TigerFish

Yeah, they can be changed. I had a double din in my GS300 Sport, haven't ported it all over to my GS430 Sport as the 430 has factory satnav so not quite so simple. There is a link in my signature to some of the details of the mk2 GS Double Din install.

Yeah, they are good quality items, I've got one of the GS430 ones.

Glad it is all sorted.

Have you got a picture of what compartment you mean?

Beat sonic do a solution, although not especially cheap. http://beatsonicusa.com/beat-sonic-sla-91.html

Not bad. Although personally, I don't think the rear wheels are wide enough, they need to be much wider to justify those arches.

these wheels are 18"x8,5 but mine are 18"x7,5 and isn´t the center a bit diffrent ? Yeah, they aren't the wheels you are looking for. Those eBay ones are mk1 gs300 Sport wheels.

Good that you are now sorted, and an added bonus that you have two spare led bulbs now as well :)

Bank 1 sensor 1 will be the one closest to the front of the car. No idea on what to check for, but normally the fault code is pretty reliable.

Apart from the headrest monitors, that is exactly what I had done to my mk2 GS300 Sport. If I could find a cheap AC control panel and Satnav bypass cable, that is what I would do again in my mk2 GS430 Sport.

I think they might have something called lookup tables. Oh and what's that other thing called?... Interweb, Internet... something like that anyway. You think they have lookup tables, or know they have lookup tables? The majority don't use the web, they use a telephone, phone, tellingbone.... Something like that..... to call the supplier. The supplier may or may not read out the lookup table they may or may not have :P The tests themselves, the variables are huge (winter tyres can be tested in temps anywhere between 5 and 20 degrees IIRC, summer/all weathers somewhere between 5 and 35 degrees). One end of those ranges to the other would make a huge difference just with the same tyres, let alone different tyres.

What I was trying to say was, as the pipes merge and then split under the car, any oil burning would come out of both pipes, not one side, i.e. the left pipe is not exclusively connected the left bank, if you see what I mean.

Does it have an aftermarket exhaust? They join to a single pipe in the middle and then split again, which would tend to suggest moisture in one side at the rear of the system.

I shall keep my eye out for all those customers in kwik fit climbing up the storage racks so that they can compare the labels on all the tyres they could choose from. I suspect it won't happen somehow. For the majority it will still be whatever is the cheapest or on special offer, for most of the remainder it will come down to what is already on the other three corners, and then the odd few that have a specific favourite.

yeah, typo for sure. Especially as there isn't even a description typed up.

A custom cat back system can be bought for £300, so not worth a trip to the dealers IMO. Cat is relatively cheap also if bought non-dealer.

Ah ok, that's why yours are significantly brighter than standard.

From a legal perspective, 55 watt is the max as far as I know for dipped beams. Anything over is not legal. Never had problems with 100 watt main beams on any car I've owned, even on old capri's and such like.

Never noticed a significant change on the cheaper brands. The colour makes things look different, even if not significantly brighter. You are better looking at the higher performing bulbs for better light output for the same wattage. I use Osram Nightbreakers in my Corrado VR6, they are an excellent OEM type upgrade IMO (and have a nicer output colour too).

I'm afraid I'm no help on gen 3 cars, so someone with such a car would have to advise on the quote and what is involved with the service schedule. Plugs aren't cheap though, not on any of the models, old or new.

The "Xenon" halogen bulbs are a better colour than standard halogens, and look 10x better than standards. But when run side by side proper hid lights (in main beams/fogs etc), they will still look yellow compared to the hids.

Looking forward to seeing some day light pics. I think,although not positive, that the wiper stalk can be removed seperately from the whole switch body and spiral cable without having to remove the steering wheel. That should just be a case of removing the upper and lower shroud and using the replacement item as a guide for what to remove/undo. If not, the steering wheel will have to come off, which involves removing the airbag first. Disconnect the battery and leave for 5 minutes before touching the airbag. There are two torx bit screws from the rear of the wheel holding it on. Once the airbag is off, store it face up, not face down. As a side note, If you are disconnecting the battery, ensure there isn't a security code set on the stereo. To confirm if a code is set, switch the ignition on, and turn the stereo on. If "SEC" is shown momentarily on the display, a code is set and you will need to know it so that you can enter it when the power is restored. It is user defined at the point of setting the code, so you will need to know it as there is no default. If "SEC" isn't shown, no code is set and there is no need to worry.

I've used that type before, and they worked fine in my GS.

Yeah, they are (well £20'ish quid). But they are a perfect match. No other leds that I have tried come close. I have tried dozens of typres and they are always bluer than the headlights.

It sounds to me like they have come to the wrong conclusion about the code. P0420 is "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)" which tends to mean that the readings before and after the cat (from the pre and post cat sensors) are too similar to show that the cat is being effective. It would normally point to the cat being buggered or a leaking exhaust. The codes for problem O2 sensors would generally be in the P01xx range IME.