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TigerFish

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  1. If battery and connections are ok them sounds like the common fault with the starter/solenoid. There is a link in my signature block below to a tutorial I did for overhauling the starter which may help. Getting the starter off the mk1 is pretty tight for space, but doable, and helped if you have plenty of extension bars for your socket set.
  2. Its at 6 o'clock mate. Look at this tutorial I did for the GS, the setup is the same for the LS. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?app=tutorials&article=125
  3. The problem with all of the above is it relies on a complete numpty racing you. If an M5 was indeed racing you, no douche bag is gonna stay in a gear that is p1ss poor, they would drop a couple of cogs and the IS300 is way back in the rear view mirror. It doesn't matter how you cut the numbers, if the race is actually a "proper" race, it is game over for the IS300 against an M5 at any speed.
  4. From what I can tell on the diagrams, and trying to remember what I did, if you split out your blue remote antenna wire from yoiur new stereo and connect it to the three wires: White with red tracer White with blue tracer Black with white tracer You may find that it will extend even if you don't connect all three, You can trail and error the three, they all get voltages applied depending on what source is selected and other combination of selected things on the stereo. Most of these selections are obviously not applicable when a new head unit is being used, so you can just use the wires that suit best.
  5. To be brutally honest, because nobody on here knows you, none of them in reality could give a f*ck if you got done for it or not. Pleading ignorance of knowing the money was there no longer stands, as there is now a cached trail of you admitting it is not yours on facebook and LOC and probably other places too (and more importantly google and other search engines). So whilst it is probably worth risking it for a biscuit, I would be more concerned about your judicial welfare if I actually knew you.
  6. Yup, you can ditch the amp altogether and just unplug all connectors on it. Depending how you do it, You can run new cables across the top of the glove box and just connect them into the "speaker feed" connections on the disconnected plug at the amp. The other way is to connect your new head unit speaker outputs into the factory harness that used to plug into the old head unit (that heas off to the amp), and then bridge the in and out connectors at the amp to "bypass" the amp. Either way will work fine.
  7. Forgot to say, the various leads I bought were to turn the factory harness into ISO, for the stereo and the parrot bluetooth handsfree I was fitting at the same time. I tried to make it as plug and play as possible, but it wasn't possible entirely.
  8. Plug the iso leads into what mate? There are no iso connectors in the car to plug the stereo in to. I bought various toyota/lexus leads and cobbled together an amp by pass cable and main loom connector cable (so that I didn't need to cut off any factory connectors - easily reverted back to stock before I sold the car). The factory unit has line level feeds to the amp, and the amp dishes out the power to all of the speakers. If you don't bypass the amp, you will lose all sound. Or more specifically, you will throw full power audio into the line level amp inputs, which would most likely not impress the amp too much and it would swiftly expire. I should point out, that when I say you need to bypass the amp, that is only if you want to use the factory cabling to the speakers. If you are happy to run new cables, then you can forget the amp side of things altogether. The sub wasn't an issue for me, as I wanted to use my Vibe cbra10 active sub. I removed the sub speaker completely out of the parcel shelf, the hole it left behind creating a port into the car for the Vibe sub in the boot. All in all, with the toyota/lexus connectors I ended up getting, it was all relatively straight forward, and I only ended up with a couple of wires that were just pushed into the exisiting loom connectors for things like the electric aerial (assuming you want the aerial to still go up and down).
  9. Cool, You've done it now... brill... any pictures to share? Any chance you could also post a parts list (Would be a massive help).... I cant wait to do this... Sorry, I may have bowled you a swerve ball there. The pic above was the swap I did on my non sat nav '99 GS300 I used to have, not the sat nav '01 GS430 I now have. There is still the issue of the climate control, but after that, it should be largely the same. The only thing to keep in mind is that on the non satnav cars, the amp is next to the glove box, and that is where any amp bypassing takes place. On satnav cars, there is some wiring to the satnav ecu in the boot that controls muting the music/speaker and doing the voice instructions of the satnav. Not sure what is involved in disabling/bypassing that. The actual physical removal of parts (i.e. I used the space where the factory Cd changer was to keep the ipod etc) is in this thread http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=70884&hl=
  10. Yeah, I changed my non nav mk2 GS300 to aftermarket with reversing camera etc, the problem with the satnav is that the climate control is built into it (with buttons and touch screen control). It is whether a non satnav climate control (like yours already had) can be plugged in instead. I guess it just needs a second hand climate control unit to try it with. From that point on, the factory wiring an be plumbed into and the amp bypassed.
  11. i'm thinking of doing the same in my GS430 Sport, and can only assume the climate control for a non Sat nav car can be plugged in instead. Not got round to sourcing one yet, so can't say whether it will work or not. Once the non sat nav control panel is in, there is then space for a double din head unit underneath.
  12. I rarely stay with an insurer when renewal times come. There is no such thing as loyalty anymore, and they hike the price on the assumption that as they were competitive last year, you will think they will be this year and will just pay it. I'm sure in most cases people just leave the DD running and don't even realise. Bell insurance were great last year but this year they were pants, yet admiral (who are the same company!) came in best. I now have my GS430 and Corrado VR6 both insured for £550, which is less than bell wanted for just the GS.
  13. '96 Mk1 GS300 Sport '99 Mk2 GS300 Sport '01 Mk2 GS430 Sport (current)
  14. Just go to your local Toyota dealer mate, the part numbers for the double din fascia are posted further back in this thread.
  15. There is a set of Tein coilovers on ebay at the moment, £350 or best offer, which is a very decent price.
  16. Yeah, it is a shame with these wheels. The wheels come up for sale quite regular, my mate recently bought a full set on eBay (with caps) for £137, which was a right result. It is just the darn caps that are a pain.
  17. Thats a good result. I guess they just bent the back plates to sort it out? Are you going to do the discs and pads yourself?
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