TigerFish

Inspires confidence... Over the last 5 or 6 years I've had 4 windscreens and one side window from autoglass, they have never got it wrong so far. So not all doom and gloom mate.

Nice job B)

Ouch. Did it involve a new caliper too?

Sorry to see that mate. Had the same happen to my GS last year for my pda Satnav. Autoglass did my drivers window, the replacement glass was sourced from Toyota/Lexus which took a few days to come in so I had to have a temporary perspex sheet cut to shape and installed.

Any ethylene-glycol antifreeze is fine, does not have to be Toyota/Lexus, other brands do long life stuff too although it is not a neccessity to have the long life, just personal preference at the end of the day.

from wikipedia Anyone know how true the part in red is? or was that only for JDM?

if it was to be used illegally i would agree but what would happen if some one had used it priour to me buying vehicle or had it been on car without my knowledge The fact you know they had done it means you should replace the plates. At the end of the day, it sticks out like a turd on a bowling green when they have been tampered with, there is no way you would get away with pretending you didn't know.

Sorry for going off topic I am more confused about the bypass lead now after reading this bit and aztecs great walk through. In that thread, stav mentions removing the other connector and taking out the amp altogether. Sooo, that leads to the question "what is the lead actually doing and what is the amp doing in Wozza's quote above?". Looking at the pics on Aztecs thread, the bypass lead looks like it is plugging straight into the outputs of the amp, and therefore it is "bypassing" the amp. Anyone got a circuit diagram for the Stereo wiring to check the colour codes? I'm interested in seeing how the bypass cable is matching impedences and stuff assuming the wire colours match up to the speaker wire outputs of the amp.

Looks like they are the same then mate so the jobs a good 'un :)

The number of gears doesn't matter. It would be the gear ratios that decide the top speed. I'll try to check the gear changes on mine at lunch time and see what I think mine is doing.

Not sure if the discs & pads are the same between the Mk1 and Mk2's. The ebay link is for the JZS160 (Mk2) not the JZS147 (Mk1), yours is a Mk1.

I thought the bypass cable essentially just patched the ins and outs of the amp together to bypass it. Without it you would need to do it yourself i.e. it doesn't do anything as far as impedence goes and is just allowing you an easy way to use the speaker cables already installed in the car. Nothing to do with the speakers themselves? or is there some jiggery-pokery going on in the bypass cable too?

be careful with terminology. O/D is normally on, unless you press the button and light on the dash comes on. Basically the light is there to show you that you have overdrive switched off. I believe that from '96 onwards, the gearbox was 5 speed but can't confirm that. Something to do with utilising the O/D gear on second gear also. Best bet is accelerate slowly and count the gear changes. If you get 4 changes, you have a 5 speed box, only 3 changes and it is a 4 speed.

Sorry, what I meant was to basically put your own stereo in like I did in this thread, clicky. Not that straight forward but not too much of a headache either.

From what I have read, from '96 onwards was a 5 speed, basically by using the overdrive also gear in 2nd gear (I think). Easiest thing to do is just listen/watch for the gear changes and count them.

Without taking my distributor apart I can't say for sure, but i would assume it would not. I would expect the fuel Injection system and ECU to take care of any rev limiting.

The spring clips being missing wouldn't give those symptoms. They would give issues when the brakes are not applied, i.e. rattling etc or just at the initial point of braking, i.e. a clunk. Once you put the brakes on, the pads will go to whatever position they end up in (due to the disc rotation) and stay there until you stop braking.

Congrats on the new motor :) Check the lug nuts haven't been over tightened too. Correct torque on them is very important and seems to effect Lexus more than others when overdone. Also remember the fact they are new'ish, doesn't mean they are warp free anymore.

What happens when they reach the top or the bottom? Do you have to jab the button? Can you post up the details as I'm interested at seeing if this method works on a Mk1 GS300? Cheers.

As soon as you get under the car you will see the 3rd sensor. Just after the downpipes join up into 1. I believe You need to lift the carpet on the drivers side to get to the plug for the 3rd sensor.

14 months and 38,000 miles so far. Had my last car for 7 years and covered 210,000 miles in it.

You could try somewhere like breaker Link -------> clicky

Not as imple as that mate to get auto up/down. It is controlled by an ECU so the switch is only part of the story. I think there a few folks who have done some jiggery pokery with building an additional circuit to deal with it (for full closure functionality). Someone who has done it will be along soon enough hopefully.

I'm pretty sure the Mk2 is the same as the Mk1 for the upper balljoint, it is a complete wishbone (not just a balljoint) and much more than 50 quid. I did this thread when I changed my top balljoint on my Mk1 clicky, you can see the whole wishbone assembly. I guess the ball joint could be drilled out or something and a new one put in the arm, but not seen that done and no idea where to get a suitable ball joint.

Pics of the minor cosmetic mods. Very minor but I'm not into full on VIP'ing of cars. Calipers Clear side repeaters Cleared out front indicators