Neil E

Lexus are very reliable but when they do go wrong the forum can help out and hopefully keep costs down. Here's an example. If you buy the correct 3 button Lexus key with the module (second hand) it can be transferred into a blank and cut by any decent locksmith. Many can also programme them but it's quite expensive. There is a DIY sequence that can be followed to re-programme it to your car. The instructions are below but the video might make it easier to follow. I've done this a few times with different models. I can't remember if there are any subtle differences between the models but I think this should work. With luck it will be about £40 total. KEY PROGRAMMING:REMOTE PROGRAMMING: 1. Close and lock all doors. Unlock and open drivers door. 2. Put key into ignition and remove. Do not turn it on.3. Using the electric lock switch. Lock and unlock 5 times. (Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock)4. Close and open drivers door.5. Using the electric lock switch. Lock and unlock 5 times. (Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock, Lock, Unlock)6. Put key into ignition. Turn to "ON" , turn off and remove.7. You will see the door locks cycle by themselves.If the door locks do not cycle (lock and unlock) by themselves then the car isn’t in programming mode and you must start over.8. On the remote, press and hold the LOCK and the UNLOCK button at the same time for no more than 2 seconds.9. On the remote, press the LOCK button for no more than 1 second.AT THIS POINT, the locks should cycle by themselves ONE time. This means the procedure was accepted.IF the locks cycle twice it has failed.The most common reason for programming failure is because the car didn’t receive a good signal from the remote. To fix this problem try these tips. 1) Stand outside of the car while you are performing steps 8 and 9. 2) Don’t hold the remote buttons down as long.As long as the car is still in programming mode you can keep trying steps 8 and 9 until you complete the programming. If you wait too long and the car exits the programming mode then you must start over.After you get the remote to program then continue on with step 10.10. Close and open door to end programming procedure.1. Insert an already programmed master key into the ignition. Do not turn.2. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times. 3. Press and release the brake pedal 6 times.4. Remove the key from the ignition. 5. Insert the new key you want to program into the ignition.6. Press and release the gas pedal one time.7. Wait 1 minute. The security light will be blinking for this one minute. When it stops blinking your key is programmed. To end programming step on brake one time.NOTE: Look for your security light. This light will guide you during the programming procedure. The security light will go off at Step 1. It will remain off until Step 6. The security light will come on and start to blink after Step 6 until the key is programmed. If the security light comes on after Step 4 STOP the procedure and start over again. If you perform this procedure too slowly your car will not go into programming mode. If you can not get your car to go into programming mode make sure you are using a master key and not a valet key. If you have a master key then you will probably need to perform this procedure more quickly. The SEL with rear screen entertainment package can play DVDs but I'm not aware that any of the other models do. The mirrors can be set to auto dip in reverse gear (flick the left/right mirror control button to the right) but I'm not sure if there are any C-best settings for auto folding when the car is locked. There is an auto switch on the later models. I just do it with the manual switch if required.

It sounds like rear brakes but not if it happens in Park and Neutral when the car is stood still.

Ignoring the sound of the tyre on the surface, it does sound like the steering pump to me. Sometimes you do get that sound on full lock perhaps if the reservoir is slightly low or there is air in the system.

Lovely looking car Bob. I've booked you a large space in lane 4 of the M25 for tomorrow.

Yes, in this instance it's probably best to get Lexus to read the codes. It's a while since I used my OBD2 software so I'm not the best placed to give advice but Techstream seems to be the recommended product. The latest version has limited ability with pre 2005 cars so you may need to do some more research to see if there is an earlier version that works fully. If the car is using lots of fuel, doesn't that suggest the fuel flow is okay? It's rare to hear of a knock sensor. Without the codes we're just speculating but it seems strange that the Jap specialist was able to clear the error codes for any length of time. When it left their workshop was the car actually running okay or was it still 'limping?' I wonder if there is a bad connection to one of the knock sensors or MAF sensor.

I too saw this at Bluewater and it's simply superb. Do you have to serve time in an ISF before graduating to an RCF or is there a fast-track route?

@Rusty Crobar It's usually a quick task to tap out one of the studs to measure it and order the longer ones. It's not the offset that's the problem, it's the thickness of the wheel centre or the thickness of any spacers in use. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50mm-Long-Extended-Wheel-Studs-Fits-Lexus-IS-F-V8-5-0-m12X1-5-K-14-3-Year-2009-/182588018105?hash=item2a83180db9:g:QZ8AAOSw-3FZI~ml

Slightly rough or juddering steering (felt through the steering wheel) can occur when the fluid in the power steering reservoir is low. As explained earlier it may also squeal slightly on full lock depending on how low it is. It could be a fairly simple fix if it's a leaking pipe/hose/join etc but if it's run low on fluid for some time that won't help the PAS system. They aren't easy to see but look at the power steering pipes, flow and return, especially around the front offside wheel arch/front suspension leg area where the hard metal pipe is joined to the high pressure hose. Make sure there are no leaks. If a 4 post lift isn't available, it may be necessary to remove the engine covers and the front offside wheel to do a proper inspection.

I have searched but I can't find any in the UK at the moment.

Well I'm going to disagree about the SEL with air suspension. I looked for some time to find the right top spec model. It's well worth having the benefit of air and only difficult to deal with if you don't know what you're doing or use a garage that doesn't and that's where forum knowledge should help out. Most air suspension issues are to do with height controller faults that are easily fixed. I've only had one fail on the RX at about 130k miles, it took me 15 mins to replace the controller and order was restored. I've had air suspension since the 1991 Soarer and several hundred thousand miles confirms it's really not that difficult or expensive to deal with.

@Rusty Crobar good on you for pushing the boundaries. If there's room at the outer edge, it's just a fine adjustment to the offset that's required but I suspect 255 will tram-line a little especially on the inside lane. So totally irrelevant, not sure why I mentioned it, we know you only ever briefly cross that lane when joining and leaving the motorway.

@Rusty Crobar So no going back....it's time for the wide arch kit and aggressive offset. 255 sounds a little 'wild' for the front, they must be low profile. Presumably the usual wheel and tyre fitment checks have been done. I find this one the most help and saves me having to remember 3.14159... and adding 2x the tyre height as a percentage of the width for the full diameter for the rolling circumference and we haven't even got to the offset yet.... www.willtheyfit.com/

Good news, nothing serious, glad you got it sorted.

@Loolee1992 Glad you got it fixed, good luck with the numbers but I suspect you can feel the difference immediately. Looks like the O2 conditioner comes with an RR Racing label. I need to do some more research. I'm wondering from my own dyno experience if it calls for more air at the top end to lean the mixture slightly.

That's a very good point but it's a new addition to the kit so it depends when it was ordered.

@Big Rat yes that might be a slight giveaway. I suppose I could be the first H and S customer to ask for more silencers. My SC has PPE headers and a custom exhaust but until very recently that was quite quiet. I wonder if anyone, just for a bit of fun has disguised an F to look and sound like even more of a sleeper? Change the front wings, replace the quad tails with singles to become a real 'Q' car.

Yes I'm sure that would be a lot of fun if the car still appeared to be a standard IS250C. Would anyone notice the slightly taller bonnet?

@Big Rat Interesting idea, the 'ISCF,' it sounds like a next generation french bullet train but for me it's more the qualities of the SC cabin than the novelty of the convertible that beg the question of whether it could be done. As you suspect, nice as it is, the IS250C doesn't have the same appeal to me personally. If a real F fan with deep pockets needs a few extra sun-rays in their life, that would be a nice little project worthy of a magazine feature, though probably placed higher up the newsagent's shelves than Modern Classic magazine. Now if that distressed 'F' could be acquired for say £6k I might be tempted. Another £6k to do the conversion (Bob's weekend rates are high) + PPE headers and a few incidentals?

@Big Rat yes it would be a hell of a challenge for me but I could just give it to my mate Bob and he would probably have it done in a couple of days. @Bob King They are quite different to the 3UZ-FE. The LS460 has the 1UR-GSE engine and the ISF has the 2UR-GSE engine from the LS600. I haven't looked that closely but I've read the IS/ISF is based on the GS chassis and SC is also based on the GS. The SC suspension set up is very similar to the GS and I know the ISF rear anti-roll bar is a nice upgrade for the SC. The wheelbase is different so that might be a concern but it's the electrics and various ECUs that would surely provide the real headache.

@Big Rat Cheers Paul. An SC with 'F' power that would be something. Is that an SCF or an SC500? Either way, assuming it's possible, it's a lot of work and some serious head-scratching.

@Big Rat Apparently no room to haggle. I couldn't find any fault with the car except the mileage and the lack of sunroof. I agree if someone wants a 'keeper' and is prepared to lose a good deal of money on it, it's a good car. It's been prepped well and I turned up unannounced. Seemed like a good outfit to deal with too. The ISF was very impressive and I do want one, I just wish Lexus had given the F the interior it deserves. Decisions, decisions, the similar spec F in Cheshire is a year older and £2k+ more with half the mileage, Inchcape Guildford keep reminding me of 'discounts' on the quicker silver one complete with mortgage application or the accident damaged F could be the donor car for a rapid SC...I suppose. The lure or Kemble cake should be resisted and I ought to retire gracefully to the comfort of an LS460 but there is a certain appeal to being part of the 'F' crowd, I can see why it has such a loyal following.

A quick search of the likely suppliers didn't turn anything up. You could try Richard Walker (The Lexusman) but I'm not sure if they are available through him any more. Certainly worth a try.

@Big Rat Any time Paul. It does look a nice one but the salesman should take a look at all of the other much sought after examples for sale at the moment that aren't selling. The wheels let that car down but it's a simple fix. I had virtually no interest in my SC. I will have to sell the RX instead Don't tell the SC430 members but I went to view the ISF at Wotton-Under-Edge on Saturday.

Very artistic. I particularly like the black and white pic with the ISF across 3 lanes.

Goodwood is just down the road from me, will there be an opportunity to get the cars on the track? Alas mine has been tweaked 'just a little' so I'm out.