TigerFish

No, didn't take too long, it was awkward and just needed plenty of persistance and patience :P

They should fit no problem. Only thing I would recommend is to bin the bulbs that come with them and get yourself a set of chromed orange bulbs. Did this with mine as seemed little point getting rid of the orange lense just make them look orange from the bulb.

which lights are lit up? When my alternator packed up, just the altenator light was on to start with. As the voltage got lower the check engine light then came on, followed shortly after by the abs light. Voltage should be in the 14's so does sound like either a dodgy connection or a buggered altenator. Easy enough to change with minimal tools.

I've done hids on mine, 6000k ones and they look and perform fantastically. I did have white led side lights at the front but one started flashing so they got swapped out for normal bulbs and haven't got replacements yet. The white leds do match the colour of the hids much better. No idea on fitting the later wheel and gear knob. Also no idea on the ls400 stereo, but I would not expect any other Lexus units to fit.

No idea on the mk2 side of things, but on a UK mk1 GS, the front indicators are not part of the headlamp, only on imported aristos. Do you mean the front ones? If so, I de-tango'd my Mk1 front indicators and although awkward, it can be done without the need to put anything in the oven. Just use a screwdriver, side cutters and a pair of long nose pliers to break up the orange "cup" and pull it out of the bulb hole. I will be doing the rears at some point, just not got round to it yet so no idea if the lense needs taking off.

Awesome mate. Well done B) Mind you, that altenator looks less than stable on that bracket

When my ecu has been reset on my mk1, this is the most noticable thing if you always drive around with the etc/pwr set to normal. Initially, it will seem more responsive until it learns and generally dulls things down a bit.

I think it looks good. As far as the centres go, I think I would need to see them in the flesh to decide if it looked good, or just looked like someone had got the wrong coloured ones

There are none mate. There are drain plugs, no bleed points though. Basic steps are Fill coolant through rad cap replace rad cap fill expansion tank to max level start engine Heater on highest temp run car at 2000 rpm 'til hot allow to fully cool top up expansion tank to max level

I'm with norlec and Dave, it is a tensioner that takes up the slack so unless the tensioner has gone pear shaped, you would need to change the belt.

If the fuse is ok, also have a look in the socket at the contact in the bottom (the +ve feed) to see what state it is in, they seem to rust quite well for some reason if the GS is anything to go by.

That is what was confusing me earlier in the thread. They could not purchase as Individuals (or a group of individuals) if they have to be VAT registered to make the purchase. Therefore there is no choice but to set up a company to make the purchase.

Read the bottle, make your choice :) Everyone wants to stop corrosion, keep seals in good condition, this is not new technology from Toyota :P

Of course mate. It is up to each and every one of us to do what we are comfortable with. IMO, it is important to give people the choice however, as I see a lot of threads on this subject that say to all intents and purposes "do not use anything other than Toyota (Lexus) coolant". Even the owners manual says use an "ethylene-glycol" based coolant, not use "Toyota ethylene-glycol" coolant. The Toyota stuff is nothing special, so if you do not live near a toyota or lexus dealership, don't bust a gut trying to get it, just go to halfords (or any other motor factors) and buy whichever "Ethyene-glycol" antifreeze you fancy :)

I agree mate, however it seems that most want to pay over the odds for Toyota stuff But that stuff linked is a lot more expensive than the Toyota coolant ! I didn't look at the link tbh mate, just the principle I was agreeing with. I believe the Toyota stuff is premixed also, so remember that buying 5 litres of Toyota stuff is actually more like 2 to 3 litres antifreeze, and a load of water. So you need to factor that into the costing if buying "neat" antifreeze elsewhere.

No ide aon the door panel for the mk2, but in general they don't vary that much between models, or makes even. On the Mk1, there are a few screws that help around the grab handle area for extra strength, and a few round the pocket on the door I seem to remember, I also seem to remember a screw in the demist hole for the air feed to the side glass, the rest of it is held in place by push in clips. You just have to pull the panel away (or use a large flat "blade" to prise them gently) and they will "pop" out. Last time I did mine, no clips broke, but be careful to try and avoid any breakages. Once you have released all of the clips, lift the panel up to unhook the lip at the top of the door panel (by the window glass). It should be similar for the mk2. Oh, nearly forgot, you will have to disconnect the electrics (window switches ect) once the panel is loose if you want to remove it from the car completely. Luckily for the mk1, there is no need to remove the panel to do the mirror, not the case for the mk2 unfortunately.

Spot on mate the green coolant is for uk built vehicles such as the Carina E's and Avensis Pink is used on cars from 2003/4 onwards please check the ams oil product. great one http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/antifr...ne_coolant.html dont just get the oem type get the performance type or the quality product.. I agree mate, however it seems that most want to pay over the odds for Toyota stuff

just done a couple of pics using spare parts I have in the garage. The 1st pic is showing where the two parts clip together. 2nd pic is how the top hooks on. The white part is the plate that is connected to the motors normally so is fixed inside the mirror housing. Hope that helps.

Which guide did you use? On the Mk1, to get the glass off I pushed to top in as far as it would go, so that I could get a screwdriver in via the bottom edge. If you peer inside the gap, you can see a white plate, clipped to the black back of the mirror glass. You need to get a screwdriver in between those two parts and pry the clips free (one on either end of the white plate). The top of the mirror hooks on, so do not try and pry it from the top. That is assuming the mk2 is the same/similar to a mk1.

Are you in a position to work for them for two years? I'm assuming there must be a catch to make up for the "free" training. What salary are they offering while you do the two years?

remember the reason they say don't mix them is merely because if you have the pink stuff in, and you add red, it will no longer last 10 years. It will only last the length for red. Likewise, if you have red in, there is no point adding the expensive 10 year stuff as the red would counteract that (unless you flush the system and start fresh).

I'm getting a bit confused following this thread now. If this is the case, you can't buy as an individual anyway??

Very nice B)

If they are 10mm lower than the Sport springs, they would be pretty hard to live with I would expect on a day to day basis. Being such a long car, it is very easy to get "beached" on speed humps, kerbs etc even on the Sport height. No idea on the GMax springs, never saw them when I was looking, but I went for the RS*R Super Down springs for mine, very happy with them. They were nowhere near as cheap, and took a long time by boat from Japan, but still very happy.

What doesn't work? No sound? CD player not responding? Not tuning into FM channels? Does it tune to LW or AM Radio? Does the tape deck work?