TigerFish

I always use the park brake, which is more a habit from having more manual cars in the past than anything else. Whether it is neccesary or not doesn't really matter. As it is present, and it is what it is intended for, I don't see why anyone wouldn't use it. I put the gearbox in park because I am parked, I put the park brake on because I am parked.

To be fair to Lexus, the shift lock isn't meant to be an anti-theft device, only a safety one.

Like Ormi, I would expect to have gotten a 12 month warranty on parts and labour so you shouldn't need to pay again.

it isn't just about having the key. It is about having the key, power and your foot on the brake. If for any reason, one of those is not working or is faulty, you won't be able to move the vehicle out of park. The shift lock button overrides all of those requirements should you need to move/recover the car. For instance, try disconnecting your battery, and then move the car without using the shift lock button.

Actually, are they mk1 Sport wheels, or mk2 Sport wheels?

The centre caps are discontinued, so other than scrap yards and eBay, there are not many options. The last set of four caps I saw on eBay went for pretty high money. The spoilers from Taiwan are good, I got the roof spoiler and they are great quality with excellent painting, boot lip spoilers I think are the same thing, so should be equally as good. Nothing really common I can think of, caliper/slide pin seizure is common on all Lexus models pretty much, so keep those slide pins lubed up at every pad change.

What I mean is, one of the abs sensors or its wiring could've been knocked or damaged while the ball joints were being done. Best bet is to get a local garage to read the fault codes to give a better clue.

Could be one of the abs sensors as work was being done in that area. The vsc needs the sensors working so that it can tell when a wheel is spinning.

What year GS are you thinking of? I'm assuming from what you have said that it would be a mk1 (92-97) and if a sport, then they were only done on the mk1 from 95-97. I've had a mk1 Sport, and now on a mk2 Sport. The mk2 is definitely a better motor, although in a lot of respects I prefer the shape of the mk1. Having said that, the longer I own the mk2, the more dated the mk1 seemed. I have always loved the Sport wheels on the mk1 (only with the 10" wide rears though), so much so that I sold the mk2 Sport wheels on my mk1 and kept and refurbed the mk1 wheels on my mk2. They suit the mk2 great as well. I had my fair share of issues with my mk1, I seemed to have been unluckier than most. Crank oil seal went, head gasket went, front bottom trailing arms, radiator, alternator, starter motor, wheel bearing. All in all, a good few grands worth of stuff. So far on the mk2 (touch wood), no problems at all. Seizing calipers and slide pins on the brakes are a common issue on most Lexus, easy enough to rectify. Suspension parts can be expensive, so check it all out for play. Engines are generally bullet proof, although the rear crank oil seal can be a weak point on them. Tyres, especially with the 10" rears 275/35 18's can be expensive, but online places like camskill or blackcircle can be reasonable. Other than that, happy hunting and welcome to LOC :)

Has the button by the switch been pressed?. Try unlocking the button with your key and try again.

Fair enough. There is a complete unit on eBay, although not green.

What part do you actually need from the mirror? I have a blue one, minus the glass, depending what you need.

On the older GS's like mine, if the battery has been disconnected, you need to insert the key in the ignition and turn to the 'on' position (do not try to start) and leave it in the 'on' position for 5-10 minutes. After that time, turn off, remove key and then insert key and start as normal. All to do with learning the codes again I think. Worth a try.

What isn't working on it?

It was £5 import duty, plus a £10 admin fee. Thats not bad... I just ordered one in black, wont mind paying £10-15 extra, although the admin charge seems bit of a rip off! how long did it take to reach you? Not sure exactly. I won it on the 10th Feb, and left feedback on the 23rd Feb. So must've been less than two weeks, as it was most likely a day or two between getting it and fitting it, and then leaving the feedback.

It was £5 import duty, plus a £10 admin fee.

I have a roof spoiler off eBay on my GS. They didn't list my colour but confirmed they could paint that colour. The match is spot on. As mentioned, I did get hit by customs which I didn't mind too much, but I thought the fedex admin charge for paying the duty up front was a bit if a ***** take.

It actually didn't look as bad as I thought it would.

Very nice, and the Aero's are by far the best looking stock rims for an IS.

Nice weight saving. Probably a bit too open spoked for my taste though but I would definitely spruce up your calipers with a lick of paint and some decals with them so much on show ;) I'd probably go for some grooved and cross drilled disc too just to fill the gaps in the spokes with something nice to look at.

Just sounds like there is too much slack on the side between the cam and the crank (the side without the tensioner in). I would try and get one less tooth on the straight run and try again. If that makes sense?

If you align the marks on the dizzy body and the drive cog, everything should line up anyway, assuming the ht leads are connected correctly of course.

Welcome to LOC, good choice of model B)

You can end up 180 degrees out on the timing that way, would be pot luck (i.e. The crank turns twice for every single turn of the dizzy/cams). To get tdc on the firing stroke you are best taking off the top plastic cover over the cam pulleys. Line up the timing mark on the crank, and check that the notches on the two cam pulleys line up with their marks on the back cover. If not, rotate crank 360 degrees to line back up with zero again, the cam pulley marks should line up this time. Next, line up the notch/mark on the drive cog and distributor body. Next, If you look at the flange on the dizzy that has the slotted hole for allowing adjustment, you will see a little protrusion, line that up with the centre line of the bolt that goes through that slotted hole and push it all together. Once semi tightened, you will need a timing light to set the timing accurately. As a stop gap, as long as tick over is smooth, and there is no pinking under harder acceleration, you should be ok. If you get pinking, just advance slightly until the pinking stops under harder acceleration (that is while driving of course, not just revving on the driveway). Hope that helps.

Unfortunately,I don't remember the specifics anymore. I think we need the help of a mk1 owner here, to go take some pics.