TigerFish

On my mk2 GS, there is a calibration option in the satnav menus so that it can reset itself to compensate for tyre wear etc, maybe yours needs to so that?

Excellent result B)

You could try a company called BigRed (not sure on spelling, might be 2 G's or something). They do refurb kits, which include that kind of thing.

MrsEgg is going to be learning in it. It's gonna get *battered* :.( lol.... I can see where you are coming from. Luckily, you are in Yorkshire, so thankfuly it won't be one of my cars she will be battering into Mind you, I would find a different instructor, as they should be teaching "not to collide with anything", not "expect to collide with everything"

I would go for "A" personally. Actually, no, that's not entirely true, I would probably miss out the whole older one bit and just go for the 2001 car

Welcome to LOC. What has it had done to it already?

Yeah, agree with Colin, some of the front suspension is the same, everything else is different. Also agree a 2001 is a mk2, albeit they had a minor face lift at that point.

It depends what the fault is Colin. Not all ECU's clear down on a battery disconnect, the ABS one definately doesn't, even when changing a duff wheel sensor to a good one, the only way to clear the codes is to do the reset procedure (I had to do that a couple of week ago when I changed an ABS sensor). Not entirely sure on the VSC ECU, but when I had the light on mine, it would go off when you switch ignition off and back on, as soon as the car moved off, the lights would come back on.

Yeah, if you disconnect the battery, you need to put ignition key in and turn it to the "on" position (don't try and start it) and leave it like that for 5 minutes. Then take the key out, put it back in and it should then start fine.

If it was triggered by the code reader, you can reset it by bridging two of the pins in the OBDII connector under the dash, you need to bridge pins 4 and 14 Procedure is: Ignition off bridge pins ignition on (do not start the engine) Leave on for 30 seconds ignition off remove bridge Check that lights are now extinguished. If you don't want to do it yourself, if you are close enough to me in Basingstoke (on the mobile app, you can't see posters locations even if you have for it on your profile), pop round and I'll do it for you.Agree with Colin re: the alarm. Could be a poor battery, but also large metallic objects left in the centre console area can play havoc with the alarm for some reason.

They've done a nice job on those

Not a fan of the debadge on the rear, but we can't all like the same things.

Sorry mate, that isn't my car. It may have been TDI that produced them, but no idea where you would get one other than keep looking on some of the IS/Altezza forums.

You'd be surprised how easy they are to snap. A long breaker bar would snap one with very little effort. The wheel is much stronger than a stud.

Never had any issues with the wheel bolts on any of my GS's. Maybe over tightened at some point by some tyre fitters and their air ratchets.

Pics look good, nice way to update them a bit :)

Good find, they are indeed very rare nowadays and no longer available.

Yeah, those two lights can be triggered by some code readers (of course abs sensor faults etc would trigger them also, but would put the abs lamp on too). It would seem odd that an 02 sesor would kick in the the brake system type fault lamps (ABS and VSC ones) rather than the check engine, maybe the code reader that read the O2 sensor triggered them on. Worth trying a reset first. The reset procedure for the VSC lamps is in this link http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/76133-2004-gs300-vsc-and-vsc-off-lights-on/

Agree with Colin, the buttons on the steering wheel are the e-shift buttons for the gear shifts. They become active when you put the gear stick to the "M" position. Was on all GS300's from 01 onwards. Always annoyed me that they didn't fit the feature to the 430's. No idea on the the antenna, but does look like the mobile phone option. Never had one on my 99 GS300 Sport or my 01 GS430 Sport.

Some cone setups just fit on the intake somewhere in the engine bay. This means that once the engine has warmed up and engine bay is full of hot air (from the engine and exhaust manifolds), the cone filter is just sucking in hot air. Hot air is less dense than cold air, so less air to mix with fuel and therefore possibly reducing efficiency. Some aftermarket ones have some panels which help shield the cone from the engine bay, and use the factory cold feed to keep the air cooler going into that space. in the 1st pic, just hot air from the engine bay 2nd pic shows a cone kit with the shield. This one is particularly thorough, but tHey can be made quite easily yourself.

Lol.. £100 for the stuff left on the floor seems a good deal. I think if they were inside the lamp, they would look better, but I think either each LED needs to be bigger with a bigger space, or it needs to be a single solid line. Always worth a play about though if it is only a few quid :)

Yes, i agree that technically they would, but not to the extent that you should notice them constantly moving up and down. They are designed to level based on if you have weight distribution between back/front, i.e. passengers or a trailer for instance, going over bumps isn't a long enough height change for them to keep up or constantly react, so seeing them "adjusting a lot" as you are driving along should be a sign of problems.

Nice idea, but not my cup of tea.

That's interesting, maybe they did some work since the pics? I could see a large dent above the drivers wheel arch (a decent sized shunt at the front that has buckled the wing?), The front bumper is completely shot and not fitting the shut lines of the wings anymore, washers missing, wheels badly corroded and discoloured. Dent in boot lid, rust on bootlid, a large mark above passenger wheel arch (but can't make out what it is from those pics), Something on the sill on the drivers side (again, can't make it out fully from the pics), front and rear disc corroded, so not seen much use when those photos were taken.

No, they shouldn't be going up and down all the time while driving. There are two height sensors, one on the front suspension, one on the rear, so that it can work out what level to aim the lights. Sounds like one of your sensors is shot (they can rust up and eventually give out).