Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


TigerFish

Established Member
  • Posts

    4,637
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Store

Gallery

Tutorials

Lexus Owners Club

Gold Membership Discounts

Lexus Owners Club Video

News & Articles

Everything posted by TigerFish

  1. Disclaimer: As always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines. One thing that was really annoying me was when driving at low speeds, the slightest bump would give a rattling noise from the front of the car. The culprit being the worn/rusted slide pins allowing the caliper to move slightly and the metal on metal ,slide pin and caliper mount, clanking together. Tools required (excluding wheel removal): 1. Large screwdriver or lever 2. 17mm open ended spanner 3. 14mm ring spanner 4. Copper grease 5. Hammer 6. 21mm socket 7. flat blade screwdriver or chisel. OK, now down to the nitty gritty. Jack up vehicle and support on axle stands, please see this topic for wheel removal etc --> clicky 1. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary it made photographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case. top. bottom 2. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly. 3. Now remove the caliper 4. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand). for the rest of the overhaul, I have removed the caliper mount to make it easier to photograph 5. The caliper mount showing the dust boot. The slide pins just pull out. If the grease has hardened, they can be hard to budge. A bit of penetrating oil helps free them up a bit and aid removal. 6. We need to remove and renew the boot if it is damaged or split. I used an old chisel and a hammer to remove. 7. Now we need to put the new dust boot on. For this you need to thread the rubber boot into a 21mm socket. Make sure the whole of the rubber part is inside the socket and the socket is resting on the metal washer. 8. Now offer up the socket and boot to the caliper mount and using a hammer gently tap it in. Be careful that you don't catch the rubber boot between the socket and washer/caliper mount. 9. Now the new slide pins. One is referred to as the Main slide, the other as the sub. Not sure why but there you go, the "main" is the one with the indent around the tip. This will hold the bush, which is just a rubber ring in reality and is slipped over the "main" slide pin, 10. Now just apply lithium grease to the pin and slide it in. Re-assembly is just the reverse of the removal. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs). Any questions, please shout. Part numbers for fronts: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Part numbers for rears: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust
  2. I do mate. The reason I haven't said Bank 2 sensor 1 is "here", is if someone has changed the wrong one and doesn't want to admit it, they will just say "yeah, that was the one". If they have to describe which one it is, it will either be the right or wrong one.
  3. Was it code P0155 again? No reason to assume it is definately the same code, could just be coincidence. Which sensor is it they changed? Looking from the the front of the car, what was the position? i.e. left/right hand side/downpipe/underfootwell, that kind of thing. Just to make sure they are changing the right one :) Which fuse do you mean? If the fault codes have been cleared, then there should be no reason to reset the ecu. I would tend to lean towards wiring to the said sensor if it is still playing up.
  4. Must admit, didn't think the satnav unit had a cartridge, just a CD or DVD depending on the type, which you need to eject. So possibly the drawing a blank is because there isn't a cartridge. IS200 don't have a seperate music CD changer and associated cartridge as you feed the multiple disc into the head unit one at a time.
  5. Buy a new battery is my advice I'm afraid. You have no idea if a second hand one is on its last legs already. If the one you have has removable caps on the top, you could check the water levels in the battery, but only top up with distilled water and don't over fill. If in doubt, don't do it and just bite the bullet for a new one.
  6. The slidepins are fully enclosed with a rubber boot at the end. Unless the boot is damaged, the grease isn't exposed to water to be washed off. Without looking in the manual, there is no way of knowing what the second grease you have mentioned is used for. May be the copper grease, which doesn't hold up particularly well on the slide pins either. Nothing seems to compensate for regular attention, which I suspect is neglected in general due to the pins being enclosed and not visible.
  7. Did you change the battery? When I changed my GS430 battery the replacement wasn't exactly the same size (even though all website sources said otherwise) so the bonnet would catch, essentially making the front of the bonnet spring up. Is that happening? If I left the clip on cover for the terminals off, it would close properly.
  8. Halfords always used to sell the Comma CV Grease.
  9. A dodgy sensor does sound possible. It may we worth getting the fault codes read ('99 GS300 aren't fully odbII compliant so home code readers won't work - plus most home units don't read the abs ecu anyway). It could save time/money/effort as the sensors aren't cheap. For the brakes, my first port of call would be checking the caliper slide pins on the front calipers. If the grease has dried up, they can create rattles/clunks etc. Plus check the metal pad clips are all present at the same time. If you suspect the noise is coming from the rear, then check the pad anti rattle shims/clips are all present. There are some links in my signature block below to tutorials I have done which may help.
  10. My advise would be to use what it says in the manuals, Lithium soap base glycol grease, the Comma CV grease is that type as far as I know and I don't believe that it is graphite grease.
  11. Can you confirm which sensors they are checking, and how are they are checking them? There are four altogether. P0155 is for Bank 2 sensor 1, which is a pre-cat one. I'm just thinking if the post-cat ones are being checked/changed, it would show all good as there was nowt wrong with them. One reason why I'm asking is that the two pre-cat ones are not easy to get to the connectors, so doing a quick check isn't easy. Also, the reason for asking how they check them, is the connectors for the two post-cat ones are under the carpet in the front footwells, so not that easy either. Both my pre-cat sensors (heater circuits) were duff last year. I bought one from ebay (see item number 180755731260 - no idea of the brand), and the other from www.ecolambda.co.uk (the brand was Walker- not quite as cheap as ebay but none listed on ebay at the time). Both cleared the fault codes and were not genuine Toyota/Lexus parts.
  12. Lithium soap base glycol grease is the recommended stuff in the Lexus workshop manuals
  13. depends on the offset of the wheels you are planning.
  14. Her Here is a full tank shot, it is a reef.
  15. That would be good. What fish do you have in it?
  16. maybe these will help http://www.totalfishkeeping.com/lexus/pdfs/booster_removal.pdf http://www.totalfishkeeping.com/lexus/pdfs/bleeding.pdf
  17. I've had a K&N one fitted on all three of my GS's so far. I didn't notice any performance increases, but fuel consumption did seem to improve slightly, albeit not a huge amount.
  18. Was it definitely P0155 that showed up again? You only mentioned you reset, but didn't say what code was putting the light on again.
  19. Both bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 were duff on my GS430. If I reset the codes, they would only come back on after full throttle (or very heavy throttle). Had to replace both of them to clear the fault altogether. Both sensor 2's were fine.
  20. Yeah, my mk2 GS300 and GS430 have a key lock in the boot lid. Should do the trick.
  21. Other than trying some breakers, not sure where you would get them. Have you called a dealer for a price?
  22. I recently did the arb bushes on mine. This is the tutorial I did for the change http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=75279&hl= If you contact ACLex on here (Lexus Pool parts department) he did mine for £17.66 + vat each.
×
×
  • Create New...