TigerFish

When I had a rear bearing done on my mk1 GS, the garage advised new park brake shoes. They ordered them in. When they arrived, they realised the new ones were as thin as the old ones, so they changed their minds and sent them back. They are clearly not expected to wear a lot over the years if the new ones are so thin.

Try clicking the link below, all being well (assuming the copy and paste on my iphone worked) , it should open up a new PM to Neil (sorted vti). Just type your message and send. PM Sorted vti

No washers are not heated nor are the wipers, at least not on UK models. Pity really. Pete Just out of interest ,I used to own a 1990 mk2 golf gti, it had heated washers jets !!! Come on lexus,,, keep up lol Yeah, my '92 BMW 325 Coupe had them. Infact, I put the non-heated ones back on when I sold it so still have the heated ones in the garage, I wonder if the nozzles would fit the GS

I seem to recall a service bulletin changing the interval from 60k to 100k, in which case any IS200 with less miles Is likely not to have had a belt change. Or have I got it arse about face and it went the other way?

Looks like it has had part off the system removed, judging by the little pipe stubb that goes nowhere. Looking at the Sewell online parts diagram (for yank versions I know), there should be a loop going off to heat the bottom egde of the windscreen - for the wipers??. That clamp looks like it probably held that loop in place somehow.

There are a few pics of an orange wheeled lex in this thread. Took a while to find it, I could remember seeing them, but the searching on this site is w%nk since the software update. clicky

I did have a spare. I have stuck it in a small jiffy envelope with a couple of first class stamps on, hopefully it will arrive without a hitch.

If you PM the member "Sorted vti" on here, he will make some up for you.

Yeah, that is definitely the carrier bolt. The slide pin bolts are the two that are at either end of the caliper itself in your pic. If you PM me your address, I'll check tonight when I get home and stick one in the post if I have got one spare (it would be off a GS, but should be the same).

Is it definitely the carrier bolt that has come adrift? It could be one of the slide pin bolts that has gone missing, and would have a similar effect (albeit just the caliper swinging up rather than the caliper and carrier). If you can get a pic, or confirm for sure which one it is, I probably have a spare knocking about somewhere that I could post out tonight.

Check the slide pins also, they are a very common issue. There are a couple of tutorials in my signature regarding calipers and slide pins. Although they are done on my old mk1 GS, the IS setup is the same.

Yup

It should be checked hot. Off the top of my head, the process is something like: Drive for 20 minutes so fully warmed up Park on a level area Slowly move the gear selector from park, all the way through the selections and back again Repeat step 3 Move selector to "N" Pull out dipstick and wipe clean. Insert and pull out dipstick and read level. The level should be between the "hot" level markers. New, fresh fluid should be a red/pink colour. Old stuff will be brown, dirty colour, and can smell burnt. If you do decide to change it, not all fluid will be in the gearbox sump, so a drain and refill of the sump wont change all the fluid. There are a couple of ways to do a change: Drain the sump and refill, run engine to allow the fluid to circulate, drain and fill, repeat as many times as you have fluid for. The other way, drain and refil sump, disconnect the fluid cooler pipe going to the radiator. Run engine and allow fluid to pump out of the pipe into a container (don't do too much in one go). Refill with the same amount that has pumped out. Repeat process until the fluid is running clean. The first way is the easiest, but won't change as much of the fluid overall, the second way is definately best. I have just done the first way on my mk2 sport, the gear changes are much better and smoother already. I may well redo it the second way next time I order oil from opie oils. Hope that helps.

I had some old lady come down the slip road of a dual carriage way, she was still going to pass me an carry on to the dual carriage way. It was only my persistence through my open window that made her change her mind.

When my head gasket was done, the garage didn't torque up the cam sprockets properly and one came adrift. Once everything was realigned again and tightened up, it suffered no I'll effects.

I can comfirm It is non-interference :)

I used to have a set of those on mine, they do the job OK. Do you mean to fit the bolt key you just bought in the link? or to hammer onto the old ones to try and get them off?

You could try hammering a slightly undersized socket onto it. Impact sockets are best as they are much tougher (black coloured rather than the silver/chrome colour of standard ones). Failing that, maybe one of the local tyre fitters could help, they may even have some spare nuts knocking about cheap to replace the removed locker temporarily. Nuts are M12x1.5, just make sure you get a tapered shoulder or flat seat dependent on the originals and/or wheels.

Have you had the battery checked out? The LCD is available, around £100 when I was looking for mine before I ditched the whole factory setup. Of course you still have to fit the LCD even if you stump up the 100 quid for it. No idea what would be involved in that.

The GS LCD is available, around £100 when I was looking for mine before I ditched the whole factory setup. Of course you still have to fit the LCD even if you stump up the 100 quid for it. No idea what would be involved in that.

Yeah, Unfortunately the centre caps for the GS Mk2 Sport wheels have been discontinued. They are rare as hens teeth to get hold of. Last ones I saw on ebay went for crazy money, but keeping your eye out on there is the best bet. None showing on ebay at the moment though.

There are more than likely level sensors on the suspension aren't there? For hids or self levelling suspension? Maybe one of those is up the duff and causing the EML to come on when there is exta weight in the boot.

I've used these type of blades on my MK1 and MK2 GS's, apart from the fact they work very well, they also park up much tidier under the bonnet line too.

By my reconning, with an offset of 35 front and rear: The rears would stick out 5mm more than my sport wheels in the arches, and clear the strut behind by an extra 17mm compared to the Sport wheels. Should get away with the 5mm. The fronts would stick out an extra 11mm, and get 1mm closer to the strut. I'm not sure I'd go with them myself, 11mm sounds a bit too close for comfort for me. but I could measure the clearances with a tape measure on mine to give a more accurate summary.

Use a couple of metal tie-wraps around the heat shield. Infact, I don't remember any welds on mine, the shields are wrapped around and crimped around the edges?? Even if you go the welding route, I can't think of any reason why it shouldn't be done.