ahmed24

I do not actually have any adaptors that give 12v that i can possibly test it with. Is this maplin one more or less going to do the same thing as the ebay one: http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Module...&doy=search If so then i can save £3 quid as maplins is next to me :P

Thanks for your reply Geoffers. I think maybe the inverter option would probably have to be last resort as I really do not want to have to store an inverter in the car. Anyway, I am thinking of getting that DC-DC converter but just thinking it will end up taking over 2weeks to come as it is from China. Could you advise me if the following one would be ok instead: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=200201048852 This one is from UK so hopefully I can get it sooner

any suggestions? should i try getting that eBay DC-DC converter and try to maybe regulate a lower voltage to the device?

ok i've done the voltage test on both the car and the mains adaptor. from the car as soon as I start the car i get 13.9/14v and it fluctuates constantly between 13.9 and 14. If i rev the engine in the car then i sometimes get a much lower output and it went down to as low as 12.6. But if I am not reving then i get this 13.9/14 fluctuation. On the other hand on my Mains power adaptor, as soon as i plug it in i get a reading of 13.6V and it very very slowly climbs up to about 13.8 and sometimes goes to 13.9 but back down to 13.8. But the changes on the mains adaptor is much more slow and gradual. Any suggestions guys? I know it is most definately the faulty monitor, but i want to try and somehow sort the problem by purchasing small circuit or whatever is needed at a cheaper price rather than having to replace my headrest set which is rather expensive. Really appreciate all the help. Thank you.

Just wondering if after running voltage tests i realise that the cars power fluctuates alot compared to the mains adaptor, then could i maybe get something like the following DC-DC converter to try and regulate the power before supplying it to the headrest? eBay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Way-3-Amps-Step-Down...1QQcmdZViewItem

Hi cholah, Thanks for your reply. I do not think it is actually related to the input because my screen actually also does the same thing even if i do not have any input source. If i put it to an input source that hasnt got input, it says No Signal and then does exactly the same thing over and over again. So therefore it doesnt matter where the input source is coming from. Plus it happens even if the car is not moving

oh, i'll post the results of voltage test later this evening. hopefully that might help a little to diagnose problem.

I am just wondering, would it be possible to maybe buy some sort of additional power regulator circuit and then hook up the power from the car thats coming to the headrest to this circuit and have the circuit regulate the power (e.g. get the circuit to produce exactly the same results as my mains adaptor does) and the from this circuit provide power back to the headrest. This way the headrest will get a steady and regulated power.

Geoffers, thanks for your reply. From what I can make of it so far, it seems like maybe its overvoltage or possibly the diry power thing about fluctuations in power. The mains adaptor that i have has a label on it that says that the output is 10 point something Volts DC and 1.2A. This is why I am thinking maybe it is issue with overvoltage because the car gives me 12v and above. I will run a test on my Mains adaptor later today and see if the power on that flactuates and will also do the same with the power from the cigarette socket. Will post results today. Also in regards to the dirty power issue. I suppose the test should make it clear if car power is fluctating compared to mains power. If power is fluctuating, how can I bring it in line to provide a stable power to the headrest? Oh and I am not sure if it is an Eonon monitor as it doesnt even seem to have a brand name on the box or anywhere in the usermanual nor the unit. Its just refered to as a 9" TFT monitor. thank you all very much for your assistance in this. very much appreciated

Oh ok then. I will test the voltage output from my Cigarette Socket when i get home after work today and will also test the Mains adaptors Voltage output and post it here.

So, should I try to run the monitor with the engine off then? If i remember correctly the Main adaptor label says that output is 10 point something Volts DC and 1.2Amps. But if i remember correctly when i tested the output of the adaptor I did use to get around 11 point something Volts DC.

thanks for your replies. firstly, when i tried swapping to the other headrests wiring i did also swap the regulator but it still does the same thing. when i tried it with the mains adaptor, it was also going through the regulator. The monitor actually only has one big cable coming out of it with a connector similiar to a S-Video connector, and the other side of the cable that comes from the regulator actually comes and connects to this connector. John, when you say measure voltage at the connector, which connector are we talking about? connector from Cigarette Socket? i will measure the voltage that the Cigarette Socket gives me and also compare it to the voltage that my Mains socket adaptor gives me. Will post back results when i get home. Oh and in regards to whether it is happening with engine on and off. I havent really tried it with engine off and on ACC. I have only tried it with the engine on. To try it with the engine off would mean I will need to run power with engine off for more than 5minutes, is that ok to do?

All the connections seem to be fine and they have all been soldered. I have also tried from different locations for the ground but still gives same problem. I also tried to use the connector from the working headrest with the faulty one and still the same problem. It seems to be coming only from that headrest. any other possibilities? should I change the 1.5A fuse to something even lower maybe?

Hello everyone. I am having a rather strange problem with one of my TFT headrest monitors. I have two headrest monitors on my Lexus IS250. Each of the monitor has a small sort of power regulating circuit board with a 2A transparant fuse. The monitors have been hardwired into the Cigarette Socket, and according to my lexus owners manual, the Cigarette Socket has a 15A fuse. The problem is as follows: After starting up the monitors the one with the problem seems to work for around 5minutes or so and then just completely goes white with vertical lines. The other one however doesnt do that. I have tried to run just one at a time also tried both at the same time with no Luck. Once i get this white screen I have to either press the power button and power the screen off and back on or I have to press input source button to switch to the second input source and then come back to the input source. After this it works for a very little while and does the same thing over and over again. I then tried to power the screen with a AC to DC adaptor that I have which provides 12V supply with 1.2A. When I run it of this plug it seems to run perfectly fine. But however if i plug it back into the car's supply it does the same thing over and over again. I replaced the 2A fuse that the small power regulator has with a 1.5A fuse but it still does the same thing. Can anyone please advise me on possible solutions. I do not want to have to replace the screen as it is not under warranty or anything, bought it off eBay. Would really appreciate any help Thank you

delexus, if you want to hack your nav to enable DVD playback,Phonebook,MP3 folder when moving then i can tell u how i did mine.

The unit is just a video converter that allows adding two video and audio sources to factory navigation system. It comes with vehicle specific harness that eliminates the need for cutting or making any kind of modification to factory setup. I've also got myself a incar DVB-T tuner to plug into one of the input sources that will allow me to watch freeview tv on the screen. The other input source will be left empty for now. From this unit i will also take the RCA cables to the headrests. In regards to unlocking the phone/sat nav etc.. its a seperate hack

that is how the IS is. If you look on the user manual it indicates that you must have it set to either left or right. If its in the middle the auto-dip wont work

got the module, just waiting for the DVB-T unit to arrive

hello everyone. i have just purchased two headrest monitors for my IS250. I need some advice on how I can run the wires without damaging anything and leaving any wires visible in anyway. Basically I need to run 2 RCA cables from the back of my NAV UNIT (which i know how to open and get access to) The two RCA cables need to go to the headrests (1 RCA cable per seat) and the other thing is that the headrest require power that has a ciggerette lighter plug. I am thinking of cutting the wire of them and joining them into one single plug and maybe plugging it into the power thats available in the armrest unit that has Aux and Power. Can anyone please advise me on how I can run these wires. I'm assuming that i should be able push the wires down the seat and make it come out underneath, but what do i do from there? thank you.

Thanks alot Mincey. So it must be something that Lexus have done? speically seen as your one is fitted quite tight. With mine I noticed that the entire plastic "cover" under the steering wheel area is totally lose. Strange thing is that i couldnt see where it clipped anywhere. There are a few screws and things but they all seem to be in place. If you look at your second pic, you see on the right hand side of that pic there is a big white area which for a moment looked to me like a fusebox or something. When i actually push my plasic cover up to that it feels like it can go and sit in there but it just doesnt hold. It comes straight down again. I'm wondering if there is an easy fix to this or do I have to book it in to Lexus again?

anyone?

Thanks for that info Matus. I managed to open the side panel and checked. theres not really much at the back and on top of the shade button except some wires but they seem quite high enough but I suppose there may be a chance that it could be that, so I might get some sound proofing sponge and stuff some in there to see if it helps. I did however notice something else that seems really strange to me and I would appreciate if you guys can look at your IS 250 and see if you have the similar issue. Basically there is a plastic cover thats just above the pedals which covers the OBD II interface and things. That plastic cover on my car just seems to be very loose and its something that you can wobble about alot. Is this normal or have Lexus messed something up during the rattle fix? Would appreciate all your input many thanks in advance

Just wondering if anyone else has modified their sat nav screen with an extra A/V input? I have an IS 250 SE-L multimedia with the reverse cam and things. I've just purchased the Conversion kit that will add an extra input source for A/V and I will be adding a freeview box in the glovebox that will link to it so i can watch freeview tv. Just wondering if anyone else has done this yet?

thanks i'll give that a try. do i have to use anything to pop the side cover out or anything or is the hand sufficient?

I got my car back from Lexus dealer after a service and had them sort out all the vibrations and rattles. There were alot of vibrations specially when engine cold. These vibrations and rattles have now been rectified. The car was with lexus for a week, they had to take out the dash and things. However, it seems to have developed a new rattle thats really weired, and I'm wondering if anyone can help. Basically when i drive over rough roads i get a really bad rattle that always sounds like its coming from my door compartment. In the begining i thought it was because i had a few things in there, but after taking them all out it still exists. Only now I have actually identified that the noise is not actually coming from the door. The noise seems to be coming from just under the where the Shade and other switches are. When this rattling noise happens, if I actually hold the dash just under the switches pressed upwards towards the switches, the noise disappears until i let go. I'm suspecting it might be some wires or something. Can anyone please tell me if there is any easy way to get acess to behind those switches and just underneath the switches? Many thanks for all your help