TigerFish

This IS bottom ball joint procedure is the same as the GS. clicky. Might be worth trying to do it without removing the ABS sensor, they can be a bit fragile.

3 possibles I can think of: Heat shields around exhaust system? Rattling back plate on rear brake(s)? Not sure if IS has "resonators" (large rubber weights bolted to exhaust) like the GS does, but if the rubber bush around the bolt deteriorates, they rattle.

No bleed valves that aI know of. Just proceed as follows: Fill coolant through rad cap replace rad cap fill expansion tank to max level start engine Heater on highest temp run car at 2000 rpm 'til hot allow to fully cool top up expansion tank to max level

Reviving this old'ish thread again. Does anybody know what the thread size is for the filter on the Mk1 GS? I definately want to get this done asap as it really does p*ss me off how awkward the filter is. I just need to make sure I get the right sized thread for the sandwich plate. On a side note, is there any specific reason to use the same oil filter remotely? i.e. I like the arrangement on my old BMW 325 Coupe, where there is a cast housing and top plate, and this holds the changeable filter element. I guess what I'm asking is can I grab one of these housings from a scrappy and use a BMW filter? or will the BMW item not handle the oil flow? is there anyway of finding out what oil flow a filter has or needs to handle? Lots of questions but maybe someone will know.

Any ideas on a rough price for these yet? They look like they would also fit the Mk1 GS clock (same buttons etc) so I might take a punt on one too.

Just checked the diagrams. Pulling the 50 amp main fuse should count out the relay if it is dodgy. The starter relay feeds the solenoid via the 50 amp fuse. Once the solenoid has thrown, it is a direct feed from the battery. If the turnover stops with the fuse pulled, it is the relay, if it doesn't, then it is the starter/solenoid.

to be honest i dont like my grill ..black or silver i just dont like style/shape i quite like this and thinking about buying it ..what do u think ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-98-99...sQ5fAccessories Looks similar to the grill on the "Sport" version of the GS300. Not sure what a genuine one costs from Lexus but worth checking just in case there is a special offer going on.

I was lucky enough to get a set with keys off Steve. I did ask Lexus when I was after a set and they were surprisingly cheap for a full set, something like £80.

There is no adjustment in the upper or lower balljoints. As long as the settings have always been good, they should be pretty much spot on after changing them. Although no reason not to do them to make sure. The upper balljoint is part of the wish bone, hence the higher cost. easy enough to change though. Here is alink to the tutorial I did on mine. Clicky Bottom ball joints are not difficult either, just more ball joints to split as you need to split the main ball joint and the track rod end.

depends on the dealer, but generally anywhere between 10% and 15%. I saved more than the LOC Gold membership fee just on the two bottom arms I purchased a couple of weeks ago.

Make - Lexus Model - 1st gen GS300 sport (2JZ-GE engine) Year - 1996 Mods - K&N Air filter only. Just had head gasket job so head skimmed as part of that repair. Use (road/track etc) - Motorway, round the town etc. Currently has 193,000 miles on the clock (I have done 53,000 of them in last 19 months or so. I do 100 miles each day 90% motorway, 10% town. Plus a 350 mile round trip every other weekend, again 90% motorway, 10% town. Car gets driven quite hard. Cheers Rick

Is it not a standard one in the second pic roadrash posted, along side his custom one?

I believe the window ones are still available from Lexus. As mentioned further up, for the bumper logo, contact Neil (aka "sorted vti") as he made some bumper ones up for me. I used the white on my car but he also does other colurs. I'm sure he could do the window ones too but you would probably be best replacing both window ones if they are not the genuine ones, as their might be a slight difference.

What relay?

Absolutely no idea mate.

There is an Amp in the boot underneath the CD multi-changer. Wiring goes from the head unit to the Amp, then Amp to the speakers. Just in case your GS had the original factory car phone set up, I believe there is a telephony control unit in/under the centre console somewhere. My understanding was that this unit cut the car audio when a call was recieved and played the phone through one of the car speakers, possibly the OSF (don't quote me on that though as I can't remember fully). So it could be that something needs removing or rectifying to put it all back to normal without the telephony unit.

Mine were replaced and the "jolting" has completely gone. Worked out at £280 for the two arms including Vat and goldie discount, plus £180 labour. Was meant to be less labour but adjuster nuts/bolts were ceized and took a lot of time to remove. I would recommend buying new adjusters bolts etc at the same time so the old ones can just be cut/ground off if neccesary.

Welcome to LOC. Nice GS Sport B)

I had a similar incident years ago and I refused the 50/50 settlement. In the end, due to the positioning of the damage (rear half of the car like yours), 100% liability was attributed to the other party.

Does the radio and tape work perfectly or do they go off intermittently? If they stay on all of the time, it would tend to suggest the changer unit or wiring to it. The changer is in the boot and the amp is below it, so could be worth double checking all connections to the changer and amp are clean, tight and damp free. Also check the connections on the back of the head unit (details on how to remove on this thread ---> clicky ). If all is good, next step is swapping out the various parts I guess. I have two spare head units, a spare amp and spare changer that you could use if you fancied a trip up to Basingstoke one weekend (not a million miles from Poole). Of course you could ditch the whole factory setup and put your own stuff in like I did, which I would thoroughly recomend.

This was done by a few members on here a while back. All in all they looked pretty good and I'm not aware of any legal issues. Only thing to be carefull about is wiring them in with an appropriately very low value fuse. One member almost had an underbonnet fire when one strip failed and began to burn.

Welcome to LOC. Nice choice of car B) I've fixed the pic for you mate, nice looking motor

It is your starter motor mate. If the solenoid gets stuck on, it will keep turning over as there is a direct feed for the main starter motor coil, regardless of a key being in. Try giving the starter/solenoid a wack with a stick or hammer to see if it releases the solenoid. Either way, replace or overhaul it (the brush sets are available seperately from Lexus) asap as it will continue to give problems.

Nice write up mate

There are no "visible" ultrasonic sensors anywhere on the Mk1 on the factory alarm systems. Apparently there are motion sensor(s) (as you can disable them from the key fob when you arm the alarm), but I have yet to find out where it/they are located!! An aftermarket alarm could have a sensor on the pillars though. I'm sure my old one had a "minidome" thing on the top of the dash but can't remember if it was alarm, lock/unlock sensor or something else. The little dome on the left hand side of the dash is the solar sensor for the air con system. It detects sunlight to change the air con settings in direct sunlight (or something to that effect... lol ).