (dont rip it as you need to stick the film back) Once you expose the rear end of the handle you will see a torx screw holding the handle. This screw will not fall out if you unscrew it all the way as it has retainer tabs holding it. Then there is similiar screw on the inside of the door (pic below) When you remove the screw on the side of the door, this will allow you to pull the side piece of the handle out. This piece needs to come out so that the main handle can slide out. Oh and also, remember to disconnect the connector for the handle. Hope that helps
  11. ahmed24
    There isn't really much to the door handle itself. take a look at the pic below, the circled area of the handle goes and slots into the actual mechanism that operates the mechanism to actually open the door. If yours is loose and occasionally not opening the door, I would guess something there has gone wrong. Either the grooves are broken or if someone recently did some work maybe it wasn't refitted properly (although the door handle is very hard to mess-up). There is also a screw just by that area that hold it in place and prevents it sliding out. Only way to properly assess the situation is to remove the door-card and inspect it properly.
  12. ahmed24
    These are my original wheels powder-coated in dark Anthracite. Your ones don't look like anthracite to me. Originally they were notorious for the bubbling problem. Lexus swapped them out many times in the 3 year warranty period. Since powder coating it's been in good shape so far and much easier to clean too.
  13. ahmed24
    Thanks 🙂. Bumper I custom built in 2015 https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/99773-20142015-3is-f-sport-bumper-conversion/
  14. ahmed24
    First pic when it was wrapped in white from 2014. The other pics are recent photos with new paint colour
  15. ahmed24
    No, LED DRL headlights lost the AFS functionality to make room for the drl
  16. ahmed24
    Yes 100% possible. I did it back in 2013 and still going strong. Check out my blog post: https://is-250.blogspot.com/2013/08/2012-oem-led-headlights-installation.html
  17. ahmed24
    I think you missed out "metallic" 😀😀
  18. ahmed24
    😂😂😂 Was just about to say the same thing.
  19. ahmed24
    Yes exactly what I had done back then.
  20. ahmed24
    They fit and you DO NOT need any wiring modifications whatsoever. I had these installed on my 2006 IS250. Pictures of my old lights below. I eventually switched over to the VLAND rears. The only modification you need to do is bend back two of the metal tabs on the boot-lid where the light fits. I put a comparison pic of the metal tabs so you can see below
  21. ahmed24
    I've attached the slides from my Instagram story below. Not sure if it's going to show in the correct order though. There is also a video. VID_48550925_221158_216.mp4
  22. ahmed24
    No worries, the 3IS intake isn't aftermarket. It's genuine lexus intake with same sound if not better that comes with all F sport petrol models of the 3rd gen IS. Whereas the fsport metal pipe is an optional accessory for the American market, all explained in my Instagram highlight story. Not sure why you are not able to see it though.
  23. ahmed24
    I did the JoeZ aluminium pipe and modded lower airbox mod back in 2010 here: https://is-250.blogspot.com/p/joe-z-direct-air-flow-intake-d-afi.html. Was very pleased with it. It's essentially the same as the F Sport intake. Recently though I sold the Joe Z pipe and upgraded to the 3IS OEM F-Sport pipe which comes with the new Lexus sound generator. The good thing about this is that it's OEM and comes with FSport models of the 3IS (Non-hybrid) and hence much easier to source. The sound generator is basically a diaphragm positioned stragically to provide intake sound into the cabin. If you are on instagram you can check out my F Sport sound generator highlight story here: https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17965072861322018/
  24. ahmed24
    The 12v logic board I referred to and the one I used is perfect for the job. Subtle lighting on the exterior door handles wouldnt be that difficult, might do that in the near future when I get some time 🙂
  25. ahmed24
    I would just buy two new osrams. Even if I bought OEM, I would personally replace both as a pair because the colour won't match as the other bulb would have aged.
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