TigerFish

That's a shame. Is veggie much cheaper than LPG? Good luck with the sale.

Never heard of that before. Have you tried disconnecting the battery again for 5 mins and then reconnect? I'll have a dig around.

Sounds like you need change the thermostat.

Should look good B)

I've got a set of winter tyres/wheels on my GS430 Sport, never hit any problems with the snow so far, and they are significantly better in the low temps as well. Definately worth the investiment IMO. Snow mode helps, and also turning off VSC can help sometimes help too.

Indeed. Sorry, I wasn't implying it didn't just that the effect is to dull the throttle. Which it does by altering the response of the pedal, and starting in 2nd gear.

as above, it dulls the throttle so that take off can be more gentle to help avoid wheelspin etc.

Agree with above. It is very easy to dismiss them and if you have the luxury of "staying at home", then that is fine. Of course, if you aren't at home, and can't get home, that is a different story. They are worth every penny (even without snow - even more so with) but sadly there will always be the haters, and not generally for any good reason. Plus there are those that don't have the money or the space for them, which is a shame, but that doesn't make them pointless.

Yeah, I run winter tyres on my GS430 Sport, well worth the investment.

Partly depends what the number is on front of the stereo. There is a master reset code of 891440 Suitable for P6802.P1701 and 588410 Suitable for N404 the process to follow is: 1, Press top of button "TUNE" with button 1 depressed, "----" will be displayed, now input any 3digit code and press button "SCAN" 3 seconds, "ERR" will be displayed. Repeat 10 times until "HELP" displayed. 2, Press button 1,4,6 & the switch button at one time, "SEC" re displays. Press top of button "TUNE" with button "1" depressed, and input the first 3digit code 891 when "----" displayed. After inputting first 3digit code, Press bottom of button "TUNE" with button "1" depressed, "----" re displays, input the last 3digit code 440 and press "SCAN" for 3 seconds until "OK" displayed. Now can be normally operated on reset. The numbers to press are obviously as per the radio models mentioned before the procedure. If the number on your stereo isn't any of those above, then it won't work. The actual code set on your stereo is user defined when it is enabled, so there isn't a way of getting the actual code that has locked yours. If the previous owner didn't set it, and they don't know it, that is bad luck really. Some dealers set the code as the last 6 of the chassis number, so you could try that. If all else fails, I do have two mk1 head units sat in my garagae still from when I had my old mk1.

Just thank your lucky stars you weren't selling a low mileage LS400, lots of forum members would've been all over you..... lol

Been the same on my mk1 and mk2 GS300, and also my mk2 GS430. None of the cars actually clear water from the window when they are wound down, bar random patches (unlike all other cars I have had) so I suspect the fact they don't contact the windows fully, grit can easily lodge in the seals. Bit of a design flaw in my opinion.

They should all be labelled on the fusebox lids mate. It is in the main fusebox under the bonnet, but not sure which slot.

Yeah, that is the right process to reset the srs light. Persistance will pay off.... lol Sorry, missed out a crucial word there, it should be "ECU-B fuse". No idea what the link is specifically for, just that it needs removing to carry out the code reading.

Code 22 on the SRS system means an issue with the warning lamp circuit. Which comes down to bulb (obviously ok if it flashes), wiring harness (to the bulb at least must be OK if it flashes - but could be bad connection elsewhere) and the control unit (called the centre airbag sensor assembly) which is located under the centre console. It probably needs to be cleared 1st just to make sure it isn't a red herring like the ecu ones. No idea what you are talking about the "wire dance", what exactly are you doing mate? When you are checking the abs codes, are you removing the shorting pin on the diagnostic socket under the bonnet? Also, the code clearing has to be done before putting that link back in. For the cruise, constant flashing means no errors. Try clearing the codes and see if it reverts back to normal or registers any new codes (Remove ECU-B fuse for atleast 10 seconds). Edit: added the word "fuse" above so it made sense!

When you checked the O/D lamp flashes, did you jumper TE1 and E1 (rather than TC and E1 for the ABS and SRS)? If it is the VSS2 code, both VSS2 and VSS1 are located either side of the back end of the gearbox (near the prop). Out of the two, VSS2 is the one nearer the front of the gearbox. I think the cruise control uses VSS1, but if both VSS's fail, the gearbox limits to 1st gear only, so that would tend to suggest that VSS1 is going to be ok and that the cruise issue is not speed sensor related.

What codes are being flashed on the SRS light? What codes are being flashed by the cruise control lamp? The cruise control doesn't use any of the abs sensors, for the speed, it uses the speedo sender from the gearbox, so the fault won't be related to the abs lamp. The ABS codes can be erased by jumpering pins Tc and E1 in the diagnostic connector, then switch ignition on and press and release the brake pedal 8 times within three seconds. Recheck the codes are cleared and then see what new codes are registered after a drive around. What codes are then flashing on the ABS light if any?

In all honesty, this kind of mod isn't one I would recommend. In reality, if the sensor is "thought" to be suspect by the ecu, it will default an intake temp of 20 degrees. I guess the designers thought this would be a sensible compromise to to allow decent performance of the overall system while it is rectified, not a sonstant on going operating mode. The apparent BHP gains the £20 ebay purchases (as quite rightly pointed out being a 20p resistor) is designed to fool the car into thinking it is colder than it is (some work like this, others work in similar fashion but working more cruedly on engine temp, rather than air temp) and therefore supposedly add more fuel to mix with the colder denser air. Sounds good, and possibly might be, if it wasn't for the fact that the ecu will monitor the lambda sensors and see that there is too much fuel to be burnt properly and adjusts everything to compensate. The net result is no gain, but not because the ecu is running everything optimally, but because it is constantly trying to correct itself. If you end up putting it so far out of its correctable range, and this could then cause other issues, such as premature failure of the cats. With LPG, these inconsistencies could be even more catastrophic. Each to their own in the end.

It should re-adapt if anything changes but if in doubt, reset anyway.

No specific reason to reset the ecu, only if you want the gearbox to relearn from scratch. Shouldn't cause any issues to the stereo/sat Nav though.

I would get the battery replaced as a first port of call. I doubt the check engine light is related directly, i.e. the cause of these issues, it could be caused by the issues though.

All going in the right direction :)

Had a few fords myself over the years, loved them all in one way or another. My 1st car was a 1600 MkV Cortina bought at an auction in Leeds. Also had a mk2 Escord 1600 Ghia from an auction in Leicester. Non auction fords were a mk2 Capri 3000 Ghia, and a couple of mk3 2.8 injection Capri's.

Welcome to LOC B)

This link should help http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?app=tutorials&article=104 Don't forget this general area for GS guides etc. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?app=tutorials&cat=4