TigerFish

That is one of the 8.5 inch front wheels off the sport model. The 10" rears have a dish to the front face with a 275/35/18 tyre.

Probaly not mate. You will need a place that can do full setups including camber and caster. Will cost around £100 for a full setup. Be warned though, when I went to have mine done, all of the rear adjusters had seized solid on mine and they couldn't adjust them. I have a full set of replacement arms sat on the shelf in the garage at the moment waiting for me to have the time to change them all and have the geo redone again. A pain to say the least.

Have you tried your Lexus dealer? They sold off the IS200 equivelent grills cheap a while back, maybe they are doing the same for the mk1 GS.

I can't remember a great deal about the inside workings of the dash anymore but the screws that are very long are used to carry the electrics between one board and the next. So if they are not making contact properly it would most likely stop parts of the dash from working. I would just double check everything is making contact.

What mk/year is your GS?

From what you have said, I would say a fouled plug Or something along the spark route to #4. Dizzy cap, lead, cap, plug. If it was an injector, you would expect some difference in engine note if you stopped the spark to #4 unless the injector had completely failed. No idea what codes can be reported, so don't know if it would bring up a fault code on an injector to pin point one. When I got water down the plug wells when I had to change the heater valve, that caused a similar problem which I thought would dry out. It didn't so I had to take it out and clear it all up and then everything was hunky dorey. Could be equally as simple for your problem.

Result. Which vectra bushes did they use?

Was it running rough before changing the belts/leads/hoses? Or just since? What hoses did you change? Where abouts is the valve cover leak?

None of the parts you listed are the trailing arms. For the GS you can get 3rd party bushes to fit the trailing arms fro the United States. Not sure for the IS. if I get better access to the forum tomorrow I'll try and find the link to the GS ones and you could contact the seller.

I use 6000k hids in mine. Not too blue. No pics but I mounted my balasts inside the front bumper using one of the headlamp mount screws (remove the front indicator and you can get to the bottom outside mount). Not sure on the usefulness of hid fogs, they would be so bright you would get too much light bouncing back I would've thought. No idea on the reaction times, but it does take a second or two for the hids to warm up, but they would still probably kick out enough light on initial switch on to be of use in the main beams.

There aren't any bypass leads that I am aware of. You may be lucky and be able to buy the plugs/sockets from Lexus/Toyota and make one up yourself. Unless the plugs on the amp and head unit are standard types as used on other models, but I would've thought a supplier would list it if there was such a compatibility. Even the autoleads fascia plates for the mk1 are no good for right hand drive cars. So the only option there is the genuine Toyota items (Lexus don't list an equivelent so you need to speak to Toyota for Aristo items). Not many options on the wiring side unfortunately. I didn't bother making mine revertable if I sold the car. A head unit is cheap as chips to replace if I wanted to keep my existing unit when I sell the car.

Is it a mk1 GS?

Yup, that would happen if the geo wasn't redone after fitting the springs.

"In order to earn the circled 'E' on their sidewall, tyres have to pass the ECE R30 high-speed test, which ensures they can carry a specified percentage of their rated load at close to their rated maximum speed without failure. But there are no statutory tests of braking, handling or aquaplaning performance, and even the R30 test is considered inadequate by many car makers. In other words, just because a tyre can legally be sold in the UK, that is no guarantee of its performance in safetycritical aspects of normal driving." Like has been said before if you can't afford to maintain your Lexus properly then buy something cheaper you can afford the upkeep on. Budget tyres don't have a place in this end of the market IMO. What end of the snobbery Market are you talking about. My GS cost a couple of grand, my misses has a Focus that cost triple that. Price or marque has nothing to do with it.

I'm sure I got mine from Halfrauds. Although a g-clamp should work also unless it needs to screw in the piston. In which case, normally a large screw driver from the side can screw it in.

If you look at the pads and disc tutorial in my signature you should see some pics (GS and IS setup is the same on the front). There are no screws to hold the discs to the hubs, the wheel clamps them up tight.

I think the bushes are available seperately as mentioned. I would say it is well worth considering that option. The hub itself is not that expensive in reality, but if the ABS sensors are siezed into it, then you have another 130-150 quid a side for new ABS sensors, plus hand brake linkage bolts etc can be rusted up. All adds up to some unexpected hidden costs if you are unlucky.

So, what you are saying is, if you were driving a Corsa/Fiesta, you would be happy to drive around with ditch finders. But because it is a prestige Toyota that you are driving, the vehichle brand requires a more expensive tyre? hmmmm, interesting argument. What I meant was the IS200 has more power (some people aren't happy with 153bhp of the IS200) than some 1.2 litre chavbox- so I guess you would want to fit some decent tyres (that worked well in the wet/dry etc) to a expensive car? No? Not really. If you dordle around in an Aston Martin Vantage at 30 mph all day, your ling-langs, ling-longs, dinga-lings or whatever they are called would suit just fine. If you are no boy racer exploiting the limits of your cohesion with the road, you may as well save yourself a few bob.

So, what you are saying is, if you were driving a Corsa/Fiesta, you would be happy to drive around with ditch finders. But because it is a prestige Toyota that you are driving, the vehichle brand requires a more expensive tyre? hmmmm, interesting argument.

Yes, a staight swap over. Although there were 25mm lowered springs fitted on the "Sport" models (did they do those models in Italy?), the shocks were no different, just the springs. And you are correct, the geometry would need redoing afterwards. Why do you want to raise the car back up, the stance is much better on the lowered springs?

Guessing not as it's still the same Probably misses it if he isn't on every day

Sounds like the same symptoms as my GS when a wheel bearing needed doing.

Has Steve had a chance to look at this?

Passed a white ISF on Monday (12 April 2010) at about 18:30. It was leaving the anti-clockwise M25 and going onto the M40.

I have a Parrot CK-3100 in mine, but I had already removed and bypassed the amp. You are correct, if your amp is still in use, you would need to tap in to the speaker lines after the amp. The mute cable that comes with the handsfree just switches relays to remove the amp outputs from the speakers and replace them with the handsfree output. The only other option I can see would be to tap into the speaker lines where they enter the doors, but that would be even more awkward. If the cables aren't long enough to reach the boot, you would have to extend them. It is probaly more economical to extend the connection between the control unit the the mute lead, rather than extend the iso connector for the speaker connections (as you would need to run one length up the car to the boot from the mute cable, and another length back down again to the parrot kit). No idea if parrot may do an extension cable and I can't remember how long they are of the top of my head. The amp is located under the changer in the boot, so you would need to remove the carpets from that end of the boot and unbolt the changer unit etc to make life easier for working space. Shouldn't be too hard a job. Good luck.