TigerFish

On my GS, one click of the button locks the door, a second click shortly after disables the internal movement sensors with resulting extra flashes of the indicators. Maybe it is the same one your LS?

The one on my E36 325 BMW worked fanstastically. For me personally, If I know I have a 50 mile trip to do, it is handy to know if I have enough fuel to make it or if I need to refuel first. I prefer to put as much fuel in at each fill up, as I fill up 3 times a week as it is, and get fed up of standing on garage forecourts. The orange light on my GS comes on when there is probably around 4 gallons left, but that doesn't stop the paranoia setting in that I am about to run out any second.

Looking at the wiring diagrams (albeit for yank versions but hopefully should be pretty close), if the mirrors are working, then the main fuse and the relay should be working. The mirrors have their own 10 amp fuse (MIR-HTR), but the power feed for that fuse is via the 40 amp DEFOG fuse and the defogger relay. If any of the element wires are broken, then most or part of the rear screen heater should still work, so it shouldn't be that unless somehow every one is broken. So it would tend to suggest wiring to the heated rear screen, or the noise filter just before the heated rear screen, or the connections onto the rear screen. Without taking panels off in my car, I can't see what this filter looks like, or exactly where it is located, but I would assume it will be almost directly by the positive side of the screen heater, or even on the heater itself. I think all you can do is trace the wiring with a multimeter and see where your 12 volts disappears. Checking either side of the screen and its connectors would be the easiest place to start I would think.

why wide tyres are worse than narrow? I believe I have seen somewhere that the contact surface area is the same in both occasions. "Imagine driving on to a glass road and looking up underneath your tyres. This is the example contact patch (in red) for the situation I explained above. The narrower tyre has a longer, thinner contact patch. The fatter tyre has a shorter, wider contact patch, but the area is the same on both." Sourced from http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg2.html Hence why wider tyres are better for cornering, you have a wider contact patch in the sideways direction. Wider is worse in snow as the weight is spread width ways and therefore less stable in a straight ahead direction and more prone to slide. The thinner tyre has a longer contact patch in the direction you actually want to go in.

Which bulbs?

Any particular reason why? I have to say I have used mostly supermarket fuels for years, as they are generally cheaper. In the last ten years, I have covered over 350,000 miles, and can't attribute any issues to cheap fuel.

I'm assuming they can't all be bad. I see more 220D's on the roads than the 250's. Are the 220D sales figures higher or is just around this area they out number their petrol counterparts?

If you have floor mats in the front, it was a common problem where the throttle pedal catches under the edge of the mat. Pull the mat back a bit (or remove) and see if the problem clears. If it does, get some clips to secure the mat further back in the footwell.

There is a fuse link in the base of the socket which may have blown on yours. You have to take the whole socket out to see/check it. Once the lighter unit is out, undo the nut underneath the bottom of the socket and you will see a double washer with an insulating disc in between, and a connecting wire between the two washers which is the fuse link. When mine went, I just took the insulating disc out and bolted it back together. Do this at your own risk.... no warranties given or implied... lol.

Part numbers are different for Mk1 and Mk2, but no idea if that means they won't fit. Maybe try contacting the seller on ebay and see if he can get Mk2 ones.

There is a fuse link in the base of the socket too. You have to take the whole socket out to see/check it. Once the lighter unit is out, undo the nut underneath the bottom of the socket and you will see a double washer with an insulating disc in between, and a connecting wire between the two washers which is the fuse link. When mine went, I just took the insulating disc out and bolted it back together. Do this at your own risk.... no warranties given or implied... lol.

I have dealt with this guy on ebay a few times for track rod ends, track rods and ARB drop links for the mk1 GS. Delivery has always been quick (from the far East) with tracking. A very good seller. I asked him a couple of months ago if he could find bottom ball joints to which he replied he would try. Anyways, he has come up with some, £50 for a pair delivered. Not bad at all. If anyone else is interested, see this ebay item for details. Item Number: 320451467858 p.s. I am not connected to this seller in anyway, just a satisfied customer.

That's where I fitted mine on my Mk1 GS. Using one of the bottom headlamp mount bolts to put the ballast bracket onto. All nicely tucked away out of sight in the bumper.

If it has just been changed, then it is more than likely that the cable has not been clipped on and adjusted correctly.

Check the water control valve on the bulkhead in the engine bay. You will see it almost inline with the engine, with a pipe going in the bottom and out the side. There is a cable clipped to it. If the cable is not clipped on, or is incorrectly aligned, you will get no hot water through the matrix. You can test by unclipping the operating cable and moving the armature by hand to see if the porblem rectifies itself. Also check that the cable moves when you adjust the temp on the control unit.

I would think the procedure would be very similar to the GS, see this document for the GS procedure clicky

Nice B)

No idea if the filter is from any other Toyotas/Lexus, but would assume it would match atleast some of the normally aspirated supra's. Draining the oil is simple enough. Getting to the oil filter is a real pain though. Not much room to work in. I would recommend getting the oil up to temp for the drain, drain it, and then leave the car to fully cool again. Then work at getting the filter off when there is no danger of burning your arms. No matter what I do, there is always some oil spillage down the side of the engine when the filter is removed, not sure if there is some magic trick to prevent this or not. Nothing complicated to it, just very restricted space. In fact, the filter is such a nuisance, that I keep looking into remote filter kits to relocate it. Just not got round to sorting a kit out yet.

Not sure there is a huge amount of choice other than those you've just mentioned. Check out this thread regarding a Mk2 cat-back system as the makers, Cobra, may do a mk1 system. clicky

Probably worth getting back and breaking for spares I would say.

The masts are available on ebay (or Lexus/Toyota at a higher cost). See my tutorial for removing the antenna unit to remove a broken cord clicky Mine is a mk1 GS, but the mk2 is similar.

IME, Lexus will not fit parts sourced elsewhere, because they cannot warrant the whole job they say. If you can hold a spanner, you could change the discs and pads yourself, a very easy job indeed. See this tutorial I did so that you can weigh up what you are paying for when Lexus quote you, could be a bit of an eye opener. Clicky

Yup, quite annoying.

For second hand, you occasionally see them on ebay. For new, obviously Lexus would be the place.

Mine is a '96 so I assume not late enough? Although to be fair, I've no idea where the ECU is, let alone getting the reference off it.