Neil E

Next time I know I'm heading your way, I'll send a pm to give you chance to get your racing lid ready. The car is in the garage (my workshop not John's) undergoing some minor interior enhancement at present but I occasionally work at 2 locations not far from you so (as soon as it's possible) you can have a go. Hi John no problem getting access to my car and pictures, even videos but Phil is like Lexus royalty. There's not enough room left in my car to store the red carpet. No promises but when I have lock-down clearance I'll take a camera and blur the speedo for the onboard piece.🙂 Edit - We should book Thomas for the pics or at least the editing, it's only a short hop from Glasgow to the South Coast in an SC430.

Nice update Rob. Bedtime lock-down stories do need to be in picture-book format. Keep it coming when you can. I do like the rear lights.😎

Nice looking car Thomas in the best colours for an SC430. There are some fancy Lexus names for the interior colour but you have now officially joined the Elite SC430 Beige community - welcome. 👍 Hi Phil, you wouldn't like it. Remember it's the worst car in the world. Flag me down the next time I'm on the coast and you can take mine for a spin, just promise to keep it under 160. The only problem is that you'll still have no idea what a real SC is like but it will be fun. 🤣

Only when driving.🤣 Edit - apparently rule 57 of the highway code says pets have to be suitably restrained to avoid distraction and injury. The SC430 has rear seat belts so that should be possible if the dog is in a secured harness or enclosure.

Just checked ebay and as mentioned earlier by Roger, Paul Frost is a good source for supplies and instruction. He stocks controllers second hand if that is the issue. Hope that's the fault, as they are quick and easy to replace.

Yes as Bob and Phil say, it's more likely to be one of the rear height controllers or a fault / leak around the rear control valve. Credit to the guys on clublexus Try this link too. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/785827-help-air-suspension-issue-rear-end-bottomed-out.html

Yes it would be fine for a medium sized dog sat on the back seat. It's just not very good for humans as there's virtually no leg room unless the front seats are set forward.

That's very unusual. Have you had the car very long and has all this work been done to it very recently? To have so many electrical components inoperable sounds like a lack of power / common earth connection failure. The main fuse must be okay for it to start so I would start by checking power and main earth connections, main engine bay fuse box. Hopefully it's a loose connection that needs to be re-tightened or a broken earth strap that can be easily replaced. I can't recall anyone needing to replace an ECU. Did a quick search but couldn't find anything similar even in the US. No doubt one of the auto electricians will be along shortly.

Very smart in the best colour and looks at least 10% quicker with those wheels. I like the flash blue brake calipers too.👍

Very good advice. I did this the other day whilst checking the sat-nav and all of the mini fuses in the SC430 (it's a 2006) were possible to test without removing them. I agree with Colin, if it's draining quickly say within 24 hours then investigate a possible amp draw but it is common for an SC430 to drain even a good battery in 3-4 weeks. Some owners use a battery tender.

If it's from the third cat back, it's not likely to drone. merging both banks usually results in a good smooth flow and stops it from droning. £480 is a very good price,

The PCD (pitch circle diameter - the bolt pattern) should be 114.3 on the SC430 with a centre bore of 60.1mm. Do the new wheels have hub centric rings (spigot rings) to match the correct 60.1mm centre bore measurement? The supplier usually fits them to the wheels before sending them out if they know the car it's going on. Lexus original wheels fit 'snug' onto the hub as they have the correct centre bore machined into the wheel centre. Aftermarket wheels are often able to fit many makes and models with the same PCD value and the spigot rings adjust for the difference in the centre bore size.

Those are 'wobble' wheel nuts, often supplied with aftermarket wheels. If they are good quality they should be fine if there is enough thread showing. Best check the correct torque setting for them as it will be different to the Toyota style lug nuts.

To set 'Home' Whilst at your home location - press 'Menu' Select 'Memory' at the 'Memory points' line select register (there is also an edit option) it should return with the current location details. The memory point can then be registered using the home button. It should then confirm that location as your 'home' memory point.

As John says, replacing the studs is fairly easy as the hubs can be rotated so the stud holes can be accessed from gaps at the back. There's enough wriggle room to slot them in. I'm a little surprised the standard studs weren't long enough.

I can't remember the answer. I think you have to put it in as a destination and then save it as a POI or marked point as home. I'm using the Alpine sat nav, Google Maps or Waze depending on my mood but I do agree a paper O.S. map is king and so much easier to upgrade when the newest version comes out. It's not always recommended to save your precise home location just in case the car gets stolen but when I get back in the car tomorrow I will check the correct procedure to save the home address.

Hi Andy, I can't remember the last time I did it but I would not normally expect to remove the wheels to bleed the brakes. Is this to replace old brake fluid or do you suspect there is air or debris in the system? If you don't have a pressure bleeder, the 2 person method is quickest. The SC is quite low so it isn't the easiest, turning the front wheels on full lock one way and then the other might help access to the bleed screws on the front. If you can get the car in the air a little that will help too.

Interesting, I was going to try to use the clock spring and an IS wheel. My search for the wiring keeps pulling up diagrams that are for everything else.

Toby I can't find a wiring diagram but these may help get you on the right trail. .https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-toyota-lexus-a761e-atsg-automatic-transmission-service-group/ https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-3rd-gen-2006-2011/783313-3gs-retrofit-isf-steering-wheel-with-paddle-shifters.html

Looking good there Toby. Have you checked my old build thread? I did some research on this but 'bottled out' of converting to an IS paddle shift set up. Skipper do a full conversion kit, they might have a diagram but let me check the records and get back to you.

Yes, I think if you can get a genuine Lexus transponder it should work.

I haven't needed to re-programme an SC key but I have managed to do it with a GS and an RX key so it should be possible with a key blank and a genuine Lexus transponder. I obtained mine from a well known online auction site for around £30 You have to get the sequence for each part of the programming spot on or it won't work. These links may help. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc430-2nd-gen-2001-2010/541198-programming-a-key-can-be-done.html

Hi Toby, yes it's plug and play. My car is a 2006 just like yours. If you get the MVA-13LE on a later model, it's plug and play but if you want the audio door to close neatly, with some head units, there's a little bit of crafting to do. I did mine a few years ago by adapting an imported US MVA-13L before they made the 'E' version and there was some minor wiring work to do but it works just fine. My audio set up is modified so much I could dispense with the Beat-Sonic interface now. If you look in the long build thread on LW there's a fair bit of detail.

This may help. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc430-2nd-gen-2001-2010/879984-sc430-top-problems.html Also search for the roof diagnostic codes and there is a list with description. I can't seem to get the link to work but it's also from clublexus.

I'm not sure but I suspect it's the main boot lock switch/solenoid assembly and that might correspond with the boot not opening on the dash switch. Check connections around the boot lock and on the back of the switch itself. If it operates from the key fob, that does suggest the boot lock/unlock function itself is okay but if the dash switch part of the circuit is not working perhaps that reports a fault to the roof ECU.