Neil E

The vid and the thread behind it has the same effect as counting sheep but it will answer those questions and a few more too. It does sound like you really want the later 6 speed SC430. 4 Yes that's a common one with the headlamp washers. 5. There are lots of 10mm bolts and fixings to release parts and trim etc, that takes time but the bumper comes off quite easily. There are a few tutorials on line but you're correct, once you start, it becomes obvious. 6. Yes unless you can find all of the parts secondhand cheaply, it's a very expensive conversion. 7. Some companies say they do but no one actually does a remap without an aftermarket programmable ECU. Without a supercharger or turbo set up to use it, there's little to be gained. So little too from adding the Swift Racing Technologies CAI and chip if they still do it. A 3rd cat delete and a nice custom exhaust with an X pipe might yield 10 bhp but I have no real evidence to support that because the guys with SC430 aftermarket exhausts aren't the types to hang around establishments with dyno-jet rolling roads. 8.The Beat-sonic interface is now plug and play but it's quite an expensive conversion when adding the cost of the head unit too. Yes works with the ML/Harmon amp and a double din unit can be made to fit the car with the wooden door in full working order. Beatsonic MVA-12LE approx £365 9. Yes go for the Lexus cambelt and water pump kit. I wouldn't trust anything else. 10.They are some very big wide wheels you have there. 👍 If you don't have any clearance issues with the car lowered on the H and R springs then the offsets must be spot on. Most of us don't go above 19" to help retain some comfort from the rear rubber.

Hi Pete, Sounds like you are well on the way with some very good work done so far.👍 1)The aerial has eaten another aerial, any way of adding a stumpy type? I may just disconnect the motor and plug the aerial cable into a fixed one and put that in behind in the boot if not. As per Paul's advice a new or secondhand Lexus aerial should solve it. 2)The power mirrors, they work but don’t go in and out all the way 95% of the time, is there a fix? The passenger side only goes up and down not left to right? Not come across this before. Sometimes the actual glass needs re-seating very gently. You can hear it click into place. They may need closer inspection. They can be removed after taking the door trims off. 3)The boot leaks, the wells either side in the back get pools in them so I have removed the rubber bung so it doesn’t look and just drips out, any idea where it comes from exactly? Check the drain pipes from the drip trays. Also if you suspect it's getting through the rubber, Bob suggested using chalk to coat the rubber seals and then spray water over the car. If it's getting past the rubber the chalk will reveal the source. 4) The windscreen washers and headlight washers have randomly stopped working. No noise from pump, nothing! I checked the fuse in the passenger well that says Washer and is fine, any idea? If there more fuses or a relay box? I suspect there is 2 pumps so would not think both gone as same time. I'm not sure. Do the washers raise and nothing comes out when the lights are on? Gently pull up the washers by hand and inspect. 5)What’s the easiest way to swop out the front sidelights, got some LED ones I want to put in. Swapping the bulbs really is a pain without the bumper removed or at least partially removed to permit access. 6)I’d like to swop out the rear light clusters to the later version, anyone know if a straight swop or a scrap yard etc that got any etc? The LED rear lights are nice to have but they require an ECU too. It can be done. Some guys on the US site have done it, search clublexus. 7)Does anyone do an ECU and/or gearbox remap for a few more HP without damaging anything? ECU remap - nothing so far, there is a mechanical gearbox mod for slightly quicker shifts and there are several flavours of electronic throttle controllers that almost eliminate all of the lag. Doing a reset has a similar effect. Very modest power upgrades come from third cat delete, custom exhaust, CAI with a chip from SRT. Headers should take you over 300 bhp at great expense. 8)want to keep the stock stereo, what’s the options on getting Bluetooth and reverse camera for some mod-cons. Can you swop out later model headunit that has Bluetooth? Follow Christian's recent post using Naviks and some very nice additions or look at Vaistech, Grom, etc. The later bluetooth set up with phone prep includes the screen menus so I think it would be quite a project. Easier to swap the head unit for something modern as the european interface from Beat-sonic does make it plug and play now. 9) Any other preventative maintenance I need to do apart from the usual? Was just going to follow what says to do in the Manual. Cambelt and water pump replacement are the essentials. 10)Any great modification worth doing? Coil-over suspension, + wider wheels and tyres will really improve the driving experience. For mods and fixes, try this, just skip and pause through it to find some of the pics you need.

Can't one? Keep the RX300 and buy a cheap reliable 'sporty' car to use when you don't need a boot. All for much less than it would cost to upgrade to a newish 450H. I use the RX most of the time but when the mood takes me, jump in the V8....and the mpg is actually better than the RX.

Yes they can be great fun to drive. I've done a few mods to make it go a bit quicker, upgraded the hifi, added USB connectivity, etc but if you're happy with the stock audio set up then that's probably not for you. Remote sunroof operation would be a nice novelty. It can be done with a multi-function alarm or Lux-link if one could be found. Are you running on a standard wheel tyre and suspension set up?

Hi Christian, very good advice with regard to going OTT it just needed to be a bit sooner.....🤣 My install isn't as elegant as yours. I looked at using Naviks but priorities for ICE were more to hifi. Like you, for the rear cam I took the sensible route and ran the cables through the boot to sit above the number plate (see pic). It's okay but a bit low really, hence the question about the image for practical parking and reversing. From past experience with other camera installs, I think the best position would be at the height of the boot spoiler above the 'L' for a better overall view. I just haven't summoned up the will to do it properly. A camera from an LS or RX might help make it look neat. Apart from recording the camera footage do you plan any other mods?

👍 Impressive, looks very neat and tidy too. I'm considering installing a CCD camera in the rear spoiler for a better view but is the improvement really worth the pain of re-routing the cable and of course it has to be mounted in the spoiler? How good is the image on your rear view camera?

Yes very good indeed. The Naviks is a good product. Why replace any of the original equipment if you are happy with the ML? Where did you mount the cameras?

What they are saying is true (though less so with the reliable SC430) but if the audio works perfectly without the Grom connected then there is no internal pcb fault or connection issue. The head unit and amp are working as they should. Perhaps it's time to take it to a car audio shop. I'm sure any competent audio specialist will be able to work out quite quickly if there is a fault. (ASC Audio or Absolute Audio in Wiltshire look okay)

Yes it does affect the ride but it can be improved with adjustable coil-overs or air suspension if your pockets are deep. I wouldn't go to 20" rims. 19 x 8.5 front and 19 x 9.5 rear is a popular solution. Tyres, 245 35 19 front, 275 30 19 rear.

The last time I checked, it was about £650 for the Clifford alarm method. There was also a Lux Link product but they are no longer made and very rare to find.

Did you explain to Grom that the stereo works fine without the Grom attached?

Never mind cleaning it. Go and get it dirty before the sun comes out as then you will want to use the SC. 😀

Hi Ben, welcome. The US owners have addressed the drivers 'A' pillar wind noise issue a few times. It can be the angle of the glass causing it to not seal properly or a split in the seal or the seal not seated correctly. There are a few threads that cover it on clublexus. Search with 'Lexus SC430 wind noise' and you should find the threads. I've had an occasional door mirror wind noise issue at high (ish) speed if it's very slightly out of position but nothing that a little extra audio volume couldn't fix. From the passenger door try lowering the window to half way and then put it back up and hold the switch in the up position for about 5 secs. If that works, do the same to the drivers window and that should be it reset. If it doesn't reset it, you may need to take the door panels off to investigate further with a multimeter. If you need to do that we can help with instructions and pictures.

Thanks Paul M, windows yes, I reset them frequently. I haven't ever known it affect the folding roof on the SC.

The key fob failure is usually just a key battery swap to fix it. For the windows, does the passenger window operate from the passenger door switch? The window / mechanism could be stuck or may need resetting. Does the roof switch indicate red when pressed? Check the boot cover is making good contact with the sensor. If that's okay check fuses and if all appears well then it's probably time to connect a code reader to see if there are any error codes that point the way.

Well that suggests the amp and the connection to it are okay. To test the amp I would disconnect the Grom, put the connections back to standard and test the system.

Do the balance and fader controls work?

I would recommend using genuine Lexus parts for this job. Apologies if this sounds a bit harsh and not very helpful but if he needs your help, perhaps it's time to consider another mechanic. I use a local South Coast Sussex expert but I believe Lexus do fixed priced cambelt services. It may be worth investigating.

No it won't cushion the ride. If one or more of the struts is high, the ride will be very bumpy. It's like having very stiff suspension on a high setting.

Yes, understood, probably not many RCs there either. When I took mine to South Uist, two guys in the ferry queue suggested it was likely the SC was the only one to have ventured that way.

I do like the RC but it would have to be an F. It might be worth testing a later SC to see the difference too.

I see, yes that might account for why so much is listed. So what's your plan? Will you try to find a similar car or add a little to the pot for a later SC430. The upgrades certainly lift the car to a new level of enjoyment.

That's quite a list. In the pics it doesn't look that bad but we can't see how bad it is underneath.

Hi John I've come across this before on the SC and on the GS. The motor noise is the ABS doing it's thing. That's probably okay. It's likely you have an uneven front brake caliper, possibly one of the slider pins has failed. A garage might be able to fix it if it's just loose or can be re-furbed but it may be better just to replace the caliper.

£5200 for a 2002 SC seems about fair. There must have been some major damage at £9600 to repair it.