TigerFish

The fogs are dual filament? I thought they were single. You would have to install dual filement holders and connect the low watt side to a permanent supply (to be on all the time regardless of light switch position). The high wattage filement should still function as normal fogs.

Yeah, a tad annoying. Overall, I have to say I've been quite impressed with it and do actually find it a decent enough piece of kit. Not sure I put it on a pedestal above the rest, but it works well enough and does a decent job.

Does anyone know of any apps that will allow dialup networking (DUN) to work to tide me over until the updates come out? I used to use my previous phone to do the "Traffic plus" update services on my TomTom. I was a bit p****d off to find I could no longer do it when I got the iphone. Makes the TomTom completely useless on a day to day level.

The rear GS300 Sport wheels are very wide, aren't they ? I wonder if they'd be too wide. Depends. I would imagine the optional 10" wide rears on the Mk1 Sport would be too wide, the standard "Sport" rears are 8½", the same as the fronts. Not sure if they are too wide or not.

I'm planning on tackling this little chore at the weekend, when I've done it in the past I've either used an FM modulator which splices into the radio antenna connection or if the car has a sepreate amplifier unit ( as I think the GS300 does) it should have a pair of std audio connections so a simple switch box can be used to splice into the ampl input line. any thoughts? Where is the amp located anyway? Matt The amp is located in a bracket underneath the CD changer unit in the boot. There are no standard connectors on the amp, just the factory connectors which are not RCA's or anything like that. You could splice into the "line ins" from the head unit I guess, although you will probably be bypassing the volume controlling of the head unit then. From what I remember, the cd changer feed goes to the head unit first, and then back to the amp, so maybe it would be better to ditch the changer signal and see if you can splice into that on its way to the head unit (assuming it is a line level signal of course).

Sounds like it is designed to wire into standard ISO connectors, Lexus/Toyota don't use them. Bluetooth hands free tends to work the same (my parrot ck3100 uses ISO conenctors). I replaced the lexus plugs with ISO plugs when I swapped out the head unit on mine so the parrot kit plugged straight in. I guess something like the griffin FM modulator that plugs into the cigarete lighter would be the simplest solution.

I'd agree with that. With items such as these, it really does come down to being worth what you are prepared to pay. If you want it bad, you will pay what it takes to get it, if you are not bothered, you will wait for the next one and try again.

Ouch. Must admit, I've had much more trouble with my Lex in 2 years and 60,000 miles than I had in 8 years and 210,000 miles in the BMW E36 325 Coupe I had before.

What exactly do you need to know mate? mk1 wiring details?

I've been trying to get my head around this, and it's making my brain hurt ! I think that the ratio refers to the number of propshaft revolutions which are then converted to wheel revolutions - e.g. with a 4.5 final drive the propshaft is turned by the engine/gearbox 4.5 times to make the wheels revolve once. So with a higher-numbered final drive you get a lower top speed, because obviously the engine can only do so many revs and the higher ratio means you turn the wheels less times, hence lower top speed. It seems that conversely though you'd get better acceleration to trade off against that loss in top speed. I actually can't get my head around how you get better acceleration, though I'm sure there must be a very simple explanation ! :duh: Just to make you think about it even more, you could change your tyre aspect ratio to compensate

No probs.

Yup, I know what you mean. Lexus quoted £1100 for a head gasket job on my Mk1 with 200,000 on the clock, also £940 for the rear crank oil seal last year. Shop around a bit, in the end the head gasket job cost me £600 all in, and the oil seal £314 all in. A pretty big saving, albeit still a lot of cash on an old car.

Labour will be knocking on the door of £800 + VAT I expect. Parts probably £600'ish + VAT on top at a guess.

Final drive would also effect your speedo reading if the speedo pick up is on the gearbox.

Nice job B)

I would've thought going round corners would set it off all the time if they worked that way, but I could be wrong.

It shouldn't, but there were points in the system in my old place where the rads were installed in "series" rather than in Parallel. Might be worth banging in a straight piece of pipe where the old rad was just to see if it starts to work again. If that is all that is needed, could save on an expensive power flush.

Standard as far as I know.

I'd say it was a sticking piston. If you have taken the caliper off, checking the slide pins still move is simple enough. Try greasing the pistons before retracting them to see if it helps. It normally does, but not for long generally. Only a replacement caliper or a refurb kit will do a long term fix on it.

What year is your GS?

When are these new features coming out?

Quite a few places do motors for standard up and over doors for about £150 (might be even less nowadays). Not expensive at all really.

You are meant to grease them using lithium soap base glycol grease.

Get under the car mate and give the exhaust a thump with your hand all the way along. Something should rattle at some point if it is the exhaust or cat and pinning down the location should be easy. Only issues I've had with mine is the heat shields, some of them wrap around the exhaust and can have stones in them or just be loose and rattle. Also check the dampers bolted to the exhaust just before the back boxes (they are two fairly large rubber "chunks" bolted to the exhaust itself), worth checking that the rubber washers have not done a bunk and they are loose.