TigerFish

I turned into Tower Street behind you from Osmaston Road on Sunday evening. The tezza had the rear foglamp conversion to side lights (not the dual conversion to brake lights though from what I could tell).

You don't have to take the callipers off. If you are brushing the paint on just paint carefully, if spraying just mask verything off.

Sorry mate, can't help but if the soarer gear is cheap enough I would just buy it and see. if it is a no goer, then bung them back on ebay again.

Cheese and Onion for walkers crisps. Fave all time crisp is pickled onion Monster Munch B)

I have PM'ed you my email address mate. If you send me the PDF I will host it on my server and you can link to it on here.

As the rest have said, a quick easy DIY job. I used spray acrylic paint from Halfrauds as it had a 20 minute drying time compared to hammerites couple of hours. Masked off the discs etc and nice easy job. Applied the chrome Lexus calliper stickers and then sprayed a clear top coat. Took about an hour per axle.

I've also got a load of aquarium/pond stuff for sale on ebay at the moment (see my post in the buy and sell forum), although most of it is pick up only which might count them out. More stuff like heaters, lights will be listed next weekend.

Definately go for the largest tank that you can afford/accomodate as this does make life easier and the tank conditions will tend to stay more stable. The larger the volume of water, the less it can be swayed quickly by such things as a failing heater etc. For a tank that is 60 litres, just under 14 gallons, you can aim for the general rule of thumb (only applies to small fish) of 1" of fish per gallon. This would take into account the full grown size of the fish, not the size they are from the shop. You can nudge it a bit higher if you up the water changes a bit to compensate. There are a shed load of little fish that most aquarium shops carry as well as neon tetras. Such as glowlight tetras, Black neon tetras, whitecloud mountain minnows, guppys,silver tip tetras, harlequin rasboras, cherry barbs, the list can go on for ever almost. Stay away from things like tiger barbs, buenos aires tetra, flame tetras as they tend to get slightly larger and can be a bit nippy. You might also want to consider something that scavenges around the bottom. Corydoras catfish are good for this, but they are happier in small groups rather than singly. Other candidates for small tanks would be Otocinclus affinis (commonly called an oto catfish). They are great little work horses which should also help keep any algae under control. I wouldn't add them straight away as they are a bit sensitive to new tank set ups, and of course a brand new tank won't have much algae for them to eat.

Just as I thought and this is what the guy was saying but his colleague was just being ignorant and suggesting they are just Toyota's. I just listened and thought some people hey. They were both right depending if it is a new generation Lex or not, if yours isn't, then techinically the other guy was right and it is just a Toyota.

If I'm honest, the missed services at 50K and 60K would be the problems for me. If you explain you have the receipts to show the correct service schedule for the rest that would be good enough. Like I said, no service for 30K miles would be my issue with the car and would expect a healthy reduction because of it. Plus not even having a full service since the 30K miles makes it even worse. I'm sure a call to Lexus GB with proof of work (receipts) should mean they would correct their records.

I think the only way you are going to get the figures is to go and have another dyno which gives you both (even then it will depend how they work it out). Either that or take the method that gives you the highest figure and be happy

Your policy booklet should say when you need to inform your insurance company. Generally it is required that you tell your insurance company regardless of fault. They should be handling the claim for you anyway to make sure it all goes as it should.

Yup

According the the manual, "SEC" will appear whenever the key is turned to the "ACC" position. I assume it appears briefly before the radio then functions normally, unless the power had been disconnected at which point the code would need to be entered. I don't have it set on mine but I can try it out later to see what it does when the code is set.

Have you got any pics after you polished it?

I like the look of the sport grill best B) Although the other one is less common.

I'm more than happy with my standard N95. Not had any hiccups with it yet.

The 02 sensor is part of the emmissions/cat stuff, it should bring on the check engine light if it is not working correctly or is disconnected.

As rob says, a new wheel stud and wheel nut will sort it. The nuts are £4 or there abouts I think, not sure on the stud price but I would think it would be about the same. Knock the old one out from the front of the hub, feed the new one in from the back of the hub. Use some washers as spacers on front side of the stud and screw the nut on to pull the stud through to seat it properly.

Google some of the 24hr breakers on the web. Basically you fill in an email form with what you want, they send out the request nationwide to breakers and the breaker then calls you with a price if they have it. Works great, I've got bits from a couple of them for my Mk1 (starter motor, Brake calliper mount brackets). Very quick delivery service with all of them. The Sport wheels are rare as hens teeth. Your best bet is to keep an eye on ebay as they do appear every now and again. A set of 6 (4 x 8.5 and 2 x 10) wheels were on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The breakers may have some I guess too.

Was it only the wheel that was in the mud? With all those lights, it sounds like maybe part of the gearbox was grounded as well. Dragging out of the ice may have broken/damaged wiring to ABS wheels sensor, O2 sensor on exhaust, speedo drive on gearbox (I assume there is a sendor/drive on the gearbox for the speedo?) and possibly an electrical connection to the overdrive on the gearbox.

Sounds more like a brake or balljoint issue than tracking though. Any uneven tyre wear?

From what I can tell with the wiring diagrams, there are three fuses that effect the radio setup. The "25A Rad No. 1" fuse powers the amp in the boot. The "15A Cig" fuse goes to the radio and amp and the "10A Dome" fuse is the main power for the radio. Other than that the only other fuse that does anything else a "7.5A Panel" fuse that controls illumination. As Dave said, the CIG fuse is in the kick panel, as is the Panel fuse, the other two are in the main fuse box. I'm confused how the radio is showing SEC if there is no power to it though :duh:

I had the gear selector illumination out yesterday as the "Park" end was out. Bizarely, they have one R287 bulb (like a miniature R501 push fit bulb) at one end of the selector (the drive end) and a bulb similar to the air con bulbs at the park end. Why on earth they went for two different styles I'll never know. Luckily I had a spare bulb out of the air con panel left over so just needed to pull the green dobber off the bulb and put it in. I was in Lexus the on friday asking about the bulbs for the selector and it only listed one, the R287 type bulb, showed no other bulb on the diagram so no idea what the official part number is for the bayonet bulb/holder.

Nothing here either