TigerFish

I can have a look later for the colour code of the wiring to the stereo harness. Are you needing a permanent 12V or a switched 12V? You could hook into the cigarette lighter rather than remove the head unit to get to the stereo wiring.

No probs mate. Lets hope this is the end of your problems.

Not sure there is any point bypassing it mate. The head unit doesn't have the power to drive the speakers so you will hear nothing anyway, unless you are putting an after market head unit in of course.

For the second time? When you say drained, you mean you let the whole lot run out before topping up? Did the brakes bleed correctly? Sounds like you have some big air bubbles in the system.

I contacted the seller and asked him to confirm that they were new units and not reconditioned. He confirmed that they were new. How come? That would be like saying your brake pads are recons if you didn't get Lexus items. Lexus/Toyota thankfully do not have a monopoly (or quite probably the facilities), to manufacture the calipers, so someone else is most likely making them. These would be available to third party suppliers to build, and sell, at a lower cost if they felt the market was large enough. Or even have "copies of" made to build and sell. Unless the item has previously been fitted to a vehicle and then recovered, it would be new, regardless of source.

I'd agree with Kev, greasing the calipers and slide pins is simple enough. I would say that if you find any of the dust boots split, then you need to seriously consider overhauling the caliper, or at the very least replacing the dust boots (on the caliper pistons or on the slide pins). At the end of the day, everyone should know their limits as far as DIY mechanics go, if you aren't confident in what you are doing, the brakes are critical afterall, then replace the caliper rather than get an overhaul kit. Replacing the caliper and bleeding the brakes carries a lot less risk than taking the whole thing apart. Or of course trust it to the professionals.

This seller clicky has confirmed they are NEW units. :winky:

Really ? Items like this one on eBay say "brand new", surely they can't be reconditioned if that's how they're described ? This seller has confirmed that the calipers are new, not reconditioned.

So you only get the pistons, not all the other stuff. So that's very very different from what you get if you order a complete "Cylinder Assembly" from Lexus, which does come with the torque plate (carrier), pistons, dust boots, slide pins etc. If I'm honest, If I read that article without reading this thread, I would expect to get a pair of calipers for a couple of hundred quid. A caliper is a caliper, I have never included a torque plate/mounting bracket as part of a "caliper". He never says you get a "cylinder assembly", so why would he supply one? He is supplying "calipers". Fair enough, the fact the picture shows a torque plate is a matter for debate with the seller. A couple of hundred quid for the "calipers" is a pretty decent price IMO whether new or recon. Especially as you do not need to send your old ones back which free's them up for an overhaul, paint job and resell to recoup some of the cost.

I have an Amp but I am waiting for LOC user Graham Kelly to come and do some swapping of all the spares I have to isolate the problem he is having with his stereo. If the Amp doesn't get taken as a result of those tests, it would be available.

Hi, Give Euro Car Parts a call, I used the Chester branch and had to be picked up of the floor with shock at the best price ever £37.70 including the vat yes £37.70 each, how they can charge £144 on ebay and even more at lexus is beyond me. Interesting that eurocarparts are not doing just euro cars anymore. I would not of thought to call them for a jap motor. I'm well impressed with that price for a top wishbone, that's more a bottom balljoint price.

Some nice bits there, although not a fan of those wheels at all

They are normally listed on ebay, or try a breaker yard if you don't want "new" prices.

Is the 15 Amp "CIG" fuse ok? This is the acc supply to the amp.

I believe the offset is 35 to 50 for the GS's.

Yeah, I know what you mean. Stuck between a rock and a hard place unfortunately. I got my alternator for a decent price via this link http://www.247spares.co.uk, not sure if you ahve tried them or not.

As Stevie says, certainly not a direct fit. You could maybe bastardise it to fit, or maybe butcher it to get yours working, not sure it would be worth the hassle though. Where have you tried so far to get one?

Check the 25A fuse labelled "Rad No. 1" in the engine bay fusebox. This powers the Amp in the boot (located beneath the CD changer). If the Amp is out, you will get no sound, so that fuse is a good point to start.

is the ribbon pushed in far enough before putting the clip back on?

I would expect the black bit to clip onto the white bit. It looks like it is the piece that clamps the ribbon into the socket.

38 Mate, you don't look 38 :o What, more like 58?

Not done it myself yet but I do want to replace my drivers door so may end up doing it.

I had my first done last October. Like you, I wanted one for years. Surprisingly I never got one done whilst I was in the armed forces but got it done when I was 38.

Cheers mate. Yeah, I used the same guy to get all four rear bottom suspension arms. I've got an alternator coming tomorrow for £65 inc VAT and delivery. So not too bad. I'll strip the old one once that "new" one is on and see if a refurb is possible.

Altenator went t*ts up last night and stranded me on the M25 :( Anyone got a spare they want to sell?