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Everything posted by ahmed24
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Hi Julian, Apologies for the late reply. I'm not on here as frequently as i'd like to be as i'm usually inundated with messages on Instagram so do try and catchup when I can. In regards to your question regarding the KEY1 and KEY2. Your understanding is correct that KEY1 and KEY2 require an analogue voltage. However, you are mistaken about the steering wheel switches being CANBUS controlled on the Lexus. I've worked on many Lexus models even some newer models as new as 2023 and Lexus/Toyota use analogue voltage for a huge number of functions. I have attached two diagrams below showing the wiring schematics of the steering switchpad for both the pre-HDD 2006 to late 2009 model and also the later model with the HDD and USB function. If, you look at these diagrams you will see that the steering wheel buttons are tied into 3 wires. A common ground, and SW1 and SW2. The switches are grouped into 2 groups. One group has the Voice, Off Hook, On Hook and MODE buttons tied to them and the other group is the remaining buttons (excluding the DISP button as that is directly wired to the cluster) Each button in a group goes a resistor to essentially create a different voltage readings which is then detected by the head unit. So in the case of the Teyes mod, all I did is take the single wire for the group that contains the Voice button and wire it directly to KEY1 on the Teyes unit. Then this let me customise the button mapping via the steering control app. I left the other group alone as the default Teyes pre-coded mappings for that is fine anyway. One thing to keep in mind is that I did not modify the wire for that group on the actual car harness, instead I located the wire/pin then traced that those steering switch wires go to the CANBUS decoder box on the teyes. So, the wire that i was interested in I cut it on the Teyes harness before it goes to the canbus box and I took it directly to KEY1. Hope that makes sense. Below are the schematic diagrams.
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Electric power tailgate retrofitted on 3IS
ahmed24 replied to ahmed24's topic in Lexus IS 300h / IS 250 / IS 200t Club
Yeh that torsion spring system when I saw it I was surprised at how cheap it was. In their defence, they could have possibly done it to create more boot space so they don’t have to leave a void for gas struts in the carpet lining. Considering the boot space is being consumed by the battery, maybe they felt they need to save space elsewhere -
Electric power tailgate retrofitted on 3IS
ahmed24 replied to ahmed24's topic in Lexus IS 300h / IS 250 / IS 200t Club
I’ve worked on a few is300h’s and seems like some areas Lexus have done some cost saving shortcuts lol. The boot being one. The torsion springs just look like metal washing rails. Absolutely cheap and pathetic in my opinion. Does not provide any luxury feeling. At least they should have put gas struts. The customer I did this for really hated the boot on his 3is and often has to slam it closed. Now it’s exactly how it should be 😎 also find it strange how they only add memory seats for driver on the 3is when they 2IS has it for passenger too 🤔 -
Electric power tailgate retrofitted on 3IS
ahmed24 replied to ahmed24's topic in Lexus IS 300h / IS 250 / IS 200t Club
Unfortunately i did not document it as it was quite a time consuming and involved job. It involves removing the old metal springs then mounting ball joint mounting bolts in perfectly symmetrical locations by drilling. Then wiring it all up. Wiring up involves mounting the control ECU. From that you have the main battery fuses connection and ground. You then have combination of different harnesses going to different locations like lock actuator, softclose pulling mechanism, lock switch, buzzer and internal switch in the boot. I will add a kick sensor to the setup as the owner hasn’t received the universal kick sensor yet. -
The 3IS seems to come with some spring system for the tailgate which is not as well refined as having a gas strut. A 3IS owner wanted to retrofit power electric tailgate on his 3IS. I’ve completed the project and the results are amazing. So thought I’d share a video demo showing the finishing result. All the buttons work. The boot is operated from either the interior button, the key button or the boot release. At a later stage, I will be adding the kick sensor to it.
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Wireless OBD reader is for a completely different functionality. That OBD reader is to get the funky OBD diagnostics and gauges using the OBD app. However, the loom should have come with a wired OBD connector as part of the loom and that connector is responsible for reading certain car signals from the OBD like door info etc.
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The backup cam is NOT triggered by the CANBUS. It's triggered by a physical reverse detection wire which is pin 5 on port G. (G5) pictured below If your car isn't gong to the reverse camera app when you engage reverse, it could be a setting. But then again, come to think of it you have the 10" system for non nav car? It may be that non-nav car does not have reverse trigger wire. So you may need to see if reverse can be triggered using CANBUS or simply just run a new reverse trigger wire. In regards to the door info, what year is your car? for the pre 2009 cars this info comes from the OBD connector. Did your harness come with OBD connector?
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The noticable difference isn;t because my previous ones are worn. I had perfectly good bushings on mine just thought i'd try it out because people swear by them. And it's made a considerable difference in how it goes round a roundabout and turns. The other performance bushes that have PP instead of rubber are supposed to be a lot better but for how much they cost and the fact that they need to be regularly removed and greased, I would rather not add something else to my maintenance list lol.
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Thats very odd. Ive been installing chinese unbranded head units on all makes of cars for many years never had these sort of problems. On the IS250 i've installed the Teyes on mine and had it for nearly 1 year and i've also done over 10 installations for people and never had these issues. Where i experience issues was helping people who had installed it themselves and due to installation misunderstandings and errors having some issues here and there and all of those were resolved. So even with those, the are all working well. I've never had to go back 10 times to look at an installation lol.
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You have to get android compatible sensors. Either the ugly looking external ones or the OEM looking internal ones. Ofcourse Teyes want you to buy their own one because they bundle that app in and their app only works with their sensors. But I already had internal sensors Deelife brand from before so wasn’t willing to change. I have the battery replaceable version of the Deelife internal sensors with enough service parts to last 50 years lol. By service parts I mean stems, gaskets, washers and screws. But if I was buying new then ofcourse probably makes more sense to get the Teyes sensors for a more seamless integration. Here are some pics of my TPMS
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According to teyes engineers and other hardware supplier engineers no there’s no way. It hasn’t bothered me so I haven’t looked at possibly doing a hack for it. Everything they say isn’t possible is not always true. They said RHD temperature button swap wasn’t possible but I did it. They said you can’t change bootanimation but I did that too lol.
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Volume knob on the CD changer itself is known as the master volume (The OEM amp volume). When you change that, the system shows a display pop-up saying Car Volume: and the number. The steering wheel volume button then adjusts the Android volume. So what I do is keep my master volume preset to a decent high level. and then keep my android volume at about 4 or 5 and adjust volume using steering wheel.
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A few other tips I forgot to mention that are very importatn: 1. The main nut holding the bushing to the control arm threaded shaft, don't tighten without the cars weight being on the wheels otherwise you risk damaging the new part. 2. Also, before removing the bushing, measure from the end of the lower control arm threaded shaft to a fixed point that won’t be removed during this repair. Record the measurement for both sides. Basically, you are measuring 90° to a fixed point of the car. Then when refitting the new bushing unit, place the bolts and nuts but do not tighten. Then Measure to the fixed point and force the end of control back to where it was according to the original measurement and tighten the bolts to secure it back to that original measurement mark. That way you won't need any alignment done after.