TigerFish

I've used Falken FK452's and Eagle F1 GSD3's with no problems. Currently got continental Sport Contact 2's on the back and they seem to be OK too. Only thigns I have done to mine are clear side repeaters, clear front indicators and calipers painted. The Sport is lowered by 25mm all round already. Speed bumps give enough grief with just that drop so I'm not sure I would want to drop mine any further.

Q1 - Do you have fully comp insurance, if you have, it shoudl cover all glass on the car, including the sunroof. If done on the insurance, it should cost £50-£80 depending what excess you have. Q2 - No idea on the silver key, I have two black ones for mine. The range does seem poor on mine - even less than 10 feet, which I do find annoying at times. I doubt the newer keys will work on the Mk1's, if you can get one cheap enough, it could be worth a try I guess to see if it will re-program to a Mk1 alarm system. Q3 - Overdrive as mention just stops it using the final gear. It should light up an orange "O/D" light on the dash when the overdrive gear has been disabled using the button on the gear stick. Q4 - I can check my V5 at the weekend if nothing comes up in the thread about it.

someone sold a lexus owners club padded cd wallet and window stickers set last week, it went for 17 quid or something like that.

Part numbers for fronts: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Part numbers for rears: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Looking at the parts, it does look like you could if needed or wanted to, use 4 pins of either type. Personally, I would use atleast one pin on each side that has the bush on it, as that would tend to stop any rattles. TF, I've just renewed all my caliper pins and greased with lith-moly however the service guide I've got shows bushes for the upper and lower pins. The old pins I've taken out only have grooved bushes on the lower items and not the uppers - there doesn't seem to be any room to put bushes onto the upper pins. Is this right? I still have some play in the upper pins even tho they are new. Dave. I only have bushes on one pin on each caliper and I'm not getting any rattles that I have noticed. There is a small amount of play, but the grease stops any metal on metal rattles, and the bush on the one pin stopping any movement of the caliper when it is all done back up.

A cup of tea does not contain enough heat to raise your body temperature, so comparatively, you would be the same. Therefore no hotter or colder than before drinking the tea.

Thanks for the explanation Tony. From your tone, I'm getting the feeling you didn't like the questions, which were not intended to rile you in any way. You said something, which when I read it can mean a multitude of things, so I asked if you could explain further. I do not doubt your expertise or abilities in car geometry (or WIMS and all the people who work in it) and the results are well documented to back that up that expertise :) I have read the wim website, and find the whole subject fascinating. That is why when I see something that looks like "fancy words", I am interested in getting a proper understanding. I do have a bucket load more questions but I can see that you obviously do not wish to continue my education in chassis dynamics so I will go to crap-fit tomorrow and get the full story Thank you for your concerns about my sleeping patterns BTW, they are perfectly well and will not be effected by this thread :P

Love it.

If you google it, you will come up with an equal amount of yes and no judgements on each side. Having sadly sat here for a good while going through what has been said on shed loads of links on google, I came to the conclusion it was not true. To drink enough hot fluids to be able to effect your body temperature seems on face value not that possible, especially not a mug full. i.e. half fill your bath with body temp'ish water. Now tip a mug of boiling water into the bath. Has it heated up? Nope. So the notion that your temp will rise enough is not that plausible in the end. Seems to come down to the placibo effect.

Other than getting a replacement changer, I can't see any other solution. Or changing to an after market headunit/changer, that's what I did just 'cos I wanted to hook up my ipod properly.

This maybe off topic, but I am still interested in the answers to above. :)

You mean in that colour with the 8.5" wide alloys all round (rather than the fatter 10" wheels on the rear)? or just the fact the pic is of a Sport? Not in that particular colour, but on the same lines if you know what i mean. I have decided that i want a Sport model. Yup, I know what you mean, I love my Sport but wouldn't have bought one without the 10" rears, they make a massive difference IMO to the stance and "presense" of the car. More expensive tyres of course but well worth it.

That's what I thought too although I would say I pap'ed my horn, which is similar.

I had the blue vision type bulbs before. Looked really good when all lights were like it, as soon as I put the hids on, they looked yellow. Basically, I don't think there is a bulb out there that will ever look like a hid bulb.

Can you also post details (or link to the details) as I would be interested in the details too? :)

You mean in that colour with the 8.5" wide alloys all round (rather than the fatter 10" wheels on the rear)? or just the fact the pic is of a Sport?

Sorry, going a bit Tony, I'm a bit confused by what you have said above. You seem to be saying that the OEM settings are NOT wrong, which is not what I always thought from the hundreds of posts on this forum. And you are saying that rather than setting the geo at the centre points of the factory specs, you do them off centre?? So in reality, it is the establishment doing the geo setups that are not reading the problem correctly and not using the tolerances to help clear up any issues. Which kind of shifts the blame, if you want to apportion any, to not being 100% with Lexus anymore? I'm also a bit confused by the statement "so our change is a dynamic one rather than total violation of the suggested static range". Can you explain this statement better so I can get clear in my head what you mean? What has being dynamic got to do with violating a tolerance? If something is static range, then it is not static? is rather than total violation implying that there is some violation. No offence intended here, but that statement sounds like a whole load of fancy words to say nothing, but in fairness it does look/sound good Back on topic More for Tony I'm afraid, "the insurance could deem this as a undisclosed modification", are you saying this is true or just a guess? I want to make sure that indeed a geo setting is classed as a modification as opposed to a "Could be", "might be", "may be" etc. Let me explain, although you say that your settings are in tolerance (depending on above answers potentially), I have also read on here that adding wider alloys can effect what geo settings you should have, so if you have to declare the wheels, would you have to declare the resulting geo changes as suspension mods as well? Are you saying that should a drift car go out on the public highway, that the geo settings will invalidate its insurance unless declared. I guess in a round about way, I am trying to ascertain if you have any grounds in your thoughts about the insurance issue or are guestimating based on your opinions just like the rest of us (until an insurer actually posts of course - which would only be valid for that insurer as they all have differing rules). Ultimately, someone has no choice but to speak to your insurer if you really want to know the answer, however painful that explanation/process may end up being.

No Rick, not a question of "ignore". More the point that the original question posed seems to be being misinterpreted by some. The point about handling before and after resetting the Geo is not in doubt (DJ Wozza), the salient point being not the fact that handling,tyre wear is greatly improved following being reset, but rather the fact that could it result in possible problems insurancewise should anyone be unfortunate enough to be involved in a fatal RTA which then results in a very thorough check of the car by a trained police accident investigator. Whether or not the handling is better after being WIM'd is irrelevant to the point I was attempting to ascertain. OK, fair enough.

Strange reply Dave1. Post a question, ignore the answers/discussions if you don't like 'em. That is what forums are all about, in the old days they were called discussion forums. Maybe next time just put in your original post "do not answer unless you are an insurance manager" :winky:

When the gas board come round to mine, the guy checked the gas pressure and checked the emmissions fromn the flue. They also took the front off the boiler and gave the burner a blow out and clean. Any gas fires are also checked for full burn etc. Never really took much notice of the time, but I guess around half an hour.

Welcome to LOC, good choice of car B) Are they genuine CD's or CDR's? Copied CD's are pretty iffy the majority of the time.

Yup, you summed it up pretty much. 18" TTE Alloys (10" wide rears as optional extra) 25mm lowered all round Boot spoiler Mesh, colour coded front grill Sport logo in rear quarter windows Sport logo on front bumper I think that's it. As a bit of extra info, the "Sport" model was never actually a factory option, standard GS's were modified by the dealers when they hit British shores.

Sorry for going 2D Oddly enough, I think it is swings and roundabouts to a degree. My 1992 BMW 325 Coupe had fully auto up and down on all windows, something that I find annoying not having on the GS (only auto down on the drivers window). The BMW also had the computer to give fuel consumption figures, range on petrol left in the tank, etc, all great features that work very well and were pretty darn accurate. So there are a few gadgets the GS lacks that I would really love to have back.

Welcome to LOC :) You might get one for the upper end of your price range, they seemed to be creeping up in price (for the sport) over recent months but petrol prices may well have put the brakes on that slightly. There seemt o be plenty of non sports go for less, but the sport does command a higher tag in most cases. One of the most common problem that seems to aflict them (GS and IS's) is sticky brakes. Usually caused by the pistons sticking in the calipers. Check the wheel temp after going for a brisk test drive and see if any of the wheels feel warmer than the rest, as it could indicate this problem. Not difficult to fix, regrease or replacement caliper (around £75 plus surcharges) so not too bad a price. The rear crank oil seal went on mine (common prob with this engine in Lexus and Toyota cars apparently) and the repair costs can vary hugely so check for unexplained oil leaks coming from the engine/gearbox join area. Highest quote was £940 from Lexus, got it done in the end by a local place for £311 all in including a new torque convertor seal. Other than that, if you get the 10" wide rears, be aware of the tyre costs, not cheap. Speedo needles can be costly if they are not lighting up (it isn't just a bulb) so check they light properly. Full service history was not a concern for me due to the mileage I am covering, so I do the servicing myself anyway.

No specific help but I mounted mine in the bumper on my Mk1 GS. Had no problems so far.

Can only see something round sat above the offside end of the intercooler??