TigerFish

I think there are a few on here who have done it. I'm sure there are wiring diagrams knocking about too.

I believe you get a constant buzzer going when the master cylinder/brake booster is starting croak so it doesn't sound like that problem. Best bet is just enjoy the motoring and forget about what "might" fail :)

Normally, taking the brake fluid cap off and sealing the top fully helps reduce fluid loss (same principle as an upside down milk bottle holding the fluid in). You will not be able to do it without bleeding the brakes afterwards. What ever happens, you are putting new lines in which are empty of fluid, so you will end up with a big air bubble in each corner that needs removing.

100% markup is the norm on retail goods. Be it a Supercharger or a mug. Misrepresenting goods is not the norm. Whichever way you look at it, Dave advertised them as "New", Asi and Patrik contacted Dave and he held them back (for shipping purposes) as they had already sold them to Markus. Asi and Patrik quite rightly thought they were getting chargers that Dave had previously owned and advertised as new. One way or another, Dave knew they were not going to get what they thought they were getting, which was new chargers. In my book, that is pretty damn poor especially after the all the holier than thou sh*t stirring with TDI we had to put up with from Dave.

just use copperslip matey!!i work for a main dealer(toyota)and thats all we use on the cars! (from aygo's to v8 land cruisers) :winky: Which dealer do you work for? Remind me not to go there if they are not using what the manufacturer recommends. If Toyota are meant to use copper slip, then the service manuals should say so, which they do not.

With a blade you'll have to press down to a reasonable degree in order to get the water off, or it won't do anything. With a waffle-weave towel you can either "dab" at it (as Rob described) or you can lay the towel flat over the surface and pull it gently towards you. With either of those I think there will be less force pressing any grit etc into the paint compared to using a blade. Yes, if you pressed hard with a rag it could do damage too. Fair enough, although with a decent finish, I needed virtually no pressure, other than the weight of the blade itself, to drag the very beeded (sp?) water off the surface. Plus of course, a wipe of the blade every pass kept it squeeky clean. It was imperative you only ran the blade over a wet surface though, otherwise it grabs on and that is not particularly good.

Just out of interest, why are the blades so bad? If you have grit under it, won't a rag with grit under it scratch the same as a blade would? I haven't used a blade for a long time but....... any marks/scrathes I did see on my car were always swirls, so certainly weren't caused by the blade.

I have a 6000K kit fitted on mine, they look great and give a much better view of the road. As Keith says, not technically legal but mine has sailed through the MOT with them and never been stopped by the feds because of them. Got mine from ebay, about £60 at the time. Probably cheaper now. Just buy the ones that are the same bulb type as the dip beams. 9006 I think, but double check that first.

The Comma Lith-Molly CV grease in halfords is the right one mate. If you go to Toyota, you will get a tub of comma but at twice the price.

I assume you are getting no coolant out of the engine block drain because there is not enough left in to drain from that high up, hence the over heating. If you are still getting bubbles in the expansion tank, then that is a good indication of a head gasket gone. Even if it hadn't gone initially (due to knackered radiator), the overheating could've caused the head gasket failure.

Halfords own brand of coolant is fine, as long as it is ethelene glycol based and not alcohol based. For transimission fluid,seems to be hotly debated but most would recommend sticking to the proper Toyota stuff.

you can have the cd player in mine for spares if you want Mine is just a wheel chock anyway, as I removed all the factory stereo stuff.

There are no "bleed" bolts that I am aware, only drains. Which bolt are you referring to?

What year/mk is the GS? Is it getting caught by the mat in the drivers footwell? A well know issue with the mats.

I'll swap you a working CD player for the coilovers

I assume you mean once the engine is up to full temp? While the thermostat is shut, it will be cold on one side and hot on the other. Only once it has opened at full operating temp, will it be hot on both sides. Hi ,no ,it must be cold,with out the cap ,letting the engine run up to temp I don't mean let it get up to temp before removing the cap (very dangerous thing to do), I mean checking the pipe temps (on both sides of the thermostat) once the engine is up to temp. That is an important step not to leave out for this check otherwise you can think you have issues when you don't.

As you are in Loughborough, I have used West End Motors to good effect on many occasions. They are on the Cumberland Road industrial estate. Charlesworth Motors in Glossop did my head gasket job.

Its all swings and roundabouts as far as "Change Engine" and "Do head Gasket" jobs go. I have just been through the same process (head gasket gone on my GS300) and weighed up fixing the car, getting another one and scrapping mine etc etc. In the end, you can stick a second hand engine in and the head gasket goes 1000 miles later and you have the whole expense again. I opted to get her fixed in the end. Cost £600 all in for mine so might be a similar price for the IS - still a 6 cylinder straight six - from an independent garage (lexus quoted £1100'ish). Labour to do an engine swap is still not cheap, so you pays your money and takes your choice.

No reason I can see that they shouldn't work just fine. I have used cambelts by the same manufacturer before.

That would be good mate B)

Looks ok to me. Something a little different to set it aside from other IS's.

I assume you mean once the engine is up to full temp? While the thermostat is shut, it will be cold on one side and hot on the other. Only once it has opened at full operating temp, will it be hot on both sides.

The wheels look top dollar mate. Maybe do a workshop tutorial on the gear and pastes?

Drop links seem pretty cheap in the US, for the GS, a pair cost something like £30 so I would expect the IS price would be similar. If it were me, I'd grab a set whilst I was there just in case.

Anti-rattle clips missing from rear pads?