TigerFish

Welcome to LOC, got any pics of your GS? A good choice B)

hmmm, that sounds really odd. When you say "its when i put my foot down a bit for the first few seconds", is that with clutch fully released? The clutch is seperate from the clutch hydraulics. There will be a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder bolted onto the bell housing. Bleed in the same way you would the brakes. Having said that, the way you describe the symptoms, it doesn't sound like the hydraulics anymore, but I would still double check it just in case fluid contamination is an issue. If there is a leak, your clutch fluid level will be low, so a pretty easy check. It almost sounds like your engine mounts are shot or something. Maybe the removal of the gearbox to do the clutch settled the mounts but they have now come loose again. Sounds odd. If the clutch isn't slipping, then I can't see the flywheel being the cause of the noise, but I guess anything is possible. If it was doing it before, and then started after, I would expect the clutch people to spot any flywheel damage, but then again, they should've spotted fluid leakage too if it was happening.

Or just go and get some non Toyota stuff and save yourself a few quid.

Sounds like the tyres where "Stretched" to fit, a common practice and not to everyones liking. As far as I am aware, it is not a huge issue, especially if it is only a slight stretch. The pic below is an extreme stretch on an aristo project documented in this thread (clicky), I don't like the look at all, but it will be run that way. Give you an idea of what is done to help with clearance on arches. Without seeing your specific setup, it is probably fine to run with on the 225 tyre.

If the starter motor/solenoid setup is the same on the mk2 as it is on the mk1, I would buy the contact set before taking it off and "refurb" it once it is off. The sets can be bought on ebay for about a tenner I think. Not sure on price from dealer. This sorts the problem most of the time and avoids the cost of a whole unit. See this link for an ebay seller that may be able to help clicky. The link is for a mk1 GS, but the seller says he can do other kits.

In regards to the clutch issue, been thinking about it while I was at lunch (sad bast*rd ). Did the clutch place say whether they had topped up the fluid? As you mention it was making the noise, then the clutch was changed and it wasn't but is now coming back, it does sound to me like you may have a leak in the clutch hydraulics somewhere. If so, check it over quickly because if it is the slave cylinder leaking into the bell housing, it could contaminate the clutch plate and ruin it, meaning you will need another one. If the leak is minor at the moment, it may just trickle round the bell housing and miss the clutch. I would check it out sooner rather than later, a few quid for a seal kit could save hundreds on another clutch if it is a leak.

I would get a garage to read your fault codes which should tell you why the TRC light is flashing. I don't own an IS, but do read most of the IS posts, and it does seem that the TRC light comes on a lot for stuff that isn't always traction control related. Does the "check engine" light come on at all? The rad is a piece of p*ss to change, you should be able to get one for around £100 give or take. I think the rads for a GS are around £100-£120 sometimes cheaper, the IS ones would be the same or very similar. ebay can be a good source for them. FWIW, I have never had any problems using radweld or similar and never had a water pump failure due to it. Never seen it on any car to be honest. There could be some substance to it, but it could just be rad manufacturers wanting to sell rads instead, who knows. Rad weld mustn't be used in the honda v6 engine (as used in Hondas and Rovers), that's the only thing I know of for definate. Might be worth bleeding your clutch hydraulics, just in case you are just crunching through the gears because the clutch is not releasing fully due to air in the system maybe. Does it improve once warmed up, or if you pump the clutch pedal a few times?

Unfortunately that link is for the mk2 which I think is the vvti engine so not the same?? If you can PM me a postal address, I'll stick my PDF on a CD for you and post it. it is 57 meg so too large to email.

Sorry to hear that mate. Hope it gets sorted soon. Looks a lot like pre-ignition to me, was the car pinking at all before hand? No idea how the ignition system works on the IS, I know it is different to the GS, but my GS was pinking seriously badly after my head gasket was done, I checked the timing and it was 23 degrees out. I suspect my plugs/pistons would've gone the same way as yours if I hadn't re-adjusted it.

Sounds like the clips inside the socket are knackered/rusted/stretched. They work by catching on to the rim of the plunger on the lighter. As the lighter warms up the catch expands and releases from the lighter. If they are not all rusty, you could try bending the clip a little (don't use a metal screwdriver as you'll short the socket out and blow the fuses - or take fuse out first). Don't bend too much or they wont release.

There is no such thing as standard coolant. Can you quote the spec details for the Mitsubishi stuff? and Merc stuff? Sounds like Mitsubishi are trying to keep their own (most likely expensive stuff) pushed to its customers. Bit like Lexus guys trying to force the Toyota long life stuff, absolutely no need. As long as you use etholene glycol coolant and not alcohol based (depending which one is meant to be used), then coolant is coolant.

I know of one person who ran 285's and they used to rub, so 275 is the safest bet unless you want to start rolling the arch lip.

I have read this too, but have never been able to get anyone to actually confirm it. I beleive the change happened at some point during production of the mk1, but again I cannot seem to find out when. Have you confirmed yours is definately 4 speed? I'm sure mine changes gear enough times to be 5 (4 gear changes), but to get a definate count of gear changes the car needs to be pushed hard so that multiple changes don't happen at once, so the speed reached kept stopping me getting a solid count.

This tutorial by Patch for the Mk2 GS300 rear discs is virtually identical to the IS --------> clicky

I can't see anything that looks too troublesome, a couple of pipe clamps maybe to avoid too much fluid loss. Having said that, I only have my Mk1 to look at, not a mk2, and they are slightly different.

Maybe this will help with the cats...... clicky or clicky 2

Good work B)

Sounds like you are talking about the power steering cooler. Take a look at this diagram clicky Diagram is for a Mk2 GS, not sure what year yours is though.

Did you sort out your ipod connection mate?

Not bad but I do think some 20's would be much better on a car the size of the LS.

It shouldn't cause any problems. If you look at the other water pipe coming through the bulk head and follow it round, pretty much straight in line with the back end of the engine you will see a black block screwed to a bracket on the bulkhead, with a lever and a cable clipped to it. That is the flow control for the heater. If that is completely closed (when you set the heater to 16... the coldest settting... on your heater controls), there will be no flow through the pipes, including the one you are talking about. Basically, the cabin heater water supply is not part of the engine coolant flow path, just an offshoot from it. So if you cut the heater pipes and capped them off, it would make no difference to the cooling of the engine under normal conditions.

Looking good. I think the de-fog on the boot will improve the rear end a lot.

I would try a fluid change first mate. What colour does the fluid look at the moment? if it is a dark colour, rather than a translucent red colour, it is due a change.

Yup, same place as mine need to get min sorted properly too.

You mean the pipe that you can see in this pic? I'd be surprised if it would cause an overheat if I'm honest. It shouldn't be performing any major function on the cooling system at all, just part of the cabin heating. You could cap both sides off and it shouldn't cause any issues for the engine side of things. infact, if you turn your heater down to cold, it would have no flow anyway.