Haylands

You will probably find that the windows are can bus (or similar) controlled, it maybe easier to rewire the whole thing, most windows work on two wires and you swap earth and 12v to put them up or down so it's pretty easy to do...

I would hazard a guess that it's set up lean then which will increase the EGT, can't say I ever tried a back to back but never noticed any of mine got significantly hotter.. Used to find a lot of systems set up on the lean side as it makes the cars "feel" like they are running well and helps to keep the MIL light off, which a lot of fitters are more interested in Quick and easy to tell with a basic OBD2 reader, check the STFT, should be less than 10% but not a minus figure... Oh and it could be more than 10 degrees, I can't remember the exact figures, my point was that at the temp they both burn at it's pretty irrelevant...

Pop to the dealer or a decent body shop and ask them to have a look and see if anything is damaged or maybe just the sensor has popped out or something...

Like I said there are a lot of myths out there... and the calorie one is sort of misquoted... LPG has a specific calorific value of 46 MJ/kg Petrol "premium" grade is 44 MJ/kg LPG's relative density is 0.6 kg/L, Petrol is 0.7 kg/L So, its energy density volume is lower than petrol. Hence you have to use more, but it's specific calorific value is higher so it burns hotter... I think that's how I remember it being explained to me, the exact values may not be spot on though... Anyway... who cares, it's half the price of petrol and I hope they sort out a decent system for the 460 soon....

That would involve believing things you read, it's very interesting to see all the myths repeated like chinese whispers... What I have stated is fact and physics, I worked designing and installing LPG systems on lots of cars for years. I don't mind if you disagree, I was just sharing my knowledge but I certainly don't want to get in an argument over something like this, you have stated your side and I have stated mine and the other members on here can make their own minds up...

I would imagine something is damaged, you could try opening and slamming the bonnet... Are you not claiming on their insurance...??? your car can look fine but have expensive hidden damage, it needs checking out...

Try the cheap simple things first, after a good run, wait 20 mins then check the battery voltage, should be around 12.6volts, if it's anywhere near 12volts then the battery is on it's way out. Also check the earth straps for cleanliness, especially the engine to body earth...

Thanks David, Keith, It's air suspension.. front end is a bit floppy..!!! one ball joint split and worn, bushes getting soft, so I decided to replace the lot, eight suspension arms and two balljoints These... two of these These four And two of these...

Oh, right, I see what you mean Malc, it has original front wings, doors and boot, it still has the hologram sticker on them and the boot floor looks very original... no surface rust on the bottom of the steering column which is a sign of being flooded, see bottom right, that is unprotected mild steel... Popped in this morning to see how they are getting on, roof and bonnet resprayed and they were flatting and polishing it, they are going to double bake it so it will get stuck back in the oven tonight, baked for 30mins then left to cool overnight, then another flat and polish in the morning, this is to get a good finish and check for sinkage. It should be ready for pick up mid morning... I just get them to flat and polish it, I will finish the hand polishing at home as I like doing it and it keeps the cost down.... I have booked a ramp next Tuesday at my mates garage to do the suspension and brakes, the suspension bits are here, just waiting on the EBC brakes... Getting there...

Lovely car, enjoy the newness........

Malc, Can't say I'm that bothered, what's happened in the past doesn't affect what I do to it, knowing what's been done doesn't make it any better, I know a lot of people are scared and want a full dealer service history but after finding out you can ask for a cheap oil service every time and they will stamp up the book as serviced and the fact that it doesn't matter what they find wrong with the car you still don't have to get any of it fixed to get a stamp in the book.... It makes a total mockery of the system... if they stated exactly what was done and list faults reported in the service book and whether they were fixed, that would be some worth... I always over service my cars and do a lot of preventative maintenance so, in a short space of time it will be in top condition... It drives just as it should apart from the front suspension.... If it had a FSH then it would stop from now on as I won't trust any of my vehicles to anyone else to service or repair, been around and in the trade too long to know what they get up to and I have to say some main dealers are the worst crooks out there...

To be pedantic about it, yes it does have a lower calorific value which is why the old single point systems were never as powerful because you couldn't get more gas in than the throttle would allow, with a multipoint injection system the ECU uses the petrol injector times and increases them by around 20% to compensate for the lower calorific value, so theoretically it will burn hotter than petrol as the flame temp of LPG is about 10 degrees more... as I said above, pretty negligible... Another point is that the octane rating of LPG is higher than unleaded, it's about the same as the old 5 star, on the Range Rover I have just sold I re-wrote the standard ignition map to increase the timing on acceleration and knocked nearly a second off the 0-60 time. On petrol it ran fine, as the engine (BMW M62 V8) has eight knock sensors and retarded the ignition if pre-ignition was detected. There is an awful lot of old wives tales out there about LPG though....

Had a phone call from the paint shop this morning, what we thought were just hard water marks on the bonnet and roof are in fact some chemical that has eaten right through the clear coat and will not polish out, sods law the worst bit is just above the driver's door... They really didn't look that bad but it looks like whatever it was softened the paint right through to the undercoat then hardened again, they used 2000grit on a DA and they go flat with little effort but you can see the paint underneath has pickled.... You can't see them from 3 feet away and they wouldn't photo but I'm fussy so they are getting sorted... That's another £200 on the bill to paint the roof and bonnet... just the bootlid and recently resprayed front bumper have survived... Still, should look like new when they're done though.......

Last one was daughters Colt, the letters are just too big on a black car... (her's is a CZ2 and had a big "1.3" badge the other side as well, don't have a before pic..) We think it looks much better after...

I've always found Dunlops to be rock hard... As to rim protection all it does is ruin the tyre as well as the wheel, if you curb it, it squashes a chunk of tyre wall against the rim, wrecks the tyre and damages the rim... Got to change the tyres on my, new to me, 460 because of damaged side walls caused by rim protectors... They are Bridgestone Potenza's

There is always more than one way to do things, does he really need to get the crank pulley off, I've done plenty of belts where it stays put.... He could try the, cut the old belt radially in half, slip the new one on the half removed, then cut the other half off and slide it over... Ask him to think outside the box a bit, that's what you have to do when things don't go right...

Ask this bloke, he does it for a living.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-LEXUS-KIA-JEEP-JAGUAR-HONDA-FIAT-DODGE-KEY-PROGRAMMING-/222163663273?hash=item33b9fc79a9:g:CpQAAOSwGIRXbANX

Lovely 400, I'm sure that will put a big grin on your face... keep it nice and it can only go up in value...

Sorry, have to disagree, LPG does run hotter than petrol, less than 10 degrees hotter, seeing as they both burn at around 1000 degrees it makes no difference at all... The 6 cylinder 300 Lexus engine doesn't have hardened valve seats and does need a flashlube kit the 400 and 430 engine DO NOT need one, they have hardened valve seats and all you will do is coke up the engine by unnecessarily adding oil to the mix... You do not need any special oil in an LPG vehicle, or special spark plugs either, lots of rubbish out there about it all.... just stick with standard plugs....

Would be a boring old world if we all liked the same thing... I have debadged cars before, just like these ones....

Sorry, I'm with David, the Lexus badging is very nice, it's discreet and elegant and I like it, I shall have the cotton buds out polishing around them when I get it back...!!!!

Just ordered the brakes, I had decided on the standard EBC range as these are very good, I've used them before, they quote... Ultimax2 high quality OE replacement brake pads are manufactured in the UK and are type approved for your vehicle. Designed for long life with minimal dust and featuring Brake-In coating for faster bed-in. One pair of premium OE quality replacement brake discs, precision cast from G3000 iron, surface ground and black Geomet coated for corrosion resistance. These discs are runout tested and are an exact replacement for manufacturer discs. This brake kit provides the perfect combination for general street use. The Geomet coating appeals to be, hopefully the top hats will stay rust free... (Well I can hope....) I was impressed with the GOLD members discount...A full 30%... £82.05 covers the years membership and still gives a good discount...

They had two jobs cancel on Monday, I only went to talk about it, was going to do the mechanicals first but they were all stood around looking bored so I left it... Suspension arms won't be here till Friday anyway......

Thanks, glad you're enjoying it.. Popped in this morning to drop the exhaust trims off, there was quite a lot of car park rash down the doors so they have primed and blocked them back, it's not far away from receiving the top coat, that will have been done today, they will flat and polish it in the morning so should get it back sometime tomorrow... There was a small amount of damage to the rear inner edge of the drivers door, you can just see the yellow primer where the front door is cracked open... I know I haven't had it long but I'm missing it so I'm looking forward to getting it back...

If the vehicle is over 10 years old why not go for a classics policy, they give agreed value and the option to buy the salvage and some even pay for repairs with second hand parts so you get to keep your pride and joy... Try Adrian Flux or other specialist Ins companies...