TigerFish

Disclaimer: As always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines. One thing that was really annoying me was when driving at low speeds, the slightest bump would give a rattling noise from the front of the car. The culprit being the worn/rusted slide pins allowing the caliper to move slightly and the metal on metal ,slide pin and caliper mount, clanking together. Tools required (excluding wheel removal): 1. Large screwdriver or lever 2. 17mm open ended spanner 3. 14mm ring spanner 4. Copper grease 5. Hammer 6. 21mm socket 7. flat blade screwdriver or chisel. OK, now down to the nitty gritty. Jack up vehicle and support on axle stands, please see this topic for wheel removal etc --> clicky 1. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary it made photographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case. top. bottom 2. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly. 3. Now remove the caliper 4. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand). for the rest of the overhaul, I have removed the caliper mount to make it easier to photograph 5. The caliper mount showing the dust boot. The slide pins just pull out. If the grease has hardened, they can be hard to budge. A bit of penetrating oil helps free them up a bit and aid removal. 6. We need to remove and renew the boot if it is damaged or split. I used an old chisel and a hammer to remove. 7. Now we need to put the new dust boot on. For this you need to thread the rubber boot into a 21mm socket. Make sure the whole of the rubber part is inside the socket and the socket is resting on the metal washer. 8. Now offer up the socket and boot to the caliper mount and using a hammer gently tap it in. Be careful that you don't catch the rubber boot between the socket and washer/caliper mount. 9. Now the new slide pins. One is referred to as the Main slide, the other as the sub. Not sure why but there you go, the "main" is the one with the indent around the tip. This will hold the bush, which is just a rubber ring in reality and is slipped over the "main" slide pin, 10. Now just apply lithium grease to the pin and slide it in. Re-assembly is just the reverse of the removal. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs). Any questions, please shout. Part numbers for fronts: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Part numbers for rears: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Disclaimer: AS always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines. Tools required (excluding wheel removal): 1. Breaker Bar (only required if changing discs) 2. 1/2 inch drive rachet (optional) 3. Large screwdriver or lever 4. 17mm open ended spanner 5. 14mm ring spanner 6. Copper grease 7. Piston retraction tool (g-clamp or anything similar for pushing the pistons back). 8. 17mm socket (not pictured) OK, now down to the nitty gritty. I will do the whole thing including wheel removal just incase someone doesn't know how to do it. 1. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) wheel nuts before jacking up the car. 2. Open the bonnet and remove brake fluid resevoir cap 3. Jack up the car and support on axle stands. 4. Remove wheel nuts and remove wheel to expose the brakes 5. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary but made phtographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case. You can just remove the bottom bolt and pivot the whole caliper up around the top pin, because I am going to remove the disc too I will remove the caliper completely. top. bottom 6. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly. 7. Now remove the caliper 8. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand). 9. Now the pads can be removed. Take off the two springs that span across the disc between the pads. And pull the pads out from the front and rear. 10. Push back the pistons. I use a retraction tool but you can use alsorts, g-clamps, bits of wood, whatever. This is where removing the resevoir cap in step two comes into place. Keep an eye on the fluid level as you retract the pistons. If the resevoir is going to overflow, draw off some of the fluid from the resevoir (i use a syringe for this). If the fluid has not been topped off as the pads wear, you shouldn't get any overflow. 11. Now We can go about removing the disc. Obviously if you are only changing pads, you can skip the next few steps. Using a 17mm socket and the breaker bar undo and remove the caliper mount bracket. These bolts are darn tight, so although the breaker bar is not mandatory, it makes the job a whole lot easier 12. Remove the mount 13. The discs are not fastened to the hub (not on the GS anyway) so the disc will come straight off. Re-assembly is the reverse of the removal with the exception of using the copper grease in various places. This is not mandatory but it will help reduce/illiminate brake squeel. Apply a small amount between the disc and hub surfaces. Also apply to the piston faces and bwteen the pads/shims/calipers. Make sure you do not get any grease on the pad surfaces. Don't forget to put the springs back on tht link the pads. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs) Caliper mount to hub bolts are 118 Nm (87 ft lbs) Once everything is back together and the wheel goes back on, tighten the wheel nuts in the sequence shown below, torqued to 103 Nm (76 ft lbs) I hope this tutorial helps somebody. Any questions, please feel free to ask.

Disclaimer: As always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines. This was on my GS430 Sport, the GS300's are exactly the same, the IS and LS I would expect to be very similar. Tools I would recommend: Trolley Jack Axle stands x 2 1/2" drive Ratchet handle 10mm Socket 12mm Socket Phillips screwdriver 1. Jack up the front of the car and put on axle stands. To do this job you will need BOTH wheels fully off teh ground, or BOTH fully on the ground. The anti-roll bar will be twisting if you only have one wheel off, and you seriously don't want to undo the bush brackets under those circumstances. 2. You will now see the under tray below the engine compartment. The antiroll bar is behind this so it needs to be removed. 3. There are numerous screws holding the panel in place. Use a 10mm socket to loosen them, and a phillips screwdriver to make the complete removal quicker. 4. Belly pan off 5. The antiroll bar, bush and brackets are now visible (both sides look the same) 6. Use the 12mm socket to undo the two bolts holding the bracket on 7. The bracket coming off and the exposed bush. 8. To remove the bush, they have a big split in them so that they can be opened up and pulled off the bar. 9. The bush off 10. Old and new bush 11. The old and new on top of each other. You can see the lip half way down the hole where the new one has a smaller hole than the old one. Explains why mine were knocking 12. Reassembly is just the reversal of the steps above. 13. Go for a drive and relish the knock free silence over small lumps and bumps