TigerFish

Thanks for that. I have already fitted a Sony XAV-W1 now though.

Maybe the fuse for the radio is a bit dodgy, or it's connection? There should be a permanent 12v feed to the digital clock, so you could hook into that, assuming it is showing the voltage you want.

Maybe the scorpion is checking for a voltage on the "acc" feed when it is armed, and the low pv voltage is being fed onto it (through the bridge you put in) when the ignition is switched off?

as Dave mentions, the "Sport" model was put together once they hit the dealers in the UK. The 10" rears were an optional extra on the "Sport", the standard "Sport" wheels had the same wheels as the fronts on all four corners. The differences on the "Sport" model was: Sport grill Rear Spoiler "Sport" window sticker in rear quarter windows "Sport" Sticker on front bumper (under near side fog lamp) Lowered suspension by 25mm all round Borbet/TTE Alloy wheels (10" rears optional) I think that was it, engine and running gear wise, they are no different to the standard models.

Prices were in the tutorial thread I think.

There is a link in my signature to a tutorial I did to replace those bulbs.

My mk1 never had any inside the access panel either, so I never bothered replacing them.

Cheers both, much appreciated.

Thanks for that. I'll give that a go if no-one pipes up.

Is it really "all" in one? On my mk2, that part of the console can be out of the car in less than 5 mins. Admittedly it isn't a part on it's own, but part of the top panel of the console. No idea how much the replacement panel would be, but not a massive job to change that part of the console. It could even be that it isn't broken, but merely the coin or whatever is obstructing the catch. This happened on my MK2 and a removal of the panel, and an upside down (etch-a-sketch style) shake sorted it out.

No recommendations? I don't really want to resort to the yellow pages, would prefer to use someone that can be vouched for.

Anyone?

I've used the Falken 452's on my GS a few times, very good tires IMO. Currently running F1's and they have been very good (and my 325 coupe before the Lex).

I'm with Steve. Hopefully it is the lever end of the cable inside the car. Gonna be tricky if the bonnet end of the cable has come adrift.

I've not done it, but the process is pretty straightforward. Follow the same procedure as the tutorial in my signature for the pad and disc procedure to get the caliper and carrier plate off. Once these are off and the handbrake is off, the disc/drum should pull off. If it doesn't pull straight off, rotate the disc so that the open hole in the disc is at the 6 o'clock position (if the rubber dust cap is in the hole, remove it first) and then with a thin screwdriver through the hole, wind back the self adjustor until the disc can be removed. The adjustor is like a threaded barrel with a toothed collar, you use the screwdriver to push the collar round, rather than on a slotted head, if that makes sense. You should be able to see it through the hole. Once the disc is off, just put the new shoes on in the reverse order of taking the old ones off.

If the lights in the switches light up ok then the fuse is fine anyway. I can't find anyway that one seat can have any effect on the other seat. They both have seperate supplies from the switch, and both the seats, and the switch illuminations have different earth points. So unless there are a load of earths not connected, I can't see any connection at all from one side to the other. Each seat seems to have two halves to the heater circuit. A thermostat controls the overall temp of the whole seat, and a second controls the lower temp range. I assume it is like a safety feature, making sure if the temp goes too high, the whole heater is switched off. If the seat back harnes is not connected to the seat base harness, then that would stop the heater completely, as the circuit goes through the base, then the back and then to earth. Are you sure they are not working? Did you feel the other seats working before removal from the other car? On my mk1, it seemed to take forever for the seats to heat up, on my mk2, they are much, much faster, almost instant. Have you tested continuity through the seats? On the seat base plug, At seat temp below 30°C, there should be continuity between pin 1 and 3. At seat temp below 30°C, there should be continuity between pin 2 and 3. At seat temp above 50°C, there should be no continuity between pin 1 and 3. At seat temp above 40°C, there should be continuity between pin 2 and 3. On the seat back, pins 1 and 3 should have constant continuity pins 2 and 3 should have constant continuity Pin 3 to earth should have constant continuity Other than that, I can't think what else to check.

I would like a pro to come in and giver GS Sport a full body make over. i.e. Remove all swirls and blemishes and buff and polish up. Any recommendations on who does a great job in the Basingstoke/Hampshire area (or maybe Reading/Berkshire area) and also what kind of money would I be looking at paying for such a job?

I now have my Sony XAV-W1installed and working, along with the Parrot CK3100 handsfree. Just my Vibe sub left to do. Anyway, the headunit has a reversing camera input (RCA video input), has anyone got any recommendations on the camera? The headunit can flip the video, so the video doesn't have to be reversed already. It just needs to be as small as possible, with good quality video and preferably good low light capability. Any recommendations gratefully received.

I've used that guy for quite a few GS parts, no complaints so far.

Yeah, I'll give you a hand mate.

Try PM'ing WOW300, he is breaking a mk1 Sport.

I would like to know this too as I have a '99 Sport, and that fails to connect. I suspect the protocol just hasnt been fully implemented in european models of that age, but here's hoping.

Yeah, odd isn't it. I told him I didn't want anything for doing the work. Hopefully nothing serious has happened to the fella. It was good to meet another fellow LOC'er though :)

I don't think that it is that it isn't wired up, just not fully obd2 compliant. From what I can gather, full compliance was a legal requirement in the States from 96 onwards, but it was a fair bit later in Europe. I would've thought a 2006 model should be well after the compliance starting on european cars, so ought to work with any reader. So probably worth a punt on one of the cheap ones.

I'm sure there was another thread about this somewhere and comes down to flushing the heater matrix out.