TigerFish

Nope. I assume you are thinking the handbrake uses the pads. The discs have a drum in the middle with standard brake shoes for the handbrake, so you only need to mess with adjustments if you are changing the discs and/or handbrake shoes.

Flush on mine too mate

Nice result B)

On the GS stereo, there is a feed for the lights on one of the connectors. If you have a multimeter, remove the stereo, stick your sidelights on and see what pins on the plugs have has 12 volts on, then turn the side lights off and double check that the 12 volts goes. You should then be able to earth the stereo chassis and stick 12v on the same pin on the stereo socket to check the bulbs. Or if you are lucky, someone will have a wiring diagram and be able to tell you the pin.

Easiest way is to remove the single philips screw from the indicator (if you look at the top outside corner of the headlamp unit you will see a narrow black plastic "strap" coming across from the indicator with the screw in it). Remove the indicator by sliding it forward and out and you will see a long grey rubber bulb holder (with two wires going into it) at the back of the headlamp unit. Turn it about an 8th of a turn (can't remember which way but probably anticlockwise) and pull it out. As mentioned above, just pull out the 501 type bulb and push the new one in. Put the indicator back on and screw up, job done. Hope that helps.

What does your friend mean when he says the car would be in a "worse state"? The mechanic should be able to do a compression test, of course he will have to remove the throttle body etc to be able to compression test all of the cylinders (make sure he has new gaskets for the throttle body for re-assembly).

Good choice B) Best of luck with the oil leak.

Glad to hear she is back on the road again B)

Sounds pretty normal to me too mate

There is an oil seal on the filter, and I would assume a gasket between the sandwich plate and and engine block. I had an oil leak that used to drip onto the exhaust, most visible around the bell housing and would run down the gearbox and cross member. It turned out to be the rear crank oil seal. Prices for the job varied hugely, from £940 from Lexus, to £311 at a local garage. Get the oil filter locations checked first of course.

You can't have your cake and eat it mate. If you are getting him to put things in writing that you own this, or own that, or are entitled to this or that, it can work against you too asit is documentary proof your are using to get money out of him. Just be very careful. If you are getting a good deal on the pay off, then trying to shaft him afterwards will invariable get you burnt one way or the other. For instance, who would want to work with you when you didn't run your company correctly and then shafted your mate after he bought you out. For another instance, If you know about the PAYE thing, you are guilty by association as you should've reported/corrected the situation. Just remember, you now have this topic lodged in google cache for ever, admiting that you know of wrongful doings....

If you have any problems finding somewhere to put the pdf(s), let me know. I will host them on my webserver along with a couple of other Lexus pdf's Ialready host for some other folks.

That doesn't sound too good :( I assume the car is used regularly and it isn't caused by condensation in the crank case. Still means you need to find the route cause of the overheating. Good luck.

If the IS box is anything like the GS one, even by removing the drain plug and draining the oil doesn't remove all of the oil. What I am saying is be aware that using the oil extractor will I'm guessing not remove all of the oil by quite a bit (assuming it is like a GS). Which isn't ideal really. You really need to do the drain properly from the drain plug and the oil cooler pipes.

Nope, if thermostat is jammed shut (and no head gasket issues) then the water is just routing around the engine. The thermostat is just blocking the route through the radiator, not the route around the whole engine. It is basically ensuring that the water warms up as quickly as possible from engine heat before allowing it to be cooled at all by the radiator. You may see water on the plug, not really sure. If water is getting into the engine, it should be fairly obvious. The pressure under compression is much higher in the piston than it is in the cooling system so gasses will pass into the cooling system while the engine is running. I suppose in theory if you run the engine until hot, turn the engine off and then remove a plug, you should see the water in the cylinder through the plug hole (assuming it doesn't pass the piston rings and down into the sump before you get the plug out. Water mixed in the oil (producing a milky/frothy residue) will be the easiest way to see the problem, or gas/water shouting out the rad when it is running.

Well done mate

In theory, if you take the rad cap off, run the engine and rev it, water should shoot up out of the rad if the head gasket is gone and cylinder pressure is getting into cooling system. If head gasket has gone through water/oil path instead, then water in oil would show up. If the rad hose is staying cold all the time, I would suspect that the thermostat is stuck shut and would be the easiest bit to check next. Good luck.

IS front brakes are the same as the GS, I did this tutorial with pics etc Pad and Disc Change

As far as I know, to do a proper fluid change you have to do a combo of both. Removing the sump plug does not drain all of the oil, so you drain it first from the sump plug, refill with the same quantity that was drained. You then move on to the cooler pipe, turn the engine over and pump out fluid. re-top up with the amount removed, and keep repeating at the cooler until you start getting clean oil out of the cooler. Thanks, Could you tell me where I could find the gearbox oil cooler pipe please? Thanks Arif If you look right down at the botton of the radiator, you will see them joining into the radiator on the engine side of the rad.

Hi TigerFish....I think it might have been "confiscated" I believe I put the name Epay in it if you know what I mean....it was all in innocence as a new guy I didn't realise.....may that be a warning to you all out there.....lmao Strange. Should be noo problem mentioning ebay unless you are trying and sell something (through ebay or any other route) and are not a gold member on here. Maybe one of the admins can shed some light

Where did your other topic I replied to disappear to?

OOOPS............sorry tiger fish, not a good way to start is it by alienating long standing members.........your car looks great in that colour with the lowered suspension and alloys etc, 1st one I've seen apart from mine. Maybe I should rejoin as a different name and then I will omit the "horrible" and not offend anyone...........Sorry !!!! No worries mate, the world would be a dull place if we all liked the same things :)

Nowt wrong with the burgandy colour

Yup. Unless you block off the engine bay from the intake, any/all kits will be having a negative effect on performance.

If it is a Mk1, then there is no seat memory and only one steering wheel memory :(