TigerFish

What kind of action are you talking about? You are aware of the problem the other member had, it is up to you now if you leave them on yours (un-fused or in any other state) surely?

Nice job B)

Yup, just call a round a few of the non-chain tyre places. Kwik-fit won't fit tyres they didn't supply so they are a non starter. The place I use in Derby is £5 per wheel for 17" and below, the 18's on my GS cost £10 including disposal and balancing etc. The McGard locking wheel nuts won't guarantee your wheels are safe, like pretty much any other locking wheel nut. I'm not aware of any that are not removable with a sockets and brute force. I think they are more a deterent for a "quick" theft, if someone really wants them, they will be able to get the lockers off with the right tools.

Bear in mind that the locking wheel nut remover set is £9.99 so is cheaper than buying the socket set. I guess it depends if you are going to use the socket set much afterwards or not. Search for "Laser Locking Wheel Nut Remover" on Halfrauds website and you will see the item I mentioned in my post further up.

If it is similar to the Mk1, then the pod just pops off. Behind that is the tweeter held on with two large screws. If the later GS/Aristo is the same, then once the tweeter is off, you need to remove the trim panel around the base of the tweeter that heads around the top of the window. And also remove the door panel unless you can wangle a spanner down the back of it to get to the wing wirror lower fixing bolts (there are three in total, one at the top under the window trim, two at the bottom behind the door panel). Just done a few pics for comparison. The last pic I have arrowed roughly where the bolt locations are. Sorry, didn't have time to remove the trim and door panel but I can remove them if you need any other pics.

Yup, as fas I know, it is illegal to use a jammer. It is one thing to listen for the signals, to actaully interfere with them is a different matter.

If the stock indicators are amber coloured bulbs, then they will be offset pins. The only time they should be straight is if like with my BMW where I changed the whole indicators from orange to clears, and an amber/silvertec bulb had to replace a standard clear bulb (which shines through orange plastic). In those cases, you need straight pins. Basically, if you have amber bulbs from the factory, you need offset, if you have clear bulbs from the factory, you need straight. All assuming they are

Halfords sell the sockets for removing them. The essentially have a reverse thread inside the socket and it screws its way on to the locking nut. The nut is obviously buggered after it is all done. or get kwik fit or someone else to remove them again (go back to the place you just had the work done). I do agree with Purvesh, I'm not sure what you thought the garage would do about the problem. Sometimes it pays to just be up front with everything, almost all garages would have the kit to deal with the nuts and sticking a new set back on would've saved a lot of hassle.

I got a brand spanking new IS250MM for the day when my 1996 GS was in for a geo setup a few weeks back. Didn't like it particularly which was a bit of a bonus really as it meant I was glad to get my old banger back

I don't think there are any chrome ones left in the LOC shop. They are straight, here are the chromes on my black calipers. How much are you doing the curved chrome ones for Neil?

Looking good mate.

Agree with Wildybeast that some transmission play is normal. As well as what Wildybeast said, also check the prop shaft center bearing.

Dragging up an old one, but are these stickers or is it actually etched on the window? They are stickers made to look like etchings.

No problem mate, have fun with the ex

Glad you got them sorted mate. Although for info when refurbing or re-greasing, lithium soap base glycol grease is the recommened grease for these parts, not copper grease.

The rears do have a brake drum built in which contain the brake shoes for the hand brake. Other than a bit of potential messing about releasing the self adjuster slightly so that the shoes clear the lip on the drum the job should be pretty similar. If you get stuck and you fancy a drive to Derby sometime on Sunday afternoon, we could have a go at my place to sort them out

If it is like the Mk1 GS (not sure what one you have), the pulley is fixed to the end of the crank with a single, normally very tight, bolt. Shouldn't be a big job assuming you can get the bolt undone. It does require the removal of the radiator I think to have enough room though. The rad is easily removed so that isn't a show stopper.

hmmm, you sure?? If the carrier to hub bolts are done up properly, there is no way they would move. However, the calliper slide pins moving in the carrier slightly I can see happening very easily, especially if the plastic inserts are worn out or missing.

Yeah, re-reading it, the second post that I ignored 'cos I thought it was a double post had been changed to "save"

cheers mate that will cost me a fortune A fortune??

Slide pins are available seperately (about £8 or the equivelent in euros) as are the rubber boots that go over them. The main dealer can get them.

Anyone got any concrete'ish figures for what customs are likely to want to hammer people for? £65 as mentioned by jiberjaber seems a tad steep and is a big downer if a bill that big came through

Did the converter I posted give you the figure you were after??

I always use this site for foreign currency conversions clicky