ahmed24

100% stick to denso, I've heard horror stories of unbranded junk. The problem is that the amount of work involved changing the alternator you don't want to have to do the job again anytime soon. So play it safe stick with denso

If it is the alternator it could be the bearings on their way out. The denso part is DAN1354 That's the one I installed on my car.

What's the mileage on the car? How long have you owned it and does it still have original alternator? Ive heard a few alternators sound like this as they were going bad and those didn't show voltage issues.

Genuine Toyota 75w85 gear oil and a new washer for the drain plug. The gear oil is sold in 1L bottles so you most probably need to buy 2x 1L bottles but then that 1L extra bottle will last you 5 services along with a 1L bottle if that makes sense. So first time buy 2x 1L and you will have 0.8L left from that bottle which you can use 4 more times accompanying a 1L bottle.

Ahh that's good to know thanks for clarifying

Oh, in that case I'll look into it. Can someone with the gsf send me a close-up pic of their door courtesy light unit please? If anyone confident enough to pop it out and take pic of the unit itself that will be even better 🙂

Well said there. It's such a simple maintenance task too. doesn't need much time either. Key is to make sure car is on level ground and always remove the refill plug before drain plug just incase there is any issues afterwards removing the refill plug. Always replace the washer too.

Does it not come with genuine ones already? as mentioned here:

I designed the logo in Illustrator as a vectorised logo, it then needs to be printed onto a glass lens. There are two types of lens it can be printed on, either glass or a film. The film is terrible quality and distorts and reduces light output. For high quality the logo needs to be on glass. So I have it printed on glass. The glass lens isn't necessarily a direct fit into the lens that you may have from another unit, specially if it's going into a film lens. So instead I get a complete new lens supplied to match the glass. But the LED light aspect of it all remains the same.

Oh yes that too. How did I forget that lol

The basics you could check yourself without getting under the car: Wiper blades - make sure when spraying washer fluid that it clears the windscreen (make sure washer fluid is topped up too) Check windscreen washer nozzles - often if washer fluid isn't used enough the nozzles can get clogged with dirt. Headlight washer jets - if you have Xenon lights, make sure headlight washer jets are spraying brake fluid - check level and condition, make sure colour is closer to clear not dark check all the lights - parking lights, indicators, main beams, high beams, brake lights, fog lights, numberplate lights check number plates aren't damaged and are within legal specs make sure no check engine light or errors on the dashboard check tyre tread and pressure and inspect for any tears or screws or nails check seat belts check horn is functional inspect windscreen for any damage to the drivers area if you can look under the car: inspect the suspension components like tie rods and the rubber boots to make sure there aren't any tears on the rubber dust boots check exhaust for any holes/leaks (although most of the time holes will manifest itself in the form of a loud droning sound) make sure no loose or dangling components like exhaust etc. Those are some of the things that come to mind quickly that I usually do before an MOT

Thank you 🙂

Just thought i'd share a few pics and a video demo of some custom logo door projectors I made. I made a few to test out and sold out so seems to be a hit 🙂But it may not be to everyones taste 🙂

It's not really a facelift, it's more of a conversion from 2nd gen to 3rd gen. I did it back 2015 but I made the bumper myself by fusing a section of old bumper to the new. At that time the chinese didn't make a mold for it. After a few years the chinese sellers had made a mold and started mass producing it. Strangly some of the chinese sellers actually have pictures of my car in their catalogue listing. It's a bit misleading as that's not their product but hey it's the chinese they show one pic and sell another. A few pics of the chinese listing showing my car in their listing followed by the actual photo of my car that they took from google photos lol. I've also attached a new photo since my car is now UltraSonic Blue.

You are correct, upgrading only one side to a higher force rating goes completely against rules of physics there is no balance. The better solution is to either upgrade both struts to create a balance or to just re-gas existing OEM struts to a higher Nm of force. A few people I know on Instagram have put the single BMW struts on and have removed it after a while because it was letting water into the boot.

I believe the stock OEM brakes are also led but much higher power ones compared to the aftermarket ones. For these to trigger a brake circuit fault means the LEDs are not as high power. I have the vlands and either the vlands have inbuilt load resistors or higher power LEDs because the vlands don't have this issue

Lexus and Toyota lights are not monitored by the CANBUS like european cars. Lexus / Toyota use the BEAN network which is a branch of the CANBUS that is connected via the gateway controller. I've spent the past year reverse-engineering the CANBUS on the 2IS and 3IS because of a project I am working on and I would say I know it quite well now. There are exceptions to this like the brake light is monitored but it's monitored to see how much current is being drawn. Hence why the Brake fault shows up without any engine management light. I have had a few people message me on my Instagram about the HC Motion lights doing exactly that and HC motion themselves have acknowledged that a load resistor needs to be added to fool the ECU into thinking the correct current is being drawn.

I've got similar but made my own F design ones. Pictures below.

Nope they only go based on what is available on their screen. The FCC IDs are not listed in their catalogue only part numbers and part numbers are only printed on the packaging. These same technical people have told me so many things aren't possible when in fact it is. They can only advise on things that are designed to work within the specifications they have documentation for.

Fair point, just to clarify these numbers are not specific to one individual vehicle so not really a security issue. For example all LS460's in that date range should have the same code. Therefore, members sharing this information are only sharing an FCC ID which is used across many vehicles. I need this just to cross reference the ls460 keys to other models. Unfortunately they don't print part numbers on the keys so these are the next best thing.

Anyone with a LS460 or 460L 2006 to 2012 able to kindly share the numbers printed at the back of their key fobs please? It may start with 14 followed by 3 letters. If anyone has a smart key card that will be even better if you could kindly share the code of the smart key card. Thank you 😀

Thank you 🙂 Below are some photos of the steering wheel. The steering wheel area is still not complete as i'm planning to re-trim the airbag in leather with blue stitching and the airbag/horn logo embossed. Will be posting about that once i've done it. I will be slitting the leather from the rear along the break points for the airbag deployment.

A few more pics below I took with my DSLR 🙂

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/130466-kick-sensor-boot-opening SGS also offer a service where you can send off your OEM struts to them and have them regassed and uprated. Updating the OEM ones to 380-400nM should easily take care of auto opening.

Here is a quick video demo i made of the ambient door light when I was doing the installation