TigerFish

Must admit, I'm impressed with that price. Do they do mail order?

I replaced the slide pins (as per this tutorial I did -----> click) on my front calipers a while back. I didn't replace all four with the pins that hold the rubber ring but haven't had any noises from the brakes. As you mention, it does sounds like it could be the extent of corrosion on the caliper mounting bracket that the pins slide into that makes the difference for the rubber ring or not. They are not a cheap part to replace mind you.

Are there any nicks or bends in any of the antenna sections that are causing it to jam? If not, might be worth opening it up too just in case part of the cord has snapped off and is jamming the rewind before it is fully retracted. The tutorial I did here might help ----> click

Isn't the spring tension adjustable on the IS a bit? Seem to recall 3 positions for the tension, maybe it could be turned down a bit if it is too strong.

Looks good mate. What brand and price was the exhaust? Any pics under the car to see the rest of the system?

There is a 15 Amp "CIG" fuse that powers both lighters. If both lighters are off, then that would be the one that is gone. The other tell tale sign is if the clock doesn't come on. The "DOM" fuse supplies the permanent 12V to the clock, the "CIG" fuse powers the display. If the fuse is ok, and the other lighter works, then I would suspect a broken or rusted socket.

Did you say anything to the muppet when you saw him do it? :tsktsk:

Looks good. Is it an entire exhaust system or just those tips that are being welded on?

Cheers for the info. Do the pulleys have a habit of undoing themselves?

No idea really. Not sure if the pulleys (and maybe cams) have to come off for the head to be skimmed. Quite possibly I don't think the Series 1 had VVT-i. My '96 Sport didn't anyway. That is correct, no VVT-i on the Mk1's

Yeah, there is not a lot of slack. Although the wire is clamped to various places on the upper wish bone etc (on the GS, not sure about the IS). You can make more slack, and disconnect it at the inner wing if need be. I guess it is a personal call on whoever is doing the job, I did not need to remove mine to do the top wishbones, and have heard of people having issues with the ABS after the sensor being removed for the job by garages. Undo it, if it comes out easy, then all is good, if it is stuck, I wouldn't try and get it out personally.

It was very odd mate. No idea if it is something that can just happen but never heard of it myself, and it was a first for the RAC man. The head gasket was done on the car recently, which is the only thing that has happened on the top end in that specific area.

Not done a tutorial myself on this, but this IS bottom ball joint procedure is the same as the GS. clicky. Might be worth trying to do it without removing the ABS sensor, they can be a bit fragile.

Not had this happen before. Drove home from work last Friday no problem. Had tea, then gave my son and his GF a lift into town. Car started feeling sluggish as I was going round the ring road. As I came off the ring road and round to the railway station, the car could now barely move. Going out the back of the station, the car now ground to a halt and could only just keep running. It conked out, restarted it, it chugged for a few seconds, and then died again. From that point on, it would crank but not fire up. So I called the RAC out, he initially thought a fuel starvation issue, spreayed his can of stuff into the intake and still no joy. Moved onto ignition system, Spark was reaching the distributor. Needed to now check spark was reaching plugs. Undo the top timing cover to remove the top cover to get to No1 spark plug. Cover comes off and we both look at each other and say at exactly the same time "that don't look right". The left hand cam pulley had come undone and moved forward. The cam cover was the only thing that stopped the pulley (and Belt) coming off!!!! it now has a nice groove worn into the inside of it. The reason the car wouldn't fire up is that the distributor is driven off that cam, which was no longer turning as the cam pulley was just spinning on the cam shaft. Turned the crank by hand, tightened the bolt to pull the cam pulley back on and re-engage with the locating key and hey presto, the car fired straight up and off I went. Of course the RAC guy didn't know it was a non interference engine, so he thought the gods were smiling on me that evening.

Both look very nice B) Not sure about swapping the wheels over myself. With the 10" rears on the back, the Mk2's look great too, but not sure that the narrower rears that you have would look so good.

TTE did a limited edition Mk2 with the Mk1 alloys on. Looked pretty good.

Yes, definately worth selling. GS, Aristo, Supra etc owners are always after them. Prices vary but normally fetch a reasonable amount on ebay.

As patch says, the guage stays where it was when you switched off. I don't think it will adjust to a refill (or a syphon ) until the ignition has switched back on though.

Yup, stevie is correct, JZS147 is the correct one for the Mk1.

Welcome to LOC. What steering issues are you referring to? Patch has picked up pretty much everything I would look for. Wishbones and bushes are expensive to sort. The bottom trailing arms on the front reguire the front subframe to be unbolted and dropped (with engine being supported) so not a very easy DIY job. the rest are pretty simple given the correct tools, i.e. ball joint splitters, breaker bar etc. On the Mk1 GS, the stereo fascia LCD is not a common issue (I believe it is on the mk2) so there isn't really any need to worry about that one. Check the air con blows cold as issues/leaks can be costly to sort. The Mk1 is not ODB2 compliant so reading the codes from the ECU is a matter fo shorting the pins and counting the flashes. You need to short pins TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic socket.

Welcome to LOC. I would try the simple stuff for the wobble first and get your wheel balancing checked. Worth checking ebay for sellers breaking GS's, I've has some stuff from them and also the online breaker network sites.

If anyone has a spare lap strap seat belt for a Mk1 GS, please let me know. Must be the centre lapstrap. Cheers

I would imagine that the 12v feed on the thin wire is normally via the head unit, so if the head unit is removed, the power no longer comes from there. i.e. to turn the AE amp on only when the stereo is on. You therefore need to supply a new one either from the Electric aerial connection on your new head unit, or an alternative switched source.

There should be three wires on the factory harness to do with the antenna. Pins 3, 4 and 5 going out of the head unit. Colours should be white with red tracer, white with light blue tracer and a black (possibly with white tracer). Can't remember specifically which is which, but one controls up and down, the others control the length, based on frequency that stereo is tuned into. You would just have to pick the combo that puts it to full extension as your new head unit is unlikely to beb able to switch the length. At a guess, you should connect your blue wire to the on pin 5 (black wire). You might need to also connect it to the wire on pin 3 too, to get the full extension. All at your own risk of course