TigerFish

There is a fusebox in the side of the footwell. Sounds like probably the 10A "Dome" fuse has blown and/or the 15 "CIG" fuse. Also check the "RAD NO.1" fuse.

my bad lol i got one from a breakers this morning and when i got it home realised it was drivers side and they aint got another i cant believe my luck try sending wow300. I sent him both my spares (OS and NS), as I didn't have time to pop my wheel off to check which one was the OS one. He should have the NS one left over.

No idea where abouts in the UK you are, but Camberly Auto Factors around here do blue print stuff I believe.

Suspension issues can be costly, so get balljoints and bushes checked out. Any vibration on braking through the steering can also indicate suspension issues and/or sticking brake parts. Brake Servo is a common problem and very expensive to fix if it hasn't already been replaced with the improved item (couple of thousand for the part from Lexus, rare as hens teeth from breakers). Not a mk2 owner myself so can't help beyond that.

Hard to say if the compression test on 4 is OK. It is not a terrible reading so probably ok. I had a cracked ring on my old V8 Rover Vitesse and you could see the gasses blowing back through the oil filler cap if you removed it. Unless it is something like that, you are probably ok. On the same Rover, I also had a blocked breather at one point and that forced oil out from the push rod cover in the V of the engine. This would seem to sound more like what you are getting. I've not tried it on my GS, but can you run the car with the oil cap off and see if the leaking subsides at all?

Yeah, agreed. In an emergency, a short distance at slow speed is possible. I wouldn't class 15 miles as a short distance though, more like half a mile, at 5-10 mph max. Disconnecting the prop is definately the way to do it for that kind of distance if towing is the only option.

Lots of them available on ebay clicky

Did you fit the carrier I sent mate?

Try here Clicky

Smooth peanut butter works a treat too, and as an added bonus, you can make your sandwiches with the rest of it :)

The owners manual says but does say in a later paragraph I would read "short distance" as being less than 15 miles.

What do you mean "oil pressure problems".

Breakers or the dealer is pretty much it mate. Could also try ebay, especially the yank one as there maybe after market ones on there.

Can't think of anything specific but would agree that there would appear to be positive pressure in the crank case. If the compression test is fine, then I would recheck all of the vacuum pipes, as you could have a blocked breather somewhere.

Did the garage check the dizzy cap and coil?

No mate, they are not the same.

Its a 1999 model but i am not sure if it is mk1 or 2 how do you tell. Thanks for replying. albar a 1999 would be a mk2 (i think 98-05), if it looks like mine in my sig, that is a mk1 (93-97). Not sure what year the later mk's came in but assume if the mk2 did end in 05, it would be that point for the mk3.

What year/mk is your GS mate?

From what I've seen on here, people recommend using a breaker bar on the crank nut and wedged on the ground. Disconnect your sparkplugs and give the engine a quick crank to crack the nut.

Cheers for the quick reply - are you saying the starter motor has to come out to repair the solenoid switch - Lester Yes, it would need to come out. If you have a look at my tutorial, and the location of your starter, you will see why.

There aren't any speaker cables as such at the headunit. They are low level feeds to the amp, which then supplies the high power outputs to the speakers and the sub woofer on the rear shelf. By bypassing the amp, I fed the speakers out through the headunit low level feeds and then just bridged them straight across to the high power speaker cables by the amp. I removed the amp and sub and have a vibe active sub in the boot. I don't have access to my wiring diagrams at the moment but I would guess the antenna main power feed could come via the amp. From what I remember, the amp has it's own heavy ampage fused feed, with just a low power "switch on" feed from the head unit.

Sounds like the solenoid rather than the starter. Assuming the starter is the same/similar to the GS, the solenoid can be refurbished for around £10-£15 in parts, plus the time to remove and replace the starter. For the overhaul, there is a ling in my signature to a tutorial I did. If you have a look in the LS sub forum, there are a few posts about the starter and the V8 engine (and what a b*tch it is to get out) along with the odd tip for the job.

There aren't any guides that I know of. I cut the original plugs off and replaced them with ISO connectors. This helped with the install of my Sony head unit and also helped when I fitted the Parrot handsfree kit which has ISO connectors also. I also cut off the plugs and removed the amp, and bypassed the wiring so that I could use the factory wiring for the speakers. As far as the antenna is concerned, I didn't have any issues. With the factory headunit, there is an extra feed to the antenna to extend/retract it slightly depending on frequency/band in use on the radio. As long as you hook that beed up to the main antenna feed, the antenna will fully extend. The wiring diagrams you have should help with identifying what is what.

Great result

Thanks Steve, much better :)