TigerFish

I use these Philips Vision 4000k LED's. Expensive, but bang on white colour to match the factory hids.

As far as I know, the resistor requirement is to fool bulb failure circuitry as most leds show a higher resistance than standard filement bulbs. This difference makes bulb failure circuits think the bulb has gone open circuit and puts the light on. The resistor sits in parallel with the led and reduces the overall resistance presented to the circuit. I'm not aware of a resistor being needed to make the bulb work in the first place, but I could be wrong.

Welcome to LOC. What year/age is your GS? Do you know when the cam belt was last done (tends to be a sticker in the engine bay with the details).

I'm glad that as this thread draws to a close, we seem to be getting better information going here. The legalities of the labels mean nothing to their usefulness when comparing one thing with another. If you research the process, you will realise that the operating parameters at which the tests are done are inherently flawed when comparing tyres that work at the extremes of the criterias. What they show is perfectly valid, but they are not comparable between two different products. Those being winter and summer tyres. Use the labels to compare like for like, youhave a usefull(ish) indicator, use them to compare different products, and you can come to the incorrect conclusion. What concerned me about previous posts is that someone with a position of influence could tell somebody that they don't need winter tyres because all the experts (a which? journalist is not an expert IMO but that is a different story) have decided they are not worth the expense. The truth is, they work better in winter conditions, and imparting on opinion that they may not help if you don't encounter the conditions they are designed for is one thing, but to categorically insist they are worthless in another. Whether the guy actually needs the winter tyres is not your choice, it is his. If he took your opinion and didn't buy them, crashed his car and that crash could've been avoided with winter tyres, how would you defend your stance? In reality you couldn't, especially if you didn't give a balanced opinion to start with and offer up the fact that they work better in sub 7 degree temps. And no, I am not saying all season/summer tyres become dangerous below those temperatures. What I am saying is that winter tyres work better. Buying a whole replacement car is your choice. Insurance must add some weighting to the cost, but in the end the combined cost may be less than winter tyres, but a car takes up a whole heap more space than a set of tyres. Likewise, are winter tyres a "modification", that seems to be in some cases an urban legend, in others it may be true, but even your which? experts were out on that one. The decision to inform said insurers is again the drivers choice, but I would wager that an insurer would be on dodgy grounds trying to cop out on those grounds, and would lose if taken to court on the matter. Anyways, We seem to starting to agree here to some extent or another.

Have you actually done any research on this? Clearly not as you posted all that clap trap before and it is cobblers. Showing a picture of the label doesn't make it anymore useable or correct than last time you mentioned them. The tests don't test like for like in equal conditions, they are ludicrous. At best you can only use them to compare winters with winters, summers with summers. Now all that aside, taking into account countries where it is law to use winter tyres, are you still saying that they are worse than summer/all season tyres in the conditions they are designed for? Are you really saying that? If you are, then shame on you, as it clearly demonstartes you know nothing about tyres. You can spend as much as you like on a tyre fitting machine, it means nothing about the operators knowledge or ability. Since when was this thread about proving if buying winter tyres has to be endorsed by anybody? None of your sources say they don't work, in fact they say the exact opposite. All your sources are saying is that they dont consider the cost to be worth while given how infrequent we have conditions that truly need them. that is not the same as saying they don't work. If an is200 is rubbish in snow (I can't believe all these posts of yours when you knew this all along), how do you suggest improving it? Buying another car is not the sensible or "normal" answer to that question. Nor is buying a different car to cater for every variable in your life. Show me a source that says you MUST go and buy another car for winter conditions. That is as ludicrous as finding a source that says you MUST buy winter tyres. Nobody HAS to do anything that isn't law. Spouting all thy cobblers about size of house, number of cars is irrelevant. Do they work better in sub 7 degree temps? Yes (that is beyond argument from any source - those daft labels mean nothing for the reasons already covered). Do you need winter tyres below 7 degrees? Maybe... which is not the same as no. As Matt says, even if you found those tyres to be the dogs danglies, you won't ever admit it. oh, and what has all the skid pan rambling got to do with the performance of winter tyres, or any other tyre come to think of it.

Good stuff :)

Couldn't resist reading your post this time... lol.... It was worth it.... not (I won't bother again) You really ought to research before you post. Just to throw one of your own sources back at you http://www.which.co.uk/cars/driving/sat-navs-tyres-and-accessories/winter-tyres/ And then onto the labels. You are not comparing apples with apples. If a tyre is to grip more, it is going to create more friction, that will cause more drag, that will use more fuel, that will give a poorer energy rating. Surely that is bloody obvious. If you look at the tests for wet grip, they can be done anywhere between 5 and 35 degrees for summer tyres, 2 to 20 degrees for winter tyres. Test a winter tyre at 20 degrees and you will be way outside its operating range and stopping power is going to be compromised. Test an all weather tyre at 5 degrees, you are only a couple of degrees out of its range. The temp range is so vast that it makes the results utterly pointless. When they do a label for summer test, and a label for winter test, at diffinitive temperatures, then we can take some notice of them in this discussion. Compare winter with winter, summer with summer, that is all those labels are useful for. Noise.... Don't make me laugh.... I don't give a flying f*ck about the Eco warriors and their noise pollution. Please stop with this nonsense, you really aren't doing yourself any favours.

Typical!

Are the bearings actually gone? Or just the bushes? You can get after market bushes to replace the bushes only. I would be inclined to go for a full cat back rather than a single piece for the extra £50. If one part has gone, some of the others may soon follow. Is it weldable?

Try undoing the petrol cap and then retigthen it. Cap not on properly can put MIL lamp on.

Just realised, posted wrong pics above (GS300 instead of GS430 system) GS430 front half. The arse end is basically the same, if not the same. If it is the centre pipe (not the cat Y-piece), then I would either: Get it welded Buy a custom made cat back system. There is a place in Leeds if they are close enough that does them for £299 last time I looked. Never dealt with them other than price enquiries, www.tonybanks.co.uk.

depends what front of exhaust means really. Can you id the part from these pics? Would need more accurate info on the bearing/hub issue help in whether the whole hib is needed. There are some bushes that can only be bought from Lexus as part of the hub, but I believe they can be bought after market. But need more info to confirm.

Nice result :)

Helps a little, but still annoying http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=79309

Yeah, I find Safari a bit pants so use "Atomic Browser". You can get it to display as standard browser rather than mobile device, which is especially useful on the iPad with the bigger screen (less so on the iPhone but does help where the mobile version of some sites are particularly poor). Tabbed browsing is also much better in Atomic. I have stopped using loc on the iPad due to these bars. I can understand the advertising revenue helps to alleviate costs of running large sites like LOC, but surely there must become a point where the members ability to use the site should come above the poorly deigned advertising mechanisms?

Lexus_EX01, are you doing any weirdness with your posts (colour changes etc) as I've noticed I can't read your posts on a mobile device unless I try and reply quoting your post (I can then see what you wrote in the quoted text)?

lol.... I'm impressed this is still going on. The tests and bumph show unarguably that winter tyres perform better in cold temps and snow. Not sure why that is still being argued about. The choice of whether to use them therefore comes down to: Having the space to store a spare set of wheels (I do) having the money to cover the initial cost. (I did) Have somewhere to do the change over (I do) Have been stuck before (I have - 210 or 300 bhp through 275 tyres is sh*t in snow (gs300 and gs430 figures)) If the owner feels the benefits are worth the outlay (I do) I can see almost no wear in the tyres from the last season. But if there was, it was no more than 1mm based on a visual impression. I never checked tread depth when they were new so can't compare since last season. Based on that, I should get a good four seasons out of them at least - I've no idea what the long term effects would be on the rubber to know if they could go beyond that. Anything or anyone that says they aren't worth it is purely based on someones opinion that they don't think conditions are severe enough, not that they don't work better in the conditions we do get. Now, based on the fact that it is unarguable that they grip better in cold conditions, even if we never get anymore snow, in an emergency braking condition in cold (below 7-8 degrees) weather, they WILL stop better. No brainer if you have the funds/space/inclination to have them. Just my opinion of course, as someone that HAS had and used them.

looks very nice. It also has the black walnut like the Sport, which looks much better inside too.

Welcome to LOC B)

The company isn't called Tena Lady by any chance?

My list... Ford Cortina Mk V 1.6 L Lancia Delta 1.5 Rover SD1 3500 Ford Escort Mk2 1.6 Ghia Vauxhall Droopsnoot Firenza Rover SD1 3500 Ford Capri Mk2 3000 Ghia Rover SD1 3500 (with custom fit Opel Monza bumpers) Ford Capri Mk3 2.8 Injection Lancia Prisma 1.6i.e Ford Capri Mk3 2.8 Injection Rover SD2 3500 Vitesse Citroen BX GTI 16valve Rover SD2 3500 Vitesse Rover 827si ex-met police car Renault Laguna 1.8 Saab 900 BMW 325 Coupe Lexus Mk1 GS300 Sport Lexus Mk2 GS300 Sport Lexus Mk2 GS430 Sport (Current car) Volkswagen Corrado VR6 (Current car)

I think they look good from the pic in the ebay listing.

Ditto Steve for elliminating the wheel bearing from the equation. The scraping can be a few things. One thing you can check which doesn't need the wheels off, is to check that the brake backing plates are not bent out of shape or rusted to the point they are nearly falling off. You can do it with your fingers/hands through the spokes of the wheels.

I guess the torrent of replies nobody knows the answer to the motorola question. Didn't realise the did them that late, I know that's what the old mk1's had as an option. If your 430 isn't a satnav version, you should be able to connect in a parrot bluetooth kit fairly easily with the relevent SOT lead. The satnav bits add additional headaches due to the satnav gubbins in the boot being responsible for fading the stereo audio for the directions. No idea on the RX, but a parrot with the SOT lead should also be an option. SCOSCHE do some kids for later cars, not sure what years though and also look at USASPEC kits.

Unlucky mate. Nice vid though.