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TigerFish

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Everything posted by TigerFish

  1. They can be dismantled, but in all honesty, the hassle and effort isn't worth it compared to the cost of a new one.
  2. Maybe the poster just wanted to post a link to an auction they have for sale?? Posted about an IS200, which shoudl be an IS250, yet lists having a GS300 in their profile and not located in the uk. Or am I just too suspicious??
  3. Mk2's are the same, with the bulb holder for dual filement bulbs are already fitted. I altered the wiring to use the second filement from the side lights, so would imagine the mk3 would be do-able too.
  4. Sorry mate, forgot all about those pictures. I'll do them at the weekend. I can send you a link to the code reader I bought (was 30 odd quid from what I remember) which works perfect for reading and clearing fault codes (not abs codes though - which are on a different ecu).
  5. Is it just the radio, or has the illumination in the switches gone off too? If so, there is a 7.5A fuse labelled "Panel" that supplies all of those items.
  6. You will need the code reading again really, as it could be a different fault this time.
  7. I'm not aware of anyone else selling them, I got lucky and got a couple of sets off eBay from a private seller who no longer needed the ones they had bought. Might be worth contacting ACLex on here, he works in the Lexus Poole parts department and gives discount to LOC members.
  8. Do you have windscreen cover on your insurance? A screen itself is around 400 euros, so for a proper windscreen price would be above that. They are bonded in so not an easy job to remove or refit as a DIY job.
  9. There is a pre-cat that aids emmisions during warm up (in the manifold??) which can be removed with no problems (involves cutting the part open, removing the cat material and welding up again). The main cat would need to stay to avoid any emission issues or fiddling/bypassing sensors.
  10. Welcome to LOC In which capacity were you previously employed at Lexus?
  11. Could be a bit tricky. Never done the job myself, mine were spotted as completely shot when the car was being taken off a recovery truck when the head gasket went (I had an idea, when at a stand still with the steering turned, and just edging forward while dapping the brakes, you could feel the play through the steering). The job was done while it was having the head redone. I would guess it is probably a do-able job on axle stands and a couple of trolley jacks.
  12. You have to lower the whole suspension crossmember, which also involves supporting the engine so that you can undo the engine mounts which are connected to the crossmember. Not a small job I'm afraid.
  13. I'll try and find some. If the seraching fails, I'll jack the car up and take some.
  14. When it comes to fitting, it depends. Both Sensor 2's should be relatively straight forward to get to the connector under the carpet in the footwells. As long as the sensor isn't corroded solid, they should come out easily enough. Bank 1 sensor 1 is not bad, if a bit fiddly to get to the connector. Again, corrosion allowing, it should come out. Bank 2 sensor 1 was a real pain on mine. Connector is back under the under tray, so that needs to come off to get to it. The sensor on mine was corroded up very tight, so to get extra space for leverage, I ended up taking the cross member off that runs under it. I guess it can be made slightly easier if you saw/cut the sensor off so that you can get a standard socket or spanner on it. Unless you have O2 sensor sockets or wrenches, I guess you would have to do that anyway (or cut the lead off at least). No idea on any paperclip hacks for code reading, I have a cheap code reader which does the job. Some code readers do trigger a vsc/trc error to come up, there is a paperclip hack for clearing that fault code. If you need it, I can grab the piece of paper I have left in my code reader case. Luckily my reader doesn't cause the vsc error, but the one the guy had that I bought my GS430 from put the lights on when I picked the car up. Caused some concern/panic to start with until I found why it had happened.
  15. Looking at Rick's post it appears that Bank 2 is drivers side. That is correct.
  16. The engine is still the same in the UK or US, so Bank 1 is still the same bank, as is sensor 1 or 2. As long as you order them by bank and sensor, you won't have any problems getting the right one.
  17. Sorry mate, wasn't trying to put you in fear of anything. I thought if a garage changed it, they might mug you off if they had done the wrong one. Looking from the front of the car, cylinder one is the first cylinder on the right hand side (passenger side in the UK). Bank 1 refers to the bank with No1 cylinder in it. Sensor 1 is pre-cat (in the downpipe), sensor 2 is post cat (under seat area). Unfortunately for you, Bank 2 sensor 1 is the drivers side front one, not the passenger side front one that you have changed. Sorry to bring the bad news mate.
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