TigerFish

I thought the sensors were strapped on to the wheel inside in the centre, didn't think they were connected to the valve at all??

The GS and IS do not have any retaining screws on the disk so I would imagine that the screw is only there to hold the disk in place when the wheel is off. If the wheel is on and torque'd correctly, they actually serve no purpose and are not something to worry about from a safety perspective.

This is correct. I have a copy of the Sport brochure and that states a 25mm drop all round.

If you are not seeing the threads properly and can only see one reply at a time, try clicking the blue "options" box on the corner of your post, scroll to "Diplay Modes" and select "Standard". That should fix it.

For me, I would prefer a 180mm Macro, but they were prohibitively expensive for what I had to spend :( The 105 is great, and allows me a little flexibility on how close to something I have to be. A 60mm would've probably not worked that well for me, but having never used one, that is just speculation. I shoot in Raw, which is much better for what I do. RAW will capture "exactly" what has come through the lense, and you can adjust whitebalance etc afterwards and use your own eye to get the shot truly representative of what you saw. The down side is that you can't just download from the camera and start viewing, post processing can be a bit of a chore. Again, I think it depends on what you are doing. For most shots, the cameras own image processing is pretty good and will satisfy the vast majority. In odd lighting, things can get confused and end up with hues to the picture that look odd or unatural. Sometimes these can be overcome by using the presets of whitebalance for differing lighting, or setting it yourself, but you then need to start thinking about the surroundings when you take the shot, rather than compensating afterwards. Horses for courses, just try it out and see what works best for you. Not sure on the Nikon, but on mine I can have RAW + Jpeg. Means you get less shots on the memory card but gives you the option of using jpegs most of the time, and having the RAW image available if the odd picture needs correcting. I didn't know about the Minolta thing, so that's why Sony has suddenly become a force in SLR cameras - it made no sense as they seemingly came from nowhere! Yup, they popped up from nowhere. On the plus side, they have added to the range. Unfortunately, I had hoped it would kick start a drop in prices for the accessories but it never happened. for instance, the Sony flashes are just as expensive as the old Minolta badged versions.

What kind of photgraphy do you envisage yourself doing mostly? That will dictate the lense choice a lot. i.e. if you only ever plan taking lots of portrait shots of the misses/kids, unless you don't like being close to them, you will have no need for a 200mm lense. You are much better off with a 50mm prime lense for instance. Zooms are good and all that, but the widest f-number they can go to limits their use a lot of the time. i.e. A 50mm lense may be a f1.4 or f1.8, where as the zoom lense zoomed to 50mm might be f5.4 (sorry, no idea on the actual specs of the lenses you mention), It will need much more light to get a really good photo. True enough that on auto, the camera will up the film speed to compensate but you loose quality due to the grainyness of the higher film speeds. I do mostly macro work and therefore 95% of the time I am using my 105mm macro lense. I have zooms with macro mode, but they are no match for a dedicated macro lense. There are trade offs with everything really. I think the Nikon is a good choice. I use a Minolta 5D (before Konica/Minolta sold their outfit to Sony) and I find myself limited with accessories to only expensive brands (Sony or MInolta) most of the time. Nikon and Canon will offer a much wider range of accessories at almost all price ranges.

Thanks all. Had a very good day :)

Must admit, I'm confused like Aztec, not sure there are any bolts holding the disc on. Can you post any pics of the bolt(s) and where they are?

Glad it helped mate. Good luck.

The sensor wiring can still be different mate. Hope these pics help

Sorry, that was a typo on my behalf and I meant a Mk2. Definately need to check that all linkage rods are disconnected from it.

I'll take it Janey :) Do you do paypal? If yes, can you PM me your paypal addy and I'll sort it out. Cheers No private call facility on the standard setup, not looked to see if there is an add-on for it.

This is the thread I mentioned clicky

How much do you want for it Janey?

Not sure mate. I have replaced my head unit with a sony one which is ISO already. I put ISO connectors on the vehicle loom so the plumbing of the Parrot was a simple plug and play affair.

Anyone help on this door actuator I have found out it is called. Sorry mate, cannot help specifically as I have not seen a Mk1 actuator. But normally there will be a connecting rod(s) to connect to door lock and/or handles. If these are not disconnected, it won't come out of the door. Are they all disconnected?

Hi, Look forward to seeing your wiring later,thanks. Actually the sensor in the rear manifold is a four wire type. I have shown another single wire with grey connector that comes out of the loom near the distributor.No idea what that might be.The third little wire with brass push-on end in near the offside of the engine bay near the wing. Cheers Colin. That what I am saying mate, looks like you have a four wire sensor on the manifold, when it should be a single wire one that fits the type of plug you are seeing. I believe the the connector you are talking about near the discributor is the connector for the rear sensor. The other wire with the brass push on end is most likely where the other sensor (the missing sensor plugged with a bolt) has been cut off to splice it onto a universal type sensor. I will upload my pics later which may help clear things up a little. Hello Tigerfish, Really could use a glimpse under your bonnet.I finally got the CD-rom to go for wiring diagrams.It shows the two manifold sensors as 4 wire type but doesn't show where they connect to,so not much help.I'm stumped! Thanks Colin I'll try and upload them today mate. Don't be too concerned if the CD Rom shows four wire sensors, and you have single wire ones. I've had this discussion before with someone on here (I'll try and find the thread) and they did not have four wire sensors on their 96 Mk1.

Yup, I think they are quite chunky.

Hello mate, Can't really help as far as the stereo end of the connectors are concerned. I have put my Sony head unit in to mine, so I redid the wiring to be ISO connectors. As far as the parrot kit goes, it plugs inline between the ISO connectors in the pic. Basically it feeds the stereo speaker connectors through the relay module that comes with the handsfree kit. Then when it receives a call, it can cut the stereo feeds to the speakers, and route its own sound through car speakers.

Part numbers for the bulbs are in the thread that I linked to mate. Sorry, can't remember if Lexus Derby had them in stock or not.

Not sure which display it will show on mate. Probably the main one but it will be obvious either way once you see it. It will either come up with the radio/player display, or say SEC briefly on one of the displays. No soldering for the bulbs, just the standard bayonet type fixings that these little "T" type bulbs have. In the labelled pic of the back of the circuit board, the bulb holders, which are built onto the bulbs, are the round coloured bases you can see. They are clear bulbs with green "dobbers" on.

The security code is set by the user when security codeis enabled. If your stereo doesn't display SEC briefly when you turn it on, the security code has not been set and you have nothing to worry about. If it does show SEC when you turn it on, and you don't know the code, you could have problems.

If you mean the ones on the stereo mounting brackets, yes, use a 10mm socket. If you mean the ones on the side of the stereo to screw it to the brackets, use an 8mm spanner or socket.

Yup, I stand corrected Steve, I didn't read the details I was sent correctly. They have both dropped but the saving has reduced :(

The VAT cut doesn't really help me as a small business. I currently fall under the flat rate VAT scheme as it is called. I charge my clients 17.5%, but pay the VAT man back less than that (14.5% roughly). It is meant to encourage small businesses to be vat registered, simplify VAT returns and earn a few quid on top (the incentive). The VAT rate has dropped, but the flat rate I pay hasn't so company profits will be down slightly. Just goes to show these things don't suit everyone.