TigerFish

nothing I can think of other than a leak. The radiator is most like to go on the front where It is not very visible due to the air con radiator in front of it. If you undo the two top brackets on the main radiator, you can tilt it back slightly to see in between. Green discolouration is a key indicator that there is some seapage from the rad. Failing that, if there really are no signs of leakage anywhere externally, I would get a pressure test done to check the head gasket.

Yeah, I'd agree with the fact LOC is now on IPB 3 seems to be the reason. I did some searching about regarding the "Posts since last visit" and it appears that Invision omitted the feature on V3 (god only knows why) but put the feature back on a revision and it was configurable from the users settings. Having looked at the settings on here, it doesn't work so maybe LOC is not on the lastest revision of V3. I think what is more frustrating is the fact that nobody who can fix this has piped up on the thread, even if its to say nothing is going to be done about it. I know everyone is busy, but Steve is about on the board. If he is missing the post because he isn't seeing them within the last 24 hours then that doubly highlights the problem!

Yeah, you can also do it by holding ctrl or shift, but my point is more the fact the behavioiur of the site has changed. For three years or so I just click the links in LOC, but now I have to do something else, which I forget to do from habit, and then end up closing down LOC altogether. By default, I would never expect a site to lose its own window when clicking an external link.

On a US vehicle, it is item number 89293 on the first diagram. The bracket in the 1st diagram is # 85999A in the 2nd diagram. It shouldn't be too far different for a UK one.

I was just going to say something very similar in that they have done a grand job at making it look like an old Ford Orion 1.6i Ghia.

Have you checked the front height sensor(s). I would've thought, if it sensed the front was (incorrectly) high, then it would raise the back to match? So maybe you are looking at the wrong end of the car?

Bump Also, is there a way of making the forum launch links in new window/tab automatically. It always used to, now it replaces the current LOC position. I am for ever closing the LOC web page and then having to go back to it again from scratch. Not a biggy, but a pain when you get used to using a site in a particular way and then it changes so drastically.

Cheers TigerFish..... There's a chance it may be the solenoid even though the the car was 'turned off' & keys were out of the ignition? I am guessing I can wire the starter direct to check? PS Loving TFK - got fancy goldfish myself...you've got a new member in me :D I'm afraid it is most likely the solenoid. Once the solenoid engages it takes a high current feed to the starter bypassing any switches. I the solenoid sticks, it will just keep cranking until the battery is diconnected, goes flat or the solenoid sorts itself. There seem to be two symptoms, your one, or where you just get a clock when you the key. I used get both happening. Thanks for the comments about TFK :)

Sounds like the solenoid. Cheap to fix but does mean the starter needs to come out. On the LS it is located in the V of the engine I believe and not a pleasant job. There is a link in my sig for overhauling the starter once it is out (starter is the same near as damnit to the GS). can't help with getting the starter out though.

Is it a mk1 GS? Auto only works on drivers window and only down.... crap really. All windows move up/down on mine regardless of door being open/closed. Mine is a '96.

What did you connect into with the jack? The link is for the SC stereo, which is a different head unit so no idea how similar they are. Maybe you have discnnected the wrong capacitors? Have you reconnected them as they originally were connected to see if it fixes things?

Bumped again

I looked, but I cannot help with the questions once I saw them.

Sounds a possibility, how do I remove the socket? No idea specifically for the LS, or even where they are located in the LS. On the GS, either by removing the ashtray (which contains the lighter) or the trim panel with the lighter on it.

These are the wiring diagrams, not sure if that helps.

If they are like the GS ones, they also have a fuse wire built into the socket itself. If you remove the socket, you will see two discs, seperated by a fibre disc and a wire bridging the two metalic discs. This is the fuse wire. You can just remove the fibre disc and it will then work again (albeit with no fuse function built in). Works a charm.

If I'm honest, I don't really know. I can only think that corrosion or stones getting trapped causing any wear/damage. I've never had it happen to me or anyone else I know though.

I haven't taken mine apart, but would think it could be dismantled if removed from the car. Or atleast the connector on the back could be bypassed to allow the release to be used without the key position coming into play. It is linked into the Anti Theft ECU, but no idea how clever it is to being bypassed.

Yes mate, any other car you can change the ring but with LEXUS you gor to change drive shaft? which is a pain as the drive shaft it self is fine. anyway as i said i got 2 coming hopefully tomorrow and i can have a good look at them to see if they can be servicable, and will keep you informed. My local garage seviced my car and said that you would not think it was 12 years old it drives like a new car,only fault was this clicking . Sounds odd, I would've thought that the CV joints would be available seperately, even if the ring wasn't. Hopefully they will have it sorted soon. Update after talking to Tigerfish on pm, help needed to solve a problem after sevicing, 1, Took it into another garage not my local for a service and a check on abs clicking on actual stop and this as been like this for about 8 months no lights or buzzer on dash coming on. 2, sevice done and check done, was informed abs seners/pump all working ok ,but rear secters or abs rings on drive shaft badley worn and need replacing. 3,Driving home found that had another click developed on front wheel after service? 4, Took it back and they checked front wheel and could not find anything wrong, after driving back home found that all clicking had gone and the lights on dash was on ABS/VSC but no buzzer. Any help needed as i should be going to cornwall this weekend so need to get it sorted,is it that after service the ECU needs to be reset Well new update? have tried many places that do cv joints and have had 2 deliveries and both of them do not fit even thou they said they are for my car? so it looks like it is going to after be LEXUS for complete driveshaft unless anyone on here as had cv joints changed on gs300 mk2 and from where they got them. any joy on this mate? Have you had the sensors checked out? The reason I say that, is that the rings being worn wouldn't put the abs and vsc lights on at start up, it may confuse the system when in use, but shouldn't cause any diagnostic failures.

This ebay seller had mk1 lowering springs listed a couple of weeks ago. Maybe email them and see if they still have some clicky I got my RS*R springs from Envy Performance.

very nice mate. Should be a but of an improvement on performance over the Lex

I've also noticed if you view someones profile and check their posts and/or thread list, you don't get a complete list. Maybe that is related to what you are seeing as far as posts not going back further than 18 months. Although.... some of the links in my sig to the tutorials I have done are older than 18 months old, and they are there if you click on them. So perhaps there is a global setting on the forum for limiting how far back searches work. The "new posts since last visit" is badly missed so can we please have it back :winky:

Yeah, that is Prolex's IS350 Supercharged that he had imported last year. There should be a couple of topics on here that were ongoing during the import process.

as above. If it is leaking down the side of the engine where the distributor and exhaust are, then as the name would suggest, you need the exhaust side gasket. If it is leaking down the other side of the engine, you will need the inlet gasket. If it is laeking somewhere along the middle then you need either or both, but no telling which unless you can see exactly where it is leaking.