Neil E

I would take it to a different garage or a main dealer to get the code read. There are a few common faults that will cause the engine light and the VSC light to come on. When a fault code exists, those lights will come on together and they don't necessarily indicate a fault with the VSC. It could be an O2 sensor, leaking exhaust, yaw sensor, abs sensor or perhaps the zero point calibration needs resetting, without the code, it's anyone's guess. (A loose fuel cap or poor seal can sometimes throw a code) You could try disconnecting the battery earth lead for a minute to see if the fault clears but even if it does it's likely to return sooner than later.

There was due to be a JZ / UZ meet at the end of Sept (East Mids) but the rule of 6 prevents it from going ahead.

I think you may be right, if there's a fault then the beep disabling sequence may not be an option. A few ideas. Any signs of water running down the inside of the A pillar/behind the dash? 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal for a few minutes to see if it resets itself. 2 Attach a code reader to the obd port to see if a fault code can be identified. 3 Take the seat out and inspect the wiring. Does it still beep with the seat removed or disconnected? 4 Consult an auto-electrician to trace the fault..

Perhaps the valet switch is faulty or there's an earth fault present. The emergency boot release pull cable is under the felt mat at the bottom of the centre armrest. The link below might help in your search for the problem. I would start with the fuses, valet switch and boot switch connections and check there is 12.5V or more across the battery terminals. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc430-2nd-gen-2001-2010/576633-sc430-trunk-and-fuel-door-buttons-are-not-working.html

The button at the glove box is a valet switch. You can switch it on or off to enable/disable the boot release. Opening and closing the glove-box should not affect the switch.

If it's judder when braking, I would check the brake sliders, calipers and pistons first. If there is some play in the rack you should be able to feel it with the car stood still. When the reluctor rings go you usually can tell from braking at very slow speeds, as the abs 'clicks' rapidly as you press the pedal.

Very good Rob. Stands nicely, looks purposeful without being too obvious or wild. I guess the noise is going to give it away otherwise I could roll up to you at the lights not expecting to be completely humiliated. 🤣 Are the next set of rears on order? Some of the members on here with share portfolios looking for future dividends might like to know which tyre manufacturer you favour? 🙂

I've had the seats out of the SC at least 4 times and I don't remember needing to reset them. Window reset on at least four of the cars, yes definitely. Perhaps because you have to run the seats back and fore to get to the bolts that takes care of it and I didn't realise.

It's a very reliable complex car. Did you check the owner's manual? It's probably in there........somewhere.🙂

I've never needed to do it but there is a seat reset procedure that supposed to restore the memory function. There's a similar one for the windows so it does make some sense. move seat all the way back. move seat all the way forward. recline seat as far back as it will go. incline seat as far forward as it will go. Worth a try

Hi Malcolm if you apply to the other site, we'll nudge the admin to get you in. There have been a few snags lately. Feel free to PM me your details and I will pass them to Rich and give him a kick. There are several ways to install forward and rear cameras. If you need a good wide view the centre of the rear spoiler is a good spot but a little harder to install. Most good garages and car hifi shops would do it as they understand the AV set up. The important thing is to purchase a good quality lens camera and to place it where you can see the field of vision required. The rear camera can be triggered by the reverse wire, a forward facing cam maybe best operated from a simple switch/ a/v switcher. Adding a Naviks unit is an easy solution to use the Nav screen. Some aftermarket head units incorporate 2 camera feeds but that involves lots of work and expense. Steve (WiL44) has done the rear cam the best way, here's a link to the car. His SC has been an inspiration for many years. Significant but subtle modifications. https://forum.lexusownersclub.com/threads/my-sc.305/page-15#post-284140

Good to hear it worked out well.👍 Yes we always need pictures and I look forward to the Navi screen replacement project. It's one of my current 'adventures,' where ambition heavily outweighs skill levels. There are a very few owners (mostly US and Russia) who have replaced the screen with an android unit with various enhancements - looks really cool and completely stock until the screen lights up.

Hi Nick good clear pictures. Would expect nothing less. 🤣 👍 As I said above, maybe lost in translation. I think it's probably just the way it was explained in a 'non-technical' way but you would expect new reluctor rings to be on the required parts list.

I might have been near Trent Bridge Cricket ground officer but in an LS430 or a Soarer....phew! Another risk to owning a rare, known or distinctive car - if you misbehave, the Mods might find out. 🤣

I too look forward to the future pleasure of an LC500. It might register a blip on my budget radar in a few short years but I doubt it will be the bargain a 5 year old Toyota Soarer once was. I will never understand how the Soarer continued to be overlooked by both LS and Supra fanatics alike.

Hope i don't need to organise another alibi.🤣

Good to hear the dealer is going to put it right. If it's at the front, it's probably one of the under-trays so not serious at all. There are several covers that are held on by clips and 10mm bolts. Probably 10 mins to fix on a ramp but unless the car was grounded at some point on the trip, it does sound as though the dealer didn't fully check the car before selling it. Stuff can happen but if the car is being sold at a premium, it ought to be very good when it leaves the dealer.

The LC500 of the 90's Phil. Munches the miles like an LS400 with a little added character and spice. A fully sorted Soarer UZZ31 is quite something but a lot of expensive hard work to restore one now. There's still a Soarer club that meet occasionally. The best source of detailed info is probably still down under with Soarer Central.

Nice post Steve, as you say, they are the only components connected with the ABS on the right rear quarter. If the reluctor ring and the housing it sits in are really bad then replacing the whole thing is easier than a repair including the fitting of the reluctor ring but as you say, finding a good used one could be tricky and a false economy. Far better to install a new reluctor ring and clean the housing if possible. It's not an easy job but probably made slightly easier on a lift. I suspect things were lost in translation. Perhaps all 4 wheels were removed to view the rings through the sensor points. Maybe the auto electrician determined the signal to the right rear sensor was the offending article. Lextech may have explained that the rear suspension links need to be disconnected from the hub assembly to do the job but it doesn't need to be replaced unless that's worn too and it has nothing to do with the ABS fault. I had one of my reluctor rings renewed during a routine service and I think it came to about £150 with me supplying 2 rings using the same company that you linked to. I've replaced ABS sensors on other similar Lexus cars in minutes. Occasionally specs of dirt or debris from the reluctor housing can cause a fault on them but otherwise they seem to be quite robust. If Lextech needed help from an auto electrician then they may not have previous experience of this type of fault on an SC or just needed confirmation.

Hopefully someone with more SC knowledge than I will shed some light on it. Has Lextech provided a list of the part numbers for the parts required? Some of the members are experts in sourcing genuine parts at favourable prices.

Sounds okay but Ts and Cs - 'Vehicles left at owners risk' might be a concern.

Check the service history and documentation. Make sure everything works as it should. Cambelt and water pump service after 10 years /100k miles. Check MOT history and recalls for the air bag. If you let us have the car details we could see if anyone knows it.

They are quite different to an LS but similar in some respects to the GS and IS. I think I know what it is from your description but can't be sure without seeing the car. One of the common ABS faults involves wear on the rear reluctor rings, is this what Stuart has diagnosed? New reluctor rings cost about £40 for 2 The ABS sensor monitors the rotation of the reluctor ring but when the rings wear, the sensors can't read it and so you usually get a rapid clicking noise when braking at low speed. If the hub casing is very rusty, it might need to be replaced but sometimes not, it just depends on how old/bad it is.. If the rear suspension is worn (shocks, arms, bushes, ball joints, etc) and needs to be replaced then doing them at the same time is sensible but it's a separate issue to the ABS fault. There are a few known trusted resources who could help. The links below might be useful. https://www.reluctorrings.com/cars/lexus https://forum.lexusownersclub.com/threads/sc430-reluctor-ring-replacement.13323/page-2

The bubbling on the roof should be easily flatted down and refinished without costing too much.

Looks very clean, well prepped with low mileage. Check to see if it has had a cam-belt + water pump service. Before you buy, try a face-lift model too so that you can compare the difference.