Neil E

Well done on finding the right car and becoming a full playing member of the top-down club. If we don't see any pics soon, expect the SC430 club paparazzi to be with you shortly. 🙂

I haven't identified what exactly causes it but I've read that it may be one of the alarm components that continues to draw more juice than it should. I think I read somewhere that Paul Frost advises it is a component in the centre console near the seat heater switches. That points to the 'intrusion sensor' but there is also the separate alarm horn so I suppose that may also continue to draw power to charge up its battery. I will do it 'the right way' when I next have time to play with the car. Is there an obd reader that can snoop the systems for a drain without the ignition or aux on?

84931-24030 appears to be the switch below the radio head unit that operates the door so I don't think it will be that.🙂 I thought it was a rare fault but we have seen and chased this or similar on a few cars now and I don't recall anyone reporting that they solved it. The first thing I would do is connect Techstream or a good obd reader to see if there are any stored fault codes. Some of the advanced equipment can send signals to the switches to test operation too. If you can't easily test for codes, it does sound like a wiring /connection / earth fault to me so I would carefully check the fuses and fuse junction box in the boot and if that looks fine then the wiring to the boot lock/latch and the fuel filler release. I would start by pulling fuse 33, to disconnect the fuel flap and test it. If no change, try fuses 36/37 for the boot lock. I think we looked at the following in the past; Fuel flap lock Valet switch connections (glovebox) Master door lock switch on driver's door. Gateway ECU Wiring fault in boot/signs of damp that might cause an issue. The boot release and fuel flap switch connections

Hopefully they would all show up on the most recent MOT as a fail or advisory item......well if Bob was doing it they would. 🤣

It might show up through the steering but start with a 4 wheel alignment check. That should identify where the problem lies. Wear on the inside, it may be a toe-in, camber or castor issue. Sometimes it's more obvious than others. 🙂 http://fatlace.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/D2.jpg

....It may take a while for the front screen to heat up as it's a radio aerial.

I was going to say that. 🙂 I wondered what the red cable was for so looked it up on AT and can see it has DRLs fitted. Interior looks a bit neglected and the dealer has put some effort into cleaning it. Lovely colour, MOT history looks okay. It needs 4 new tyres if the Vitora Sportlife review is correct. E-rated in the wet so that's £600 to add.

Not a deal breaker, just allow say £400 to properly address it.

Yes it's a snip of one of the images for the Silver Morecambe car. The warning lights add up to something like an ABS or wheel speed sensor fault so Bob is guessing it needs new rear ABS (reluctor) rings.

I think there are 2 flavours that fit all SC430 models. Lexus upgraded the shocks but they are all similar to fit the same chassis whether an early or later model. Yes damping can be set to maximise comfort. On standard wheels and tyres, I found the front can be set firm and still be comfortable, less firm made little difference whereas the rear was best set around the mid-point for the ride to be acceptable. Well worth upgrading the rear anti-roll bar to limit the sway too, yes it improves the handling but I think it improves the behaviour for comfort too. Check here for the MeisterR details.

The used car market is still in the process of sorting itself out. I think it might take another year, maybe two to finish the correction.

Yes Steve, to access the adjusters a small cut out is required. It is quite easy to judge where to cut when replacing the boot carpet trim. You could dab a bit of chalk or grease on the top of the strut and then slowly press the carpet on top of it to make the mark for the hole. Some owners have fitted quite large (2-3") round pop out covers over the top of them to make it neat and that removes the need for pin point accuracy with the first cut. I'm no car wizard and I had no trouble with it. If you are going to get professional help to fit the MeisterRs I'm sure they would cut the holes for you for a tiny bit extra.

I eat spinach but it isn't working, perhaps I'm becoming a lightweight.......I wish. 🤣

The other problem I've had is with the headlamp aim being too low. It satisfies the MOT standards but the dipped beam doesn't project quite far enough. (in my case lowering the car didn't help) Careful minor manual adjustment fixed it but I think it can be cancelled out if there is a need to do a zero calibration procedure. So many systems can be affected by even a failure of just one sensor, whether it's a height, yaw or wheel speed sensor.

I have a full size SC wheel as a spare in the boot of the GS and it is indeed very heavy to lift.

Leave it or deal with it. For a few hundred pounds, it can easily be repaired and painted just like any other part of the bodywork.

Some nice pics there Bob, looks like it was well attended. The V12 Jag brings back memories. I had the saloon but always wanted the coupe with flared arches.

Perhaps we should stop promoting them, they seem to be appearing more often recently. I followed another one along the A272 the other day. Early model black 05 plate, looked very nice. Unfortunately I was in the GS not the SC.

I would take a space-saver or a full size spare if possible but I travel a lot so the risk increases. Definitely take a plug-in inflator. If all 4 tyres are the standard 245 40 18 and in very good condition and you are staying on good smooth tarmac, it might be worth the risk. In the last 160k miles I've suffered 5 tyre failures that necessitated a wheel change. In my experience a space-saver gets you to a garage or overnight stop, slowly, hopefully. A can of spray gunk isn't worth having.

Rear sensors were a dealer fit option, well known for not working. A back up cam is easy to fit and so are aftermarket sensors. I find the SC awkward for reversing, all of my bigger cars are/have been much easier.

You can bounce the back of the car to see how it reacts but how does it drive? That's the key. Almost everyone likes Meister. They are better than the originals especially old originals and they are adjustable but there are alternatives. If the standard suspension on the SC was the same as it is in the GS3 is would have been fine but Lexus set it up to be quite soft so the handling is biased that way and therefore compromised. From memory the aftermarket coilovers improved the ride and handling significantly but my addition of very wide low profiles take that comfort gain away. Just replaced the fronts on the GS with original Lexus units and they were about £360 each.

They should be fine with all of that. I had two different master techs do my recalls and it all went okay despite all of the hifi and stuff. On the first recall they also fixed a slight squeak on the steering wheel. First recall went to Guildford and the second was at Gatwick.

Well I would try that before cleaning the tubes🤣 Looks a nice example, I will keep my eye out for it on the highways of Sussex. I would be interested to hear views on a comparison with the GS.

.......I get confused with the different models but don't we push the button on the end of the stalk in the SC?

Lexus sell the pop up headlamp washer as a complete painted piece but you may need the securing clip too. Does the jet still lift and spray without the cover and so pass the MOT? Lift the armrest and the seat heater switch assembly can easily be removed for inspection by hand or with a plastic pry tool. 35.8 mpg indicates a serious connection fault with the floor pedal on the right-hand side of the footwell. 😉 This is why we stopped Bob from attending to judge any SC430 meets after 2019, every detail carefully noted, verified and points dropped. 🤣