TigerFish

It would seem unlikely that both fobs are screwed. You could try resetting the fob. Sit in the drivers seat with the fob held over the center console, remove the fob battery and press the lock button for 10 seconds (to fully drain down any residual charge in the fob). Put the battery back in (maybe try a new battery at the same time). Try the fob. I believe they are rolling codes, so maybe they have gone out of sync. The reset should help with that. You could try a basic resync, try keeping the unlock button pressed for a few seconds, let go, do it again, then press as normal to see if it resyncs. If the AC lamp now stays on solidly (no flashing), then that would suggest any fault has cleared itself (or temporarily atleast). If it doesn't blow proper cold when the lamp is lit continuously, then I would suspect a regas is in order (but do the diagnosis process I posted above first to make sure there are no fault codes still). That doesn't mean it will stay gassed of course, for it to have been lost, it would have to have gone somewhere which would normally mean a leak. It is possible someone let it out, I have seen someone on here suggest bleeding the system by undoing the valve caps and depressing the valves (there are two, a high pressure side valve, and a low pressure side valve). They recon'ed the hissing was an air lock being bled out, it was of course the refridgerant being let out!

Welcome to LOC B) Nice pickup, same colour as my old mk1 GS300 Sport. I must admit, when I first got mine, I wasn't a fan of the two tone brown/cream interior. But once I got used to it, the other interiors (grey ones) looked really dull and boring! Lots of things could be the problem on the AC, most common would be a leak and therefore no refridgerant. First off you can try a reset of the ECU, pull "ECU-B" fuse for 10 seconds in the main engine bay fuse box. If the fault returns, try: INDICATOR CHECK 1. Turn the ignition switch on while pressing the air conditioning control AUTO switch and R/F SW simultaneously. 2. Check that all the indicators light up and go off at 1 second intervals 4 times in succession. 3. Check that the buzzer sounds when the indicators light up in 2. HINT: • After the indicator check is ended, the diagnostic trouble code check begins automatically. • Press the OFF switch when cancelling the check mode. DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CHECK (SENSOR CHECK) 1. Perform an indicator check. After the indicator check is completed, the system enters the diagnostic trouble code check mode automatically. 2. Read the code displayed on the panel. Refer to the list of codes on page AC–20 when reading the trouble codes. (Trouble Codes are output at the temperature display.) If the slower display is desired, press the A/C switch and change it to step operation. Each time the A/C switch is pressed, the display changes by 1 step. HINT: • If the buzzer sounds when a trouble code is being read, it means the trouble indicated by that trouble code continues to occur. • If the buzzer does not sound when a trouble code is being read, it means the trouble indicated by that trouble code occurred earlier (such as poor connector contacts, etc.). Codes: Failing all that, get the refridgerant/system leak checked. Selector bulbs are just a case of removing the center console panel and changing the two bulbs in the panel. I describe the panel removal in this tutorial I did for the main AC panel illumination (albeit I didn't go into detail for the bulbs for the selector). http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/43145-ac-control-bulb-change/ A couple of additional shots regarding the selector bulbs themselves Does the light come on for the heated rear screen and do the heated mirrors still work? Check fuses "Guage" (powers the rear screen relay), and the "DEFOG" fuse (powers rear screen and also feeds the "MIR–HTR" fuse for the mirror heater circuit). (In the footwell fuse box(es)). Failing that, a multimeter on the actual connections to the rear screen to trace the wiring. From what I remember, the wiring running by the arrow on your pic is one of the main looms heading towards the rear of the car. There will be a whole load of different things in there. For the fob, if the light isn't coming on when the button is pressed, I would suspect a shagged button on the fob.

Yeah you're right Stuart but I actually want Tony to set my car up, after meeting him and chatting to him. What he doesn't know about car geometry isn't worth knowing! Just be aware that it won't necessarily be Tony doing your car, he isn't always there or isn't always free to do all alignments. The other chaps there know what they are doing though :)

Looking good mate.

So its not the PCD that is the problem. Still don't see that the spigot rings will make any difference to the wheels sitting flat/square on the hub. Could the hubs be warped, I have heard of that problem on the IS.

Must admit, if a spigot ring is required, and it is missing, it wouldn't stop the wheel sitting flat/square on the hub once the nuts are done up. Only if the wheel bore was smaller than the hub would it stop the wheel fitting. Is the PCD of the wheel correct for the IS?

What Dave said. Can't comment on the standard GS430 suspension, but the "Sport" models have lowered stiffer suspension, but still not a harsh ride.

Prices on this link are reasonable and you will also be able to find out what the latest map available for your system is. i.e. the latest available for my GS is the 2009/2010 update, there were none done since for my satnav version. http://www.lexus-mapupdates.eu/Home/Index

Very sad news indeed :(

Try putting the key in the ignition and to the "on" position but don't try and crank. Leave it in that position for 5 minutes, switch off and then try to start. This is the same process to follow if the battery has been disconnect.

No warranty on a £10k car, I would walk away just based on that. Also sounds very odd that Lexus would pass on a Lexus used car, I can understand them passing on other marquees straight away, but not a Lexus (unless there was something very expensive wrong with it - hence no warranty offer)

The problem is the IS has power fold mirrors already (with a switch), and I believe the guy above does the electricary to hook into the alarm (like Geoffers used to do on the old IS). The gen2 GS doesn't have the motorised fold, so without swapping out for powerfold mirrors in the first place, which are very rare, there's nowt to hook into the alarm. I don't really get why they never had them, but even the gen1 GS only got them in JDM market (no idea on the Gen3's).

https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/info/my-lexus/resources/owners-manual-search.do

I think after the first couple of times, I'd have started folding them manually by now.... lol. Good luck with the search, none on eBay at the moment. p.s. you need to look on eBay.com (united states) and not eBay.co.uk, never seen them on the UK site.

fleabay = eBay Lexus won't do them, but you may be able to order through Toyota (for the Aristo rather than GS300). However, expect to pay more than the car is worth for the full factory setup from the main dealers. There will be the powerfold mirrors, switch unit, mirror ecu and any associated wiring. You could buy an awful lot of after market mirror glasses before you came anywhere close to the expense of new powerfolds. Let us know the cost if you can get the prices from Toyota, would be fun to know how much it would be.

Would really help if you can find out the fault code, or part they mentioned would need to be replaced.

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Only place I've seen them is used ones from fleabay in the states. Funds never available when they crop up unfortunately.

You have let yourself in for a whole heap of.......... fun ;) Great car B)

Car looks great, nice job B)

Good stuff :)

I found my fobs to be pants on my mk1 GS from a range perspective. Batteries never cured them and I assumed it was the design of the fobs (they aren't the same as the IS ones or the later GS ones). One handy trick, which sounds daft but does work on most radio frequency remotes (even works on the remote plug sockets I have in the garage for my pond lights) is to hold the fob against your chin when you press the button.... and no, it isn't the 1st april, it does work.

good news it was an easy fix :)

I use k&n ones, never had any issues and they are a doddle to remove due to the nut on the end of the can to use a spanner on, no fart arsing around with filter wrenches.