TigerFish

The GMAX lowering spring kits on eBay are decent value for money. About £120 inc postage for a full set of springs.

What are the current tyre sizes you have on? If they are too skinny, but the right profile for the wheel, you may have to drop wheel size.

Welcome to LOC B) They look like aftermarket wheels, not aero wheels. Nice looking motor, just needs dropping an inch or two ;)

Yup, very true. I ran an active sub in the boot, which gave a much punchier sound B)

They are for the mk1, I believe the OP's is a mk2.

Lithium soap grease is the official stuff Lexus use, the comma lithium cv grease is the same thing.

Never tried using the stock amp, I bypassed it when I did my mk2 GS300 Sport double din install.

If your local motor factors can't get them, then it will be a breakers or Lexus/Toyota.

Agree with above, front yes, rear is part of the outer CV joint on the drive shaft.

Not bad at all

Ah ok, it only shows your post count as the three you have done on this thread. Lets hope the GS leads to as few posts.... lol

Were you a different username on the forum originally?

Welcome to LOC B) Nice buy :)

Very nice looking rims. Get some wet look tyre dressing on and then it will look really mint B)

Nice job B)

P0135 is the O2 sensor heater circuit, bank 1 sensor 1, which should be the one in the manifold in the engine bay towards the front of the engine. Check the wiring first, after that, it's a new sensor. Did you mean P0135 for the second code? Or P0155, that would be bank 2 sensor 1, the other sensor in the engine bay towards the back of the engine.

A bit of a pain in all hoesty, but patience and persistance is the key. Once you start there is no going back though. I used a large screw driver through the bulb hole to break up the amber "cup" that is inside. Then long nose pliers to get the bits out. It is screwed on inside, so it take a decent amount fo effort to break it up. The only other way would be to either heat the unit up to melt the glue that holds the clear lense to the case to open it up, or use a dremel or simlar to cut the clear lense off. Then unscrew the amber cup from the case, and glue the lense back on. The way I did it, I guess if you were a gynecologist by trade, it would be a doddle.....

I didnt do a tutorial but I did de-tango mine

Welcome to LOC B)

Good result B)

How many miles a year do you do?

Duplicate post :(

Is the high level brake light working correctly? The light coming on when the pedal is pressed would still tend to slant it towards one of the brake lights, even of it is slightly dodgy connection or old bulb on one.

Kind of depends with the main and fogs. I tried hids in the main beams (9005) on mine, and the warm up time when first switched on (gets better if main be stays on for a while and only switch off for short periods) meant you got no benefit initially, so proved to be cr&p for me. So it really depends on the how busy the back roads around you are. Only reason I can think to swap fogs is for the colour match, but unless you cruise with them on, who will see? Yellow (yellower) is better for fog penetration anyway, so they are counter productive from a performance perspective. For led sidelights, the cheap LEDs are too blue (even the white ones) so don't match the headlamp temp at all, but the more expensive Philips 6000k 501 LEDs are excellent, but are about £20 for a pair (well worth it IMO).

HB4 is the wrong bulb type. I'll double check later but it is either 9005 or 9006 bulb type (the car has both, one for main, one for dip, just any remember which way round off the top of my head). Edit: Bit of a senior moment there, HB4 is 9006 .... lol. For some reason, the pic in the ebay listing looked like the dual filement type on my iphone. On the laptop it look better.