FrostyJack

what belt ?

Timing belt

I changed my belt last week with the help of my mechanic mate. When I removed the cover the edge of the belt had begin to wear and had a few chunks out of it (not as bad as above), so I was delighted I got it done in time. I bought a water pump from Lexus for 250 euro because I thought it was driven directly by cam belt, was sick to discover it wasn't and I could have replaced it anytime. Had nightmare getting new belt lined up, the minute the tensioner was released the belt would move and the timing would be out by about half a tooth. After several attempts, we backed it off about 2 teeth so when the tensioner was enabled it fell perfectly into place. Running fine now.

then the TDCI Ford Mondeo must have had a rocket up its rear

maybe it's just your reaction time is very good as the IS is not a quick car from the mark by todays standards.

Maybe it is just the way I drive it (I don't race around normally) but I have no problem stuffing people. There are a lot of faster cars as I said but not many.

Couldnt see the point in buying a manual, the IS200 is a slow car anyway so its all about the extra comfort of the automatic in my opinion

Slow car compared to what? An M3? I have never ever been beaten at the lights, 150 brake is about 35 more than the average road car focus, astra etc. It weights 2 tons but once it gets going only a performance/high end car will beat it. The manual is a lot better than auto imo, but if your mainly cruising on motor way or your lazy the auto is your man :winky:

I just put a new set of Dunlop SP9000's (hard to find) on the back of mine, I swapped the old rear tyres to the front to pass NCT (the old fronts had stupid inside wear), haven't had any rear slides on round-abouts since.

I don't think I need them asap but I will soon, so I might buy a set now while I have the money. I'll wait till the weather gets better to throw them in, sick of working in the cold, I ordered timing belt kit too, that will have to wait too :P

mintex are recommended, but be careful, theres meant to be a few fakes on Ebay.

I was looking on eBay and there are a lot of different prices for the Mintex pads going between 14.99 - 38 pounds for a set of fronts, I would be very wary of which ones I got. Would there be much difference using Mintex pads with OEM discs or would you have to get Mintex discs as well to get full performance?

Cheers Aido for that tutorial, it is rather handy. My lens were cleaned but they are not perfect. The next chance I have a block of free time I'll stick them back in and run a few tests.

Thanks again.

When I was driving home last night with the new HID's in (5 minute journey) I had 2 guys waving their fist/finger at me going in the opposite direction and the only 2 people infront of me had their hands covering their rear view mirror and they didn't look too happy either. I decided to whip them out again (this only took me 5 minutes as I wrote myself a BKM on how to install/deinstall them) untill I can have them checked. I didn't want to be in in a digging mate every time I came to lights.

The lights should be level as the halogen only passed its NCT (equivalent to MOT) last week, so I'm perplexed what to do. I was talking to a guy who said I should have projector lenses and shutters on them. Anyone any advice? I don't want to waste them.

Sorry guys just found a thread on it, the brown connector was the other way round !!!!!!!!! Why the hell don't they label it. Oh well, very happy with them, they look class especially now I put my sports grille on this morning. Again thanks for all the help today!

I managed to get them hooked up but they won't come on :tsktsk: I'm about to give in and call my mechanic friend, I've checked the all the cabling and everything looks correct, has anyone suggestions?

Maybe it's too late now, but although it's a fiddle you definitely should be able to do it without removing the passenger headlamp. Remove some of the other bulbs to make yourself a bit more room.

I read your mind, I tried putting them in without removing the assembly, they seem to be in but not 100% secure (i.e they haven't clicked into place), just going to put in the ballasts etc and will tidy it up tomorrow. The darkness has arrived so everything now is being done by torch.

Thanks for everyones help today, I learned some valuable lessons ( one of which was not to waste time driving to shopping centre for cable ties, when they are included in the box.

Ah I miss read your post, so I do have to pull off the liner under the wheel arch to access the 2 nuts? I can see them from the outside but I have no tool that can reach them from there.

Thanks, those pictures are excellent. Which direction do I pull the assembly from, I have the 2 bolts out , but it seems in tight. I don't want to force it.

Why do you need to remove the headlight assembly to install HIDs ? The bulbs are inserted from the rear of the assembly, which you can get to from the engine bay. It's a bit tight on the passenger side and you might have to remove some other bulbs to get the wiring out of the way, but it shouldn't be that hard.

Or are you trying to retrofit whole HID headlamp assemblies from later IS200s ? Those won't fit easily.

I had a quick go at installing them without removing the assembly but it was too tight at passenger side as you say, I thought it would be easier over all to just remove whole section. I'm just putting standard HID's, not retro fitting whole assembly.

it is 2 nuts that hold it in under the wing m8 il put up a pic for you soon

Ah cheers I was trying to pull off cover like a clown. I just saw nut now, is there 2 on each side, I can see only 1?

I'm currently trying to get headlights out to put HID's in, but I cant get screws out from under the wheel arch, there is no way to unscrew it as the pin is rounded (or there was no place for screwdriver in the first place) I'm afraid I'll snap it if I force it out. Any help on this? I can't see any other way of installing HID's without removing headlight assembly.

Cheers guys, I suppose if it survived the Nurburgring, it will survive a drive up to shops :D

Are those velcro strips secure enough to hold them during " aggressive driving"? Does the velcro come with the kit? Might invest in a set after Xmas, they look class.

I would never class the IS as a fast car (Evo, WRX etc) but in terms of family/exec saloon it is miles faster than an "ordinary" car. 150 bhp is about 40 more than the average saloon. The reason the Lex isn't that quick is it weights the same as a house. That affects the 0-60 time. Once it is up and running this is not as much of a factor and overtaking etc is very easy. Before I bought mine I test drove lots of cars including a WRX, 318 and a Leagacy B4. The lex was the best compromise. It isn't going to be stolen every 2nd week and is a lot more comfortable than the above cars. The 318 was as slow as xmas compared to it.

Cheers guys, It was the rear bulb. The light comes on when the brake pedal is pressed, but it doesn't light up when main lights are turned on. I presume it is getting more voltage when the brake is applied. I swapped it out with the one from the other side to confirm that it's just the bulb. The problem followed it.

I went to Halfords and bought what I thought was a replacement (same rating) but in my rush I didn't check the connections, there are 4 on the oem bulb but only 3 on the Halfords one. (only cost 2 quid so no biggy). It fits but only lights when the brake is on just like the old one. As I know the lights are working fine I'm in no rush to replace it. I'll probably swing by a lexus dealership to make sure I get the right one this time.

The feedback through the stereo could be a bad earth, Have you changed the stereo?

Yeah I swapped out the radio (same cd issue most people get) with an after market Sony. The feedback issue hasn't happened since, might have been a loose connecting from my recent mountain drive (went into a giant pothole at high speed while overtaking a cyclist). Thought I dislodged a pad or caliper as there was a mechanical noise (like metal on metal) when I was driving but it stopped when the brake was pressed? This has since stopped occuring now as well. I visually checked each wheel and found nothing wrong, if it starts again I'll take off the wheels and check.

Hi guys I'm away from home at the moment, just after getting into hotel so I'm not near my manual and don't have time to browse net, sorry, on the drive to here I noticed a warning light on the dash with a car with lines coming out of the rear lights, there was also a what I thought was the sound of static noise coming through the speakers. (could be seperate issues) is the warning light a bulb or fuse gone? I can run to the nearest motor factors / lexus dealership to get either if it's something small without the risk of been rear ended (nearly happened to me before when the switch at the brake pedal failed to come back down in my last car!) thanks in advance.

Cheers mate, it was 16 dollars.

Does anyone know the part number for the oem oil filter? Couldn't find any on eBay. I'm order new pollen filter from here http://www.puravent.co.uk/filters/dispfilter.pl?id=302

I ordered off the American guy the other day but he didn't include the shipping price to europe. Does anyone have an idea? I mailed him but no reply yet.

Hi, my 2001 IS200 is overdue a service now, it has about 43K miles on it and the last service was 36K over a year ago (before I bought it) it has a full Lexus service history. I'm on 2 minds of getting it serviced in a dealership and being fleeced or just getting it local (or by one of my mechanic friends) in Dublin.

I know logically I should let Lexus do it but will it be worth the extra $$$

Can anyone (in Ireland) recommend a Lexus garage to get it done on the Southside of Dublin. The previous servicing was done the other side of the city a good distance away.

Cheers.

Only a wet day in an IS200 and now I want your IS300, looks class!