TigerFish

that's true.

No-one where you are that will do it for you in a booth? Used to get our paint guys doing cars all the time for a few quid when I was still in.

Welcome to LOC. Good choice of motor B)

Can't go wrong with matt black Just bought a pair of rear ARB drop links myself, did you get yours from ebay? Seem to be a few "wear and tear" parts coming up cheap on ebay these days. Drop links, tie-rods, tie-rod ends, top arms, bottom arms, bottom balljoints. Camskill have some good prices going at the moment, just got 2 x 275/35 18 Falken FK452's for £123 each, not bad at all. They have same sized dunlops for £108 but never used them so decided to go for tyres I'd had and used before.

tie-rod ends (and infact the whole tie-rod) seem to be cheap as chips on ebay at the moment per pair.

I thought xenons ran cooler than standard filament bulbs?

Nice motor B)

Toyodiy.com is one

It is in the bell housing. Essentially where the clutch would be on a manual car. It is bolted to the flywheel and the gearbox input shaft slots into it. Wouldn't normally need changing unless it is broken, what problems do you have?

My first drive was from Leeds back to RAF Scampton near Lincoln after picking up a Mk5 Cortina from the car auctions in Leeds. Won it on the Tuesday I think it was, and picked it up on the Saturday. Was a tad nervous, especially as it involved some motorway driving but the buzz of driving my own car (even if it was only a Cortina) was immense.

Mk1 isn't OBDII compliant so no code reader available unless you get the required one from Lexus/Toyota at huge expense. The codes can be read counting the flashes on the check engine light. Can't remember the pins that need to be shorted in the diagnostic socket off the top of my head but can find out later if you need it.

wheres that then ?? and what does it do Not terribly exciting I'm afraid and you've probably found it without realising. On the wiper stalk is a rotary stictch which alters the parking height of the wipers. The idea being that in winter you set them to park higher so that they will be defrosted on the part of the widscreen hit by the demisters inside. On the lower level, they are under the bonnet line and would take longer to thaw out.

I sent all my contacts from two nokias to my parrot car kit, all in one go.

Welcome. Also check in "My Controls" ----> "Board Settings" and make sure the option to show images in posts is set to "Yes". The "My Controls" link is located just below the main site banner at the top of this page.

How did it go mate, did you get them transferred?

As a bit of a comforter, the MK1 GS engine is a non-interference engine so if the belt snaps, no internal damage will occur. Just plonk on a new belt (and tensioner) and off you go. So in theory, you could just keep going until it pings.

One other thing to check quickly before condemning the diff is the resonators on the exhaust. If you look under the car pretty much in line with the back axle, there are two big rubber weights bolted to the exhaust (one one each pipe). If they come loose or perish, they make a really annoying noise almost like a propellor plane noise. Hard to describe exactly, but a propellor plane noise is as good a description as I can think of. Mine have done it before and had to be retightened as the rub washer on the mount had broken up and fell off. At the moment on one of mine, the rubber weight part is starting to come away and the noise has started again. Part no is 17581-46020 Damper, Exhaust Pipe.

What makes you think it is over heating? Is the temp guage reading fine? Lights flashing on and steering assistance fluctuating sounds like a slipping fan/alternator/auxilary belt to me. Hi, It doesn't show as over heating but it does over heat, also today the battery was flat would the above cause this? Thanks. Les If the fan belt is slipping enough to never charge the battery it will go flat eventually. Or if the altenator is not working properly the same will apply. If the altenator light is on almost permanently, it will most certainly not be charging. having said that, the altenator failing would not effect the power steering so the belt still looks favourite. The tensioner for the belt is spring loaded, so is not adjustable as such, if the belt has stretched too much, it may not be able to take up any more slack. You say it isn't showing as overheating, how do you know it is over heating? Is the coolant full? If the fan belt is slipping or is broken, then the water pump will not be turning and the coolant won't be circulating. If this is the case, I would refrain from driving the car until the belt is sorted. Continued overheating may lead to head gasket failure, which is an expensive repair. I know its over heating because it boils, but temp gauge shows normal.... also how would i know if the tensioner needs replacing? thanks for the help. As far as the tensioner goes, I guess all you can do is check that a) it is still spring loaded and has not seized in a set position, b ) that the has not lost its "spring" and gone floppy so to speak, and c) check it still spins ok. If it is fine on all counts I can't see a reason to change it. The spring in it is pretty strong, so if you can easily move the tensioner pulley, then it may not be tensioning very well. It took quite a lot of effort to move mine back against the spring to get the belt off when I changed my altenator. I had the altenator checked and need a new one so i am going to replace that and drive belt and am going to keep my fingers crossed that this will cure my problems. Thanks for all your advice you hae been very helpful. Les. Let us know how you get on mate. If it were me, I would do the belt first just because of your other symptoms, then do the altenator if there are still problems. Good luck.

Looks good B)

What makes you think it is over heating? Is the temp guage reading fine? Lights flashing on and steering assistance fluctuating sounds like a slipping fan/alternator/auxilary belt to me. Hi, It doesn't show as over heating but it does over heat, also today the battery was flat would the above cause this? Thanks. Les If the fan belt is slipping enough to never charge the battery it will go flat eventually. Or if the altenator is not working properly the same will apply. If the altenator light is on almost permanently, it will most certainly not be charging. having said that, the altenator failing would not effect the power steering so the belt still looks favourite. The tensioner for the belt is spring loaded, so is not adjustable as such, if the belt has stretched too much, it may not be able to take up any more slack. You say it isn't showing as overheating, how do you know it is over heating? Is the coolant full? If the fan belt is slipping or is broken, then the water pump will not be turning and the coolant won't be circulating. If this is the case, I would refrain from driving the car until the belt is sorted. Continued overheating may lead to head gasket failure, which is an expensive repair. I know its over heating because it boils, but temp gauge shows normal.... also how would i know if the tensioner needs replacing? thanks for the help. As far as the tensioner goes, I guess all you can do is check that a) it is still spring loaded and has not seized in a set position, b ) that the has not lost its "spring" and gone floppy so to speak, and c) check it still spins ok. If it is fine on all counts I can't see a reason to change it. The spring in it is pretty strong, so if you can easily move the tensioner pulley, then it may not be tensioning very well. It took quite a lot of effort to move mine back against the spring to get the belt off when I changed my altenator.

Did you cure the warning light?

Is the play definately in the rack? There are quite a few balljoints on the suspension, and bushes, which if worn can cause these kinds of issues. On my Mk1, upper suspension arms and buttom suspension arms have lead to similar noises and movements.

on the mk1 GS's, the flow control valve for the heater matrix is located just above the rear end of the engine on the bulk head of the engine bay. There is a cable that connects to it with a clip. If that cable is unclipped or incorrectly adjusted, the heater behaves as you describe. i.e. it cannot close the valve fully, or cannot open the valve fully, depending on which way it is incorrectly adjusted. Is there a similar item on the later GS's?

What makes you think it is over heating? Is the temp guage reading fine? Lights flashing on and steering assistance fluctuating sounds like a slipping fan/alternator/auxilary belt to me. Hi, It doesn't show as over heating but it does over heat, also today the battery was flat would the above cause this? Thanks. Les If the fan belt is slipping enough to never charge the battery it will go flat eventually. Or if the altenator is not working properly the same will apply. If the altenator light is on almost permanently, it will most certainly not be charging. having said that, the altenator failing would not effect the power steering so the belt still looks favourite. The tensioner for the belt is spring loaded, so is not adjustable as such, if the belt has stretched too much, it may not be able to take up any more slack. You say it isn't showing as overheating, how do you know it is over heating? Is the coolant full? If the fan belt is slipping or is broken, then the water pump will not be turning and the coolant won't be circulating. If this is the case, I would refrain from driving the car until the belt is sorted. Continued overheating may lead to head gasket failure, which is an expensive repair.

If you select all contacts in your contact list on the nokia, and then send them via bluetooth to your car, it should work. They won't sync automatically, but it should send them all. You can then add them individually afterwards for any extra ones you add to the nokia contacts.