TigerFish

if you look under the bonnet on the drivers side suspension turret, you should find the vin plate. one set of numbers is split into groups and the 1st group, identified as "C", is a 3 digit code, that is the colour code. 1c0 for millenium silver metallic, or 8m6 for Spectra blue for example.

Can't help specifically on the speaker specs I'm afraid. On my mk2 GS300 the only things I did were replace the head unit with double din setup, bypass the amp, remove the sub from the rear shelf and use my own sub in the boot. The factory speakers performed really well with the after market gear.

EML/CEL are the same thing, just depends what you are used to. CEL = Check Engine Light.

this is like the one I have. Reads my GS430 no problem, couldn't read my 99 GS300 but that was because pre 2000 GS's aren't OBD2 compliant. Worked fine on an 2000 IS200 when I helped another member out on here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D900-Universal-Car-OBD2-EOBD-CAN-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool-/121144709680?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c34c99230

I know it isn't always a good idea to call the dealers, but for some of these kind of items they "can" be pretty competetive. For my roof bars, they were being sold off cheap at the time, so worked out a good deal. You might hit it lucky, you never know.

2003 models will already ahve the upgraded brake booster so you shouldn't need to worry about that particular item. Not really that much on the weak points, but if there are any it would be: brakes - binding calipers and slide pins are a common issue on nearly all "older" Lexus models. Check for vibration on steering and odd wheels feeling warmer to the touch than the others suggesting excess heat from binding. Front Top wishbones. Not really a common issue, but after market replacement ones can be a bit suspect, and genuine items are expensive. Anti roll bar bushes. Characterised by thud/clunk at low speed over uneven ground. Cheap and easy fix. Dodgy LCD segments on non Nav stereo head units. If EML/CEL light is on, get it read before commiting to buying. Even if you buy a reader before hand (less than £30 - money very well spent). Missing centre caps on alloys (especially Sport models). Don't get conned into accepting that you can get a replacement from the dealers. You can't, they are discontinued and hence uber expensive when they come up second hand. Not much else I can think of off the top of my head. Both my Gen 2 GS's have been very good.

Good result so far. I would definately recommend getting yourself a cheap code reader, well worth every penny.

Welcome to LOC B) Looks like a tidy motor :)

What was wrong with the aerial? The mast can be purchased seperately if the motor can be heard and it is just it doesn't extend/retract properly.

I've owned a GS300 Sport and a GS430 Sport and fuel consumption wise they are very close. Can't comment on the ride of the Sport v Non-Sport models as I've never driven one. The Sports aren't what i'd class as harsh rides though, compared to other cars I've had that have been harsh.

From what I understand, they stopped, and then re-introduced them 2003, or maybe it could be dealer options on earlier cars, an then a more "official" model later. I have a 2001 Sport, and not had any issues, and the V5 says "GS430 Sport Auto".

What colour was the smoke from the exhaust? I.e. Grey, white, brown, bluey colour, that kind of thing. As mentioned, defo get the actual fault codes before heading down the engine change route. You can get a code reader for under £30 on eBay to read the codes yourself, a wise £30 for any owner. If you were closer, I'd read the codes off (maybe another LOC member that is closer has a reader?). Anyway, welcome to LOC and good luck with the new car, I'm sure between us we we will get you sorted out.

Hi James, I'm not entirely following what you have tried as far as the procedure I describe is concerned. From what you are saying (What I am interpreting), you are trying to read a code, and because the abs lamp flashes when you short the pins, you think you are not able to read the vsc fault (because you want to see the vsc lamp flashing). Is that what you are saying? This reset procedure isn't trying to read any codes, only reset the ecu and remove anything stored that is vsc related (note that the abs system does form part of the vsc function so they are related in some cases). You have to have the ignition off, short the two relevent pins together, ignition on (for at least 30 seconds) - do not start the car , ignition off, and remove shorting link. The lights should then stay off, there are no fault codes to be retreived, so ignore any lamps that are flashing. This does of course assume that it is the code reader that the garage used to read your oxy sensor fault that triggered the vsc lights.

This is my turorial on the mk1, the mk2 is the same except the fans are electric so the fan isn't connected to the front of the water pump. Makes life a little easier for changing the belt on the mk2. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/tutorials/article/168-gs300-auxilaryfan-belt-renewal/

The boot button is actually there on the other keys too, if you buy a three button case and swap over the inards, the boot button will work ;)

Yup, RHD or LHD makes no difference. Although bank 1 is to do with cylinder 1, not the drivers position. This link should help http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/tutorials/article/174-lexus-gs430-lamda-sensor-locations/

The knock could be anti-roll bar bushes so worth checking those out. Cheap fix if they have seen better days.

GMAX springs will give you the "sport" drop in ride height, at a very good price ;)

GMAX springs are decent and a very good price. I'd go for the spoiler too, but that's because I don't like the GS shape without it. All down to personal taste in the end I guess.

Good stuff :)

there are a couple of fuses involved, the 20 amp "WASHER" fuse, which also covers the normal screen washers, and the 40 amp "H-LP CLN" fuse.

Ah, that was what I was after seeing. Some fault code readers trigger the vsc & trc lights, and they can be reset as follows. Procedure is: Ignition off bridge pins (using an opened up paperclip or similar short pins Ts and CG on the connector under the dash on the drivers side.) ignition on (do not start the engine) Leave on for 30 seconds ignition off remove bridge Check that lights are now extinguished.

Nice B) Good effort with the centre caps, should tide you over whilst trying to get a proper set together.

Not a bad price that Dave :)

A long as you are comfortable driving with no stability or traction control you should be fine. Was anything done on the car that could've triggered it, or did it jut come on all of a sudden?