TigerFish

As Bazza says, tighten as per my pic below

Details on this link How to :)

It is 103 Nm (76 ft lbs) for the MK1 GS. I would expect the MK2 to be the same or very similar.

Just to give Dave/Bazza some ideas, I have added some subtle mods so the ladies don't forget what they should be doing

No idea about the satnav questions but as far as the airbag goes, yes, you can just turn the switch to on. It is designed for you to be able to activate/deactivate it when ever needed incase you install a rear facing child seat in the front.

Part numbers for fronts: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Part numbers for rears: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Looking at the parts, it does look like you could if needed or wanted to, use 4 pins of either type. Personally, I would use atleast one pin on each side that has the bush on it, as that would tend to stop any rattles.

So when she sold it, she had put new reg plates on with the new reg number?? Or the new owner drove away with the cherished plates on when they bought it? Maybe they don't know that the plate was not included.

Good job mate. Looks like you sussed it before I posted up the wiring. Some info for you on the unidentified wires below.

I wouldn't fill up too far on those cold mornings then or when it warms up during the day it is all gonna expand in your tank and come pi**ing out

What did Shaun actually do?

Osteo, How much was the overhaul kit and what came in the kit?

I have an IS200/300 fascia kit I don't need. If you want it just PM me your address and I'll send it out.

Yup, specialist job only mate. Try and go somewhere that will do a dye test to check for leaks as well as doing the re-charging.

That was pretty neat.

Very nice, I like them a lot B)

Make sure you have a "flashlube" system fitted at the same time. From what I can gather, the Toyota engines are prone to valve seat problems if you don't have it fitted.

All depends on the head unit I guess. If it has low level RCA outputs then you could use the amp, if not then you would have no choice but to bin the amp. On mine, I cut the plugs off and put ISO connectors on at the head unit end as the head unit has ISO connetors. It also meant I could install the Parrot hands free kit easily as that is an ISO plug and play set up. I used the factory wiring to run the high level head unit outputs to the amp, and then bypassed the amp to feed back out to the factory wiring for the speakers. If you wanted to do something similar, I can document the wiring at the weekend and post it up. However, I didn't use factory connectors (although I have kept them all just in case I want to put them back on) so can't help specifically on sourcing factory fit connectors/adaptors.

I can check part numbers when I get home on Friday if you can wait til then.

Are you intending to bypass the amp or still utilise it?

That kinda says it all really. pretty much means not all and when you are talking about only 150, that is not great by any stretch of the imagination

Why is it likely to do that? In all the years and cars I have had, I have never yet had radweld seize a water pump. In fact, the only problem I have ever encountered with it, is it sealing up the rad cap (the rubber seal) and stopping the expansion tank doing its thing. i.e. it couldn't suck the water back into the rad as it cooled. The only car I couldn't use it on was my old M reg Rover 827 as radweld cannot be used on the Rover/Honda 2.7 V6 unit for some reason. Having said that, the leak sounds to bad in this case to be able to use radweld.

I agree with MacRS, if it is leaking that fast then radweld won't help. If all the hoses are good, then a replacement rad is the simplest option.

Thanks for the info, will look at changing to the correct grease. Hi, Did you manage to regrease? I was having a look at mine over the w/end and a lower pin had seized solid. Managed to free it off and it's much improved however, when you replaced yours did you need to remove the protective rubber gaiter to pull the pin out completely or can you remove the pin without disturbing the gaiter? Would be interested to hear if you came up against any problems with the job, Thanks, Dave. I've re-greased the sliding pins on mine quite regularly (everytime I do anything with the brakes basically) and I've not had to remove the gaitors to remove the pins. If they are solid, they can be bloody hard to get out and the gaitor can come away from its mounting collar. I'm waiting for the new pins I won on ebay to arrive and I'll be replacing a couple of the gaitors on mine when I put the new pins on. Just need to order the gaitors and also a new set of the plastic inserts that go on the sliding pins too.

Haven't there been as many unsatisfied as satisfied customers (on LOC) for the Gromaudio thingymajig? With less than professional customer after care? or did I imagine it? Just worth remembering that it didn't work for everybody.

From what I remember on here previously, the only person that ran 285's on the 10 inch wheels on his Mk1 (possibly others have but not heard about them) ended up changing back to the recommended 275's as the 285 were catching the arch slightly. So 285 may be the ideal for the wheel size, but unfortunately not once they are on the car.