ahmed24

Well I'm very confident with electonics. Plus it's not really ripping the satnav out itself, it's just the PCB board on the frame that controls the climate. Plus the frames can be purchased separately even in the even something goes wrong. I've gone and always go for the range topping spec. On some aftermarket brands it goes upto 8GB ram version but the Teyes CC3 goes to 6GB RAM and 128GB storage with a Quad-Core processor and DSP. The lower spec units will not have wireless CarPlay and AndroidAuto on them. I can confirm that the 6GB version has wireless AndroidAuto and wireless Apple CarPlay. What I like about it he Teyes compared to some of the other cheaper Chinese replicas is that the software on the Teyes is so much better. The entire UI including settings and all hidden menus have all been branded and customised to the Teyes theme. I've installed a good number of replica Chinese units for many different Lexus and non Lexus models and what I found in those was that the software and UI is very inconsistent.

I already had factory ML satnav and the full package too but was getting bored of the screen and camera quality and most importantly the resistive touch. Once you start using apple CarPlay or AndroidAuto, it's hard to live without it 🙂

The screen is a whole lot bigger than OEM screen. OEM screen is 7inch, this is just over 9inches. They've managed to fit a big screen in by reducing all the button sizes which look way better in my opinion. Now that I look at the OEM one the buttons look so bulky. I have been really busy lately and haven't 100% finished up my installation. Once I do, I will create a dedicate thread on the Teyes CC3. Below are some pics of how it looks. I am upgrading to the facelift airvent too. I chose the 9inch unit mainly because I wasn't keen on the aftermarket look of the 10inch frame. The 9inch frame maintains that OEM look. Plus speaking to Teyes engineer one WhatsApp, he said that the 10inch frame version is only compatible with cars with no factory navigation. The steering wheel buttons work perfectly. As for microphone, you can de-pin and use OEM microphone but since I previously had a grom unit installed and I had installed aftermarket mic in the OEM location behind the dome light, i just kept that. In regards to reverse camera, the 2006 to 2009 i believe you need to de-pin the wire to get it hooked up but 2010 onwards it's just a matter of connecting a connector if you want the factory camera. Even if camera worked, I wasn't planning to keep OEM camera as the quality was something i always hated. So i've installed a AHD 1080p camera. Picture attached below. Another thing, I completely dismantled the PCB's from the fascia and upgraded all the LED's to white and blue to match my previous setup. I also hydrodipped the frame to match my previous setup. One thing to note is that the frame itself is made by one company and used by Teyes and many of the other head units. The Passener and Driver temperature buttons are in the LHD orientation. I spoke to the manufacturer of the frame itself regarding whether it was possible to get RHD version and they said it's not possible due to it being mass produced and they don't have enough sales in RHD market. At first I thought I can live with it but then it started annoying me because once you set steering location as Right in the head unit settings then it gets even more annoying because you press the temperature button on the left for driver but the display changes on the right. So in other words the software shows the correct way round but the button is wrong way round and it messes with your head lol. So I set out to fix this. I reverse engineered the PCB board and figured just like how lexus do most other things, the temperature controls are based on resistance values measured by the button presses. So I was able to swap around 2 pairs (4 total) SMD resistors and the problem was fixed. Now I have the temperature buttons working correct way round. I will be sticking the temperature decals on soon. I've also recorded a quick video demo showing the climate controls working right way round. Here is the vide demo:

That is correct, I recently got a Teyes CC3. Haven't finalised my installation yet but will post details once I do. But on the whole it's a very good kit and works perfectly with factory navigation system. Teyes support is fantastic, you have WhatsApp numbers for multiple Teyes Engineers. If buying to replace an OEM satnav screen then the official working kit is the 9" one that I got. It comes in two variants, the Model A and Model B. Model B is for my car which is the 2006-2009 version and Model A is for the newer navigation units. If your car doesn't have factory satnav, then you need the Teyes CC3 10" version which looks similiar to the XTRONS unit mentioned in this thread. Below is just a quick picture comparing my OEM screen to my new Teyes CC3 screen. This is before I hydrodip and upgrade the LED's on the new unit.

The expansion overflow bottle should not be empty. This is what is causing air to enter your system. Top-up to near the full mark with pink super long life coolant when cold and then monitor the situation over a few long drives. If there is air in the system you can burp them. Hopefully you don't have an airlock anywhere. If there's not much air in the system then the overflow expansion bottle should always be at a consistent level. When engine cools the coolant shrinks and the volume of coolant in the blocks reduces and hence it sucks from the overflow bottle. If overflow bottle is low then it will just suck air in.

Standard OEM unit with Grom Vline VL2 interface with wireless Android Auto connected to my phone. Has Wireless Apple CarPlay too.

It is quite a bit of work but very worth it 🙂 It's probably one the most popular mods. I've helped 30+ people on instagram complete this mod. By far the most popular mod. Thank you. Still not finished, lots more coming. A few more pics of my interior below which includes my most recent 2021 start button. I've also share a few photos below from another car I did the 3is shifter mod, airbag and hydrodip in orange theme.

Thank you 🙂 The grey one below is when this design was introduced for the LC and with the LC hybrid they made the blue one. Which then started to be introduced in other models like the 2020+ UX and RX. A friend of mine wants to get the grey one for his ISF. Unfortunately in the UK almost all the newer models of the lexuses are all hybrid so finding a second hand non-hybrid version button from a 2020+ car is going to be practically impossible. The only option for second-hand would be to import from America as they have plenty of non-hybrid variants still going. There are two ways to approach it, one is to build a harness to convert the existing wiring connector to work with this. But instead what I did is dismantled a spare 2IS button completely and used the entire core of that button and just transferred over the button and outer bezel from the new button. Unfortunately it's not a straight fit and requires a lot of hacking and modifying of the white plastic frame that holds the button. But once complete you are left with a new style button on a OEM switch making the entire thing plug and play and OEM looking.

Thank you bro 🙂 still lots more planned

Ever since I saw the concave design of the newest style start buttons, i've been on a mission looking for it secondhand. I prefer the hybrid blue version as the colour on that is really nice and goes with my blue theme. I really like the amount of depth the new design button has. It's really hard to find these buttons second hand as they are very new. The non-hybrid version is silver in colour and also looks really nice. I was lucky enough to be able to source 2 second hand hybrid ones from Lithuania for just under £50 GBP and with a very light polish made them look brand new. Unfortunately the buttons are not direct plug and play. The new design button has completely different connector and number of pins. The PCB design is also different. So, since I really wanted this, I set out to convert my 2is button and below are some pics of my end product that I wanted to share. There is also a video demo which shows the backlight and colour sequence. Really pleased with how it turned out. Button looks, feels and works exactly like OEM

Yes painting chrome isn't a straight forward process, the proper way is to de-chrome it by stripping the chrome coating. I've done it on a few parts. The aftermarket gloss black bezels i've seen are mainly for the 2006-2009. But i've seen a few for the facelift model. I will try and dig out the link. £30 to wrap it isn't bad as long as it's wrapped properly

Depending on your budget. You can get the grille bezel in black these days from aftermarket suppliers. But if you are on low budget then definately wrapping it would be my preferred option. I've wrapped the grille bezel for at least 6 people and comes out really good. Ofcourse gloss black wrap will never have the shine as paint and will have a little amount of orange peel effect. Other option is to wrap it in satin black then it looks perfect.

I got my hands on a set of 19" ISF wheels. So I figured seeing as i'm going to be putting new rubbers on I would install a Android based TPMS system to hook up to my factory navigation screen via my Grom VLine2. It works with any android based system. I purchased the version of the sensors that have a removable body cover on the sensor sealed by a gasket to be able to change the battery. The non-changable battery versions are cheaper seeing as they are completely sealed. I didn't want to be changing sensors when battery died. So instead opted for these. The TPMS sensor itself screws itself into the inside of the valve stem. I bought the kit for £45 and also purchased enough gaskets and replacement valve stems to last a lifetime. Some may be thinking, what's the point. Isn't it just pointless and more headache maintaining the valves and sensors. The only inconvenience I see is probably at the time of a tyre change, I just have to make sure the tyre shop knows about the sensor and I have enough new stems and service kits anyway. But the benefits are way more. I can now be lazy and just check the pressure from the screen 🙂. Gone are the days where I have to visually look then if it looks odd then get the gauge out to measure pressure. The sensors are designed to save battery and therefore the way they work is as follows: If sensor does not detect movement for 10-15mins, it will enter a sleep mode. At this time the sensor is saving maximum battery power. It will only wake-up again when either it detects movement or if pressure drops below 2 or 3 psi from last value. I've posted some pics below (note: my pressure readings are a bit high because that's after a long drive)

Here are some more photos I took today and a few pics of some I made for other people. I will post photos of the other people's ones once they are installed.

I've taken all extra measures to make sure it will deploy as correctly as possible 🙂 like i mentioned in my original post that even if it deploys correclty, it's all about timing. If the timing is way off then it will effect it's effectiveness. But I have take measures to make sure the timing is minimally effected as possible by allowing the breaking points to snap easily 🙂 I'm making a few more for some of my IG followers including a 3IS one soon. Will post photos once they are installed 🙂

Thank you 🙂 Heated steering wheel is something you would do before wrapping the new leather over. I don't think it's something i would do at present because my steering is pretty much complete now lol. I dont see it being a hard thing to do before installing a new leather wrap over it 🙂

Thank you. Im really pleased with how it turned out. Completely transforms the look 🙂

Thought I'd share some photos of my new leather Airbag project. Leather trimming airbag covers seems to have become a trend. Rightly so, it adds a touch of luxury in my opinion. There are quite a few Instagram sellers selling them. But I decided to make my own as I could not justify the cost of some of these. Before I go on, some key safety issues and concerns need to be mentioned. Trimming airbag covers is a controversial topic. Mainly because you are essentially adding an extra layer in the way that the airbag has to break-out of. Just because an airbag blows and splits the leather open, it doesn't mean it works properly. Sure, it's great that the airbag does that but, as with most things, timing is everything. Trimmers often make comments like don't worry, nothing can hold back that explosion or I've tested it myself on spare part and the leather splits up, no problem. Some will even show you video demos of a controlled airbag deployment which shows the airbag splitting. This misleads people into thinking that just because an airbag blows, it will work as designed by manufacturer. The fact is, airbag charges are designed to coincide with the movement of a human body within a crash condition. The charge is timed so that the airbag is fully inflated at the very instant before a body comes in contact with it. Too early, and the bag vents out leaving less cushion for an impact; too late, and the body is already in its path and gets slammed with the full force of the explosion. To illustrate the point about timing being everything, I've linked a video below to watch. It shows two scenarios of a watermelon dropping on an airbag. Firstly as it inflates on-time, and secondly when it's just seven hundredth of a second too late.

Thank you 😀 The graphics I designed and had printed as decals then applied them just before the clear coat layer sealing the graphics inside.

The 3.5 aux to Bluetooth mod I did was a while back. Around that time I also had installed a multimedia interface unit which gave me AV input and output functionality to my satnav screen. I used this interface to mirror my phone using an AV cable. This was a while back. I have since replaced that setup with a Grom VLine2 which is a much better seamless solution with Apple CarPlay and AndroidAuto. It's not a cheap piece of kit though unfortunately.

Most welcome 🙂

You need the LED like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-5mm-LED-Bi-Colour-Red-Blue-Water-Clear-Common-Cathode-3-pin-/362616313143 Main thing is that it's a 5mm led with a common cathode. I did this a while back some pics below. I find it odd that by default hot is red and cold is green even though the colour of the text is red and blue.

Oh didn't realise you weren't from the UK 🤭

If you do need to buy the denso alternator. Go over to opieoils website and fill in the price match guarantee and put the details of this website in https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/denso-alternator-dan1354 They usually match or beat the price.