TigerFish

I would've thought so. Looking through the mk2 owners manual I can't find any mention of security on the radio at all, so I assume it must be written on a suppliment or something. Although, on the trouble shooting for the audio system, it says that SEC will appear in the LCD and dissapear after 1 second when you switch the stereo on during normal operation. If SEC doesn't appear for 1 second, there is no code. If you never saw that come up when your LCD display was working, then you should be able to assume that it doesn't have a code set on your own head unit. Using the wiring diagrams I gave above, the hifi shop you took the stuff to should be able to at least power up the replacement headunit to see if the newer headunit asks for a code in the first place. If not, there is no code to clear and you should be able to save yourself a few quid. The same test should prove the LCD is working also. If you were nearer me, I would power it up for you (or you could do it yourself using the diagrams).

Yeah, I think you'll be barking up a very difficult tree if they want the actual radio wiring diagram. Obviously the pins on the connectors are identified on the diagrams, but thats it. Do you now have two head units? Your original broken one and a second one that don't work either? YES i have 2 mine dos work fine but LCD is half missing, the secondhand one I have got which came out of a 3 year younger car I was told LCD is working but they didnt have code? I have just put phone down from LEXUS and I cant find the girl who I spoke to who gave me a price of 45. this is what they are saying the radios do not have codes in if they do its the last 4 digits of chassis no so i back to to where i started. LEXUS are saying if it needs to be recoded they send them away and are charged 65 just for looking not recodeing Have you tried powering up the new one to confirm it needs a code? No idea how they work on the mk2's, but on the mk1 it flashes up with SEC when initially turned on to indicate there is a code set. That way you know if you take the battery off, it will need entering. They could just be assuming it has one set all the time?? Or, can you swap the LCD over yourself?

Yeah, I think you'll be barking up a very difficult tree if they want the actual radio wiring diagram. Obviously the pins on the connectors are identified on the diagrams, but thats it. Do you now have two head units? Your original broken one and a second one that don't work either?

Do these help? not sure tigerfish, are these for mk 1 or mk 2 Mk2

Any news?

No worries mate. It annoys me that shops over here will advertise them and not make it VERY clear they are for LHD. I've yet to find anywhere that has RHD ones, even UK shops and ebay sellers. Someone sent me a link to an ebay listing, but the guy who is listing seems unhelpful in telling me one way or another. Not that I need one as I have a Toyota fascia and they look more OEM to match the rest of the console, but still useful for others if someone had them.

If you do decide to break it yourself, I would be interested in some bits and bobs ;)

Do these help?

You only need to post once for each question mate ;) Can't help specifically, but maybe this diagram helps?? Rear Drum and Shoe parts Diagram

Well, I do admire the persons enginuity with that drop link.

What was the reason? I have found that ertain arms don't allow correct fitment of the nut, IE you can't do the nut up tight enough. If you look at the nut on the ground just turn the wheel back and forth and you'll see the nut miving on the ball joint. If it does it's not suppose to move at all hence why you get the play(creek). I've found that you can jack the car up and then jack the lower arm up to compress the suspension to make the arm level as the height will then be under load and at roughly the correct ride height level. Once you've done this then tighen up the nut fully. I found today that there is a little gap between the rubber and the arm once you do this than before. Tighen the gap and hopefully this should take up the slack. A breaker bar is a good choice if not do the same and use a high torque gun from a garage. Cheers for that. Usefull bit of info for LS owners. I found the same on the GS with the bolts, only requires a fraction, but just gives enough extra clearance if you need it.

Read my posts, I never said you expected anything for **** all, but you would've got it for that, as that is how I am. Ask others who I have helped or given stuff to, or spent my time doing tutorials on here for, or taken my own working car to pieces so that I can help someone else take theirs apart or put it back together. I also promised you nothing, in my earlier reply, I said the 11th should be fine, i never said it is fine. As you heard nothing from me, one could read that it wasn't fine, a member of my family could've died, I could've died, or as I have already said, I had other things going on and had forgotten (oops, I'm not perfect, I'll put caveats on any future offers). You are absolutely correct, a PM may or may not have helped depending on the circumstances, but in this case, it would've helped. You wading in sobbing that everyone has let you down even though you have had to do nothing, so have lost nothing, and don't know anyones circumstances, has done nothing other than withdraw any offer of help from me. Mat may react differently, but in all honesty now, I hope not. You clearly had no interest in trying to put yourself out, unlike Mat or myself, as Buckinghamshire is hardly the other side of the world from me, regardless of where you are in Buckinghamshire. So big of you to accept someones help aslong as you are passing by their doorstep, heaven forbid you should drive your miserable ar$e somewhere just to sort it out. <<Tony W, first and only person to be added to my ignore list>>

If they are anything like other wheel bearings I have looked at, you will need a hydraulic press and an assortment of different sized rings to get the old one out and the new on in. Other than that, the only other cost saver would be to remove the whole hub assembly and take that along to a garage to change the bearing over.

I believe so yes. Would you be breaking it yourself?

If you mean mk1 GS300 Sport wheels

Sounds like an area that could do with a dab of waterproof grease every now and again.

What are you talking about? So if I had remembered, and you had driven down here, and had my autochanger for the grand cost of ****-all, you would've had a strop with me? So I was on a non-starter it would seem, remember and get an ungrateful ***** have a go, or make a mistake and have an ungrateful ***** have a go. At the end of the day, so far it has cost you ****-all, we could've re-arranged, the job would've been a good un and it still would've cost you ****-all bar a bit of petrol. As it is now, you've got ****-all. Monster Mat is in the process of repatriation to the uk after serving abroad, so he has something more to concentrate on than your bloody autochanger. I was trying to sort out university placements for my daughter so had other things on my mind. If you can't be arsed to give me a gentle prod when you heard nothing from me, you deserve ****-all like you have ended up with. For what it is worth, I never promised anything, I was offering some help. If you had turned up and I wasn't in, then fair play to have a strop. As you couldn't even make it to your keyboard to send a gentle reminder, you have nothing too much to grumble about.

The chances are, if the mod is not declared and a claim made where there was no other persons or vehicles involved, the insurance would sort it out but would not cover any costs against the modification(s) if they were damaged. Which depending what the said mod(s) are, may make the car unusable if not repaired or replaced. But, as I'm not an insurance person, that is just an educated guess.

What fuses have you checked? Sounds unlikely that the whole centre console would die as I don't think back in that year everything was combined into a single touch screen or anything (I could be wrong) I would suspect a fuse first. Maybe the "dome" fuse in the drivers footwell. Also the "cig" fuse may controls ome other functions. I would check first though before splashing cash on replacement satnavs etc.

Some of us do have a life outside of this place and can honestly say I forgot all about it. Another PM from you you would've reminded me, and we could've sorted it. You can go whistle for any further help, I have no time for some stroppy a-hole with that attitude.

That would probably work although the concealment afterwards might be tricky, worth a try though.

I believe that is correct, but you could try swapping them over to see if you then get the desired result. Are you sure you haven't tapped off the clock for the illumination feed to the ISO connector but connected it to the remote power out of the stereo instead, or maybe the antenna feed of the stereo?

The door and trim panels are different on the mk1, it isn't the rubber seal that is the problem. There is a two-part metal trim on the outside of the door. If the two parts break apart (they are spot welded together), they seperate and no longer clamp the seal and window glass tightly together, thus allowing an air leak. The trim sticks out proud from the door. If you can clamp the trim back to the door you might get round it, but nothing I tried would do it, especially if the trim has been bent by someone trying to break into the car (like they did on mine). Nothing will hold tight enough against the tension of this metal trim/frame.

Glad you are getting it sorted, no point having your pants pulled down by the dealer for nothing.

That link isn't for a mk1 though, nearly the same but this tutorial I did is for the mk1.... clicky